Where to eat in Georgia. Where to eat in Tbilisi - and be happy as an elephant

Cafes and restaurants in Tbilisi are an integral part of the atmosphere of the cozy Georgian capital. In the new post - a list of places where to eat tasty and inexpensive in Tbilisi. Or expensive, but still delicious :)

When you look into the courtyards of the old city, climb the Narikala fortress and take a walk around the others, you will definitely get hungry, then our small guide to delicious places in the city will come to the rescue.

Georgian cuisine is one of the reasons why you should come to Georgia. We gained a few kilograms upon our return, and I wrote about the main national dishes in.

Basically, Georgian food is quite hearty, sometimes spicy, and the most famous dishes are khinkali, khachapuri, kharcho, lobio, tkemali sauce…

Here's what you need to know:

• In all Georgian cafes and restaurants, we were billed and added a mandatory 10% service fee to it. Tbilisi cafes are no exception.
• The quality and taste of food does not depend on the "coolness" of the restaurant and its appearance.
• Prices in cafes in Tbilisi are not much different from other cities in Georgia, at least tourist ones. There are many establishments with prices above average, but finding a budget option is not a problem.

1. Dukhan "Racha"

Entrance to the dukhan "Racha"

A cult place and at the same time quite authentic. It is located in the basement with brick walls, a showcase and stern aunts, as if transported by a time machine from the Soviet Union. This is a traditional place - this was the look of many Tbilisi cafes. Quite tasty, but without frills, but located in the very center. The prices are quite low.

Address: intersection of Lermontov and Dadiani streets

The waters of Lagidze are, one might say, a feature of Tbilisi, a place with amazing lemonades of all tastes and delicious khachapuri. Especially cool chocolate lemonade ;-)

Address: on the territory of the temple of Tsminda Sameba

3. Chain of restaurants "Machakhela"

This is a popular chain of restaurants in Tbilisi (about 8-9 in the city) with air conditioning and wi-fi. The main thing here is primarily Adjarian cuisine, so you must try Adjarian khachapuri here if you are not going to Batumi (there is the most delicious in our opinion). One of the central restaurants of this chain is located just on the Maidan opposite the Metekhi bridge and the rock. Prices are above average.

4. "Samikitno"

Restaurants of the same owners as Machakhela. Large selection and average prices, a big plus that is located in the center. Just after seeing the magnificent ones, you can drop by.

Address: st. Tumaniani, 23

5. Khinkalnaya "At Velyaminov"

In the khinkal room at Velyaminov

One of the oldest khinkali in Tbilisi, here you can try khinkali, take 5-6 things to start with. By the way, you need to eat them correctly like this: bite off a piece of dough from the edge, drink the broth, and only then eat up. Leave the top piece of dough on the plate ;-) The interior is somewhat reminiscent of the Racha dukhan.

Address: st. Dadiani, 8

6. "Shemoikhede Genatsvale"

The name translates as "Come in, dear" - also a small chain of restaurants in the capital of Georgia. And here it is also recommended to try khinkali.

7. "Zahar Zaharich"

A large restaurant not far from the Dry Bridge (there is also an antique market there). There are several types of khinkali, shish kebab, kharcho, khachapuri and other dishes to choose from. Moderate prices.

Address: Wright Bank, 3

8. "Maspindzelo"

A modern restaurant near the Sulfur Baths, a good wine list, the locals themselves go here. Plus, it's open 24/7. Prices are above average.

Address: st. Gorgasali, 7

9. Khinkali House

The institution is located on Rustaveli Avenue near the metro station of the same name. Simple interior and low prices, fast service.

Address: st. Rustaveli, 37

10. Cheburechnaya on Abanotubani

If you decide to have a bite to eat something cheap and cheerful, run into this cheburek. Simple environment but very tasty. Next to the sulfur baths.

Address: st. Grishashvili, 8

11. "Warszawa"

A small bar with a counter outside, very popular with Poles. which is logical ;-) and other Europeans. All drinks are 2 GEL, and food is 5 GEL.

Address: st. Pushkin, 19

12. "PurPur"

A very popular and cozy place, with a cute interior and vintage stuff, located on three floors in old Tbilisi. Large selection of wines, live music, expensive.

Address: st. Abo Tbileli, 1

These are far from all the restaurants in Tbilisi where you can eat deliciously. Indeed, in Georgia, the cult of food, and cafes are found at every step in the city center. Lots of art and pseudo-art places, hipster coffee shops, health food restaurants and so on.

The cult of food in Georgia is incredibly developed, so 99 out of 100 tourists who come to the capital of this hospitable country are wondering where are the best restaurants in Tbilisi? I will answer honestly: how many people, so many opinions, and for sure almost every traveler who has been here has his own rating of restaurants. Therefore, the list of restaurants in Tbilisi below is my subjective assessment, based primarily on the impressions of the dishes and drinks served. I will also focus on the very best eating establishments, which are most often noted by both ordinary tourists and professional critics.

Briefly about Tbilisi restaurants

To begin with, some important information about Georgian and, in particular, Tbilisi cuisine.

1. The difference in prices in the restaurants of the city is very insignificant and is due to the presence of tourists (if there were no visitors, the dishes would generally cost the same, because in Georgia society is very weakly stratified economically and socially).
2. There are no uniform rules and standards for cooking in Georgia. If you are looking for where to eat in Tbilisi for the first time, then with equal probability you can find both a restaurant with delicious cuisine and a rather mediocre establishment. But most often there are intermediate types with a satisfactory quality of food.
3. You can meet both establishments with a show program and classic restaurants. The first is more expensive.
4. Regional Georgian dishes are best prepared in the regional restaurants of Tbilisi.
5. A 10% service charge (i.e. tip) is almost always included on the check. Sometimes it's 15%, sometimes it's all 20%.

Well, now let's see where to eat deliciously in Tbilisi.

Actually, the restaurant "In the shadow of Metekhi" (Tbilisi) is located not by chance - the area and the rock of Metekhi are really nearby. But on the stunning views of Tbilisi and the neighborhood with the historical center, the bright features of the institution end. The restaurant positions itself as a classic national restaurant, and this is true, but many similar colorful establishments are scattered throughout the capital of Georgia. And to get into the rating of "The Best Restaurants of Tbilisi" one color (and it is, however, enough here - the very thing for tourists who want to get to know the culture of Georgia better) is not enough. The main advantage of the restaurant "In the shadow of Metekhi" is the kitchen. The dishes of the chefs are really delicious, the portions are quite voluminous, but the prices are consistent - here it is a little more expensive than the average in the city (60-70 GEL will be the average bill for a dinner with wine).

Entertainment and evening program in the restaurant are similar and familiar. From 18:00 live music begins to play, which will not stop until the last client. You can also listen to Georgian performances from the glazed veranda, but for those who want to relax without loud music, I would advise you to sit at the farthest end of this hall. From about 20:00 to 22:00, visitors are delighted with their programs by dancers, bright and groovy, ready to take any willing (preferably sober) guest of the restaurant into their dance. The restaurant's cuisine is mainly Georgian, but there are also classic European dishes. The staff communicates in three languages, and waiters serve 6 halls: from the main hall for 160 people to the chamber "Asian" for only 6 visitors.

Taglaura restaurant in Tbilisi

This is a whole chain of restaurants in the capital of Georgia, which includes four food outlets:

• Gulia street, 1, near the bus station "Ortachala". Routes No. 19, 50, 55, 71, 101 go here, and there is a metro stop "Isani" relatively close.
• Kostava street, 77, next to the Vakhushti bridge. A few blocks to the west is the Technical University metro stop, and beyond the bridge is the Tsereteli metro station.
• Beliashvili street, next to the Morphological Institute. To the stop "Beliashvili Street, 14" there is a bus route number 121.
• Okrokan Road, on the southwest exit from the city. This is followed by either intercity minibuses or personal transport ().

Restaurant "Taglaura" (Tbilisi) is a rare case of synthesis of Western and Eastern culture. Firstly, this is a chain restaurant, that is, it is no longer positioning itself as a unique and only building. Secondly, Taglaura, like the two previous restaurants, is distinguished by a high concentration of Georgian flavor in the exterior, interior, cuisine and service. The halls are decorated in folk style, the main dishes are national (khinkali, shish kebab, khachapuri). Thirdly, the restaurant chain approaches visitors in a Western way, in this restaurant you can best see the influence of American and European cultures on Georgia.

Of the restaurant dishes, you should definitely try cheap and tasty khinkali of various types and with different fillings (from 50 tetri apiece), fresh local bread and lemonade, classic meat kebab, which is brought from the villages daily! Considering these facts and a large (as for Georgia) number of chain establishments, now you know exactly where to eat in Tbilisi :).

Wine culture is less developed in Taglaura, but you can try it here too. But brewing and drinking beer in the network of these restaurants is incredibly popular. So, as many as two points are equipped with their own small brewery, which allows you to create a fresh and high-quality product right on the spot. The most famous brewery in the restaurant near the station "Ortachala", which serves both light and dark beer. The average cost of a check for lunch or dinner is significantly lower than in popular and pretentious restaurants - 20-30 GEL.

Other restaurants in Tbilisi

Here I will list some places worth visiting, including interesting restaurants in Tbilisi with live music:

"Racha Dukhan" - a popular semi-basement restaurant located at the intersection of Lermontov and Dadiani streets. It is known for the only Abkhazuri in Tbilisi (spicy veal or pork sausages in a pork net).

"Zakhar Zakharych" is one of the few restaurants where the native citizens also go. Here are the best khinkali in Tbilisi of 10 different types (meat ones cost from 80 tetri apiece). It is located almost under the Dry Bridge.

Phaeton, the main competitor of Melnitsa, is also located along Beliashvili Street, a little further than the already mentioned restaurant. Paphos and exclusive, relying on the flavor of Georgia. But it's tasty, albeit pricey.

"Samikitno - Machakhela" is the best (in my opinion) restaurant in Tbilisi in a chain format (only Taglaura can argue with it). Although, in fact, these two networks (three, if we single out Machakhela separately, which is positioned as a network of khachapurs) belong to the same company. Regional Adjarian restaurants are located throughout the city, and the main one is in the heart of the Old City - on Maidan or Meydan (Vakhtang Gorgasal Square). Here they make real Adjarian khachapuri, delicious khinkali. The average check for a tight snack is 15 GEL.

"Samikitno - Machakhela" - there are several restaurants of this chain in Tbilisi, most often they visit those located on Freedom Square and Vakhtang Gorgasal Square. It is noteworthy that reviews about them (in comparison with each other) can be found diametrically opposed. Someone claims that the best restaurant of the chain is located on Freedom Square, and on Meydan the establishment is mediocre. Others, on the contrary, assure that there is nothing to do in the Samikitno restaurant on Freedom Square. Personally, I liked it more in Machakhela on Vakhtang Gorgasal Square. There are often no places there, and the waiters may not seem very smiling and polite, but remember that you are in Georgia.


By the way, over the past year you can often find negative reviews about the network. Like, they began to work without a soul, everything is put on stream. Please share your feedback after visiting the restaurant.

4.7 (93.13%) VOTE 64

I found some of these places on my own, others were the advice of local friends, and I came across others by chance while walking along Tbilisi. I am happy to share information that will not be superfluous.

Assorted pkhali and chakapuli with mushrooms at Ezo restaurant

Ezo is Georgian for "courtyard", the place is hard to find if you don't know. Located at: st. GerontiKikodze, house 16 (in the yard). The peculiarity of the place is that the owners of the restaurant make all the products themselves or buy them from small private farms. The best Georgian snacks are served here - pkhali and incredibly delicious mushroom chakapuli - mushrooms are stewed with spices and tarragon. In the spring, be sure to try young lamb chakapuli.

Address: st. GerontiKikodze, house 16 (in the yard)

Matsoni and mchadi at Cafe Gabriadze (Gabriadze "s)

Matsoni is Georgian yogurt, and mchadi are cornmeal flatbreads that are served in Cafe Gabriadze in the form of bagels with pkhali stuffed with spinach. I also advise ice cream with condensed milk. Real fusion, prices are average for Tbilisi, 40-70 GEL for two.

Gabriadze is a cult Georgian screenwriter, director, author of many films, in particular Mimino and Kin Dza Dza, founder of the theater in Tbilisi. Cafe Gabriadze is located right in the theater building, and besides the food, you will definitely like the interior.

Address: 12 Shavteli Street, adjacent to the theater building

Georgian breakfast at Tbilisi Hilltop

In Georgia, people like to sleep, so you can have breakfast at least until noon. Freshest matsoni with fruits and chocolate cake - the best option in a cafe Tbilisi Hilltop. It is located not far from the Narikala fortress.

Address: st. Betlemi, 27

Best khinkal Tbilisi

The list of khinkali is far from complete, I will name the most the best khinkali in Tbilisi, which I visited on the advice of local friends:

• "Zakhar Zakharych", St. Sanapiro, 3a- the best traditional khinkal according to many locals.
• "Fantastic Spirit of Sofia Melnikova"(Sofia Melnikova "s Fantastic Douqan), Tabukashvili St., 9. Hid in the courtyard of the Literary Museum. A must-see place because of the amazingly cozy courtyard and delicious khinkali with mushrooms.
• Pasanauri, Griboedovi str., 37/46, open from 10:00 to 02:00 (nights)
• "At Velyaminov", Dadiani st., 8 - metro station Freedom Square - the most inexpensive of the offered, very tasty

Dogwood Soup and Lamb Ribs at Barberestan Restaurant

Restaurant Barberestan- it's intimate, cozy and tasty. In addition to traditional and incredible ribs and chicken with spinach, unusual dishes are prepared here, for example, dogwood soup according to old noble recipes of the 19th century. This restaurant started from a book of recipes found by a noble family.

Address: st.D. Aghmashenebeli ,132

Ukrainian and Georgian cuisine at the Famous Restaurant

Borscht, chicken Kiev, potato pancakes in sour cream, dumplings with meat, syrniki with caramel sauce, chashoshuli, chakhokhbili, chicken tabaka, chicken kharcho soup, shkmeruli - all this can be tasted in Tbilisi famous restaurant, st. Abo Tbileli, 1 – Gudiashvili square.

A good trip to combine two cuisines, and Ukrainian pancakes and Georgian shkmeruli - chicken in garlic sauce can be called favorites ..

Address: st. Abo Tbileli, 1

Car rental in Georgia

Now in Georgia you can rent a car in all major cities and airports. We rented a car upon arrival in Kutaisi on that website. Prices for car rental in Georgia are slightly higher than in Europe, 50-70 dollars per day, but significantly lower than 5 years ago - then they were around 100 dollars. In most cases, an ordinary passenger car is enough, where an SUV is needed, you can always use the services of local residents - it's inexpensive, from 10 to 50 dollars, depending on time and distance. You can read more about car rental in Georgia.

How to buy a flight to Tbilisi

AT Tbilisi from Ukraine several airlines fly, including UIA, Georgian Airlines, YanAir, SkyUp. You can buy a ticket on the website of the airlines or use the aggregator www.aviasales.ru- here it is very often cheaper than directly on the site.

Budget hotels in Tbilisi

Choose suitable hotel in tbilisi , better in advance, on the site HotelsCombined (Room Guru)- a kind of "skyscanner", but for hotels. Choose a hotel, the site offers the best price among all popular booking systems.

Restoclub columnist Victoria Dim visited the capital of Georgia, studied local establishments and made her top list.

At first it seemed to me that in Georgia it should be divinely delicious everywhere. There are really a lot of establishments, you can eat here endlessly (and drink too). The first days I regularly went to all the top places from the well-known rating: it was bold, traditional, sometimes fun. And - oh, my God - not always tasty! One restaurant even broke the disappointment record: I couldn't eat a single dish.

But the language, they say, will bring you to Kyiv. Making new friends in Tbilisi is easy: Georgian openness and hospitality, combined with my curiosity, did their job - soon I had a long list of establishments where modern Tbilisians go with a developed sense of beauty. It was he who helped to truly explore the city, after which I made this top 10. Here are collected the most memorable restaurants - with different cuisines and price ranges, their audience and special mood - places that really reflect the brightness and diversity of modern Georgian culture in the best possible way. Use when traveling in Tbilisi!

KAKHELEBI
Address: Saknavtobi #2 Kakheti Hwy
Average score: 1200 rub.

Legendary place in a nondescript building on the side of the road next to Tbilisi Airport. Long queues of drivers line up at the showcase with dozens of types of breads, pies and pies. It gives the impression of another roadside eatery, in which only the most desperate truckers will dare to dine on the Rostov-Vladikavkaz highway. But in fact, politicians and show business stars from all over the world have been coming here for dinner for more than 10 years. Be sure to book a table in advance: the probability of entering from the street and occupying one of the eight tables is close to zero.

There is a menu here, but it is not recommended to look at it. The decision about the dishes is made by the waiter after several questions: “Meat or fish? Boiled, stewed, fried? Khachapuri? Further, depending on the products and the method of their preparation, snacks and wine are offered.

The choice of dishes changes constantly according to the season and the products available. This is not a tribute to the trend, but a life reality. The restaurant provides its own farm of 60 hectares, where they grow everything they need from nuts to quails. They also make their own wine: it is worth trying their blend of pink "Mary" of merlot and rkatsiteli, named after the owner's mother.

The combinations of ingredients here are worthy of the best gourmet restaurants (which cost only a salad with greens, carrots, strawberry marshmallow and pomegranate seeds). The goat stew in tomato sauce - a signature dish - falls apart and melts, and the signature khachapuri with three types of cheese and a thin, thin layer of ruddy dough was unrealistically tasty and huge, and it would be enough for six. In addition, it is worth trying smoky dishes fried over an open fire: pork fillet, veal cutlets, fish, vegetables, mushrooms. In conclusion - tea with mountain thyme and natural sweets, not at all cloying: for example, jam from watermelon peels, from whole walnuts, nuts in honey and fresh soft churchkhela.

Already in September 2016, the owners plan to open a second Kakhelebi in the center of Tbilisi for almost 400 seats, with an open kitchen and separate rooms for barbecue, pastries, and a confectionery.

CAFE LITTERA/ CULINARIUM
Addresses: 13 Ivane Machabeli St. / 1 Mikheil Lermontovi
Average score: 1200 rub. in both establishments

The owner of these two restaurants, Tekuna Gachechiladze, is the number one chef in Georgia. The establishments are located in the neighborhood, their menus overlap in many ways, but the format is radically different. Culinarium is a year-round experimental site where new recipes are invented and tested, and the best of them end up on the menu of summer Littera (thankfully, Tbilisi summer lasts approximately from March to November) - a fabulous place with a courtyard surrounded by stone walls, with a winding path and a whole forest of tall trees.

The cuisine of Tekuna Gachechiladze is called “Georgian fusion”, where the usual tastes of the Caucasus are mixed with explosive Asia, classical Italy or France.

Chakapuli is made from mussels instead of lamb, shrimp and polenta are put in kharcho, and cheesecake is baked from tender nadugi curd cheese. It seems that only Gachechiladze in Tbilisi dared to serve trout carpaccio: a Georgian can only dream of eating raw fish in a nightmare (and even with avocados). Dips should be an obligatory item: baked eggplant with a bright taste of a fire, vegetable beetroot with nuts or delicate yogurt. They are served with lavash triangles and brighten up even a very long wait for other courses.

The menu in both establishments is like a spinning globe: point your finger at any position - you won't go wrong. The execution of dishes is excellent, be it a warm salad of Kakhetian herbs, viscous suluguni in a thin golden breading, tender zucchini soup with crispy mussels, salmon with tarragon sauce or filet mignon with forest mushrooms. By the way, about the last. Georgia has a great variety of them: take the chance to try the fried Caesar mushroom, also known as nikvi, a local delicacy.

MOULIN ELECTRIQUE
Address: 28 Kote Afkhazi St.
Average score: 800 rub.

This cafe is located on the main street of Tbilisi right next to the synagogue. From the noise and extra people, it is protected by the ruins of churchkhela and indistinct ultra-tourist eateries. A spacious courtyard with a wooden balcony obligatory for Tbilisi, a couple of halls inside with library filing cabinets and cats on the walls: this miniature Georgian Montmartre is a favorite meeting place for creative youth for a hearty dinner or a nightly cocktail. Food is prepared simply for every day.

You can dine on a budget: the portions are huge, one or two dishes are enough to eat to satiety. In the evening it becomes noisy and crowded here, companies literally stick around every free meter and in every possible way interfere with the relaxed work of waiters. The speed of service is not the institution's forte.

The menu has an abundance of dishes with cheese, special khachapuri and interesting sandwiches, for example, on Georgian bread with a huge piece of suluguni. I advise you to leave European dishes for bored locals, and go for Georgian ones yourself: beans in a pot, shish kebabs (mtsvadi) or a traditional salad with nuts and a ton of herbs. And remember about the portion size: even a vegetable kebab is three skewers.

MUKHATSAKATUKHA
Address: 15 Giorgi Akhvlediani St.
Average score: 1200 rub.

Although located in the main bar-party triangle of Tbilisi and offering wines from trendy winemakers like Nika Bahia, Mukha-Tsokotukha is still worth coming here for breakfast. The special offer includes homemade jam, butter, bread, cheese, tea or coffee of your choice. In the mornings, the miniature hall is filled with the aroma of fresh pastries: several types of yeast-free bread and pies are baked in the cafe.

There are also warm tartines: fried eggplant with tomato, blue cheese with pear, or scorched goat's stew with seasonal fruit jam on rye toast. Lovely sandwiches, of course, but it’s hard to see them against the backdrop of the local “pizza”: for 17 GEL they will bring you a whole baking sheet, where thin Armenian lavash is smeared with olive paste, layers of cheese the size of a finger are laid on it, and the filling is three times higher: mushrooms, tomatoes, aromatic peppers, sugar figs.

They also have excellent branded water with half a kilo of fruit per liter, saturated with the taste of melon, apples, pears and berries.

In general, you can’t call a budget place, and the Georgian spirit, in addition to the hospitality of the staff and the taste of fresh products, is not particularly felt here, but, nevertheless, there is something in the “Fly” that makes you come back every morning.

CAFE GABRIADZE
Address: 13 Shavteli St.
Average score: 1400 rub.

The cafe at the famous Gabriadze Puppet Theater on Shavteli pedestrian street is a performance in itself. The interior and details were designed by Rezo Gabriadze himself, an artist, writer and author of more than 35 films, including Mimino and Kin-dza-dza. Tables and chairs are hand-written with phrases from films and performances, posters cover the walls, and Shakespeare frowns even from the curtains.

The menu is an interesting neat Georgia with “stray” borscht and donuts. Positions for vegans are carefully marked with a special sign, there is a section with dishes on a wood-fired grill and on a ketsi (traditional clay pan): for example, bubbling lobio with beans or tobacco chicken. Special offers do not appear with the season, but as the chef inspires. For example, it was inspired to make “oyster mushrooms, fried, as it were, under a hot food iron” or ice cream with rum - everything is here.

By the way, oyster mushrooms, they say, are available in Georgia almost all year round, and in “Gabriadze” they go under a thin fried crust, with nuts in honey. Deserves an ovation. But the signature dishes in the cafe are Imeretian khachapuri, and even the “small” size is very large!

But the choice of authentic desserts is rather modest: I recommend a small pelamushi made from cornmeal and grapes with nuts: almost unsweetened, with a slight sourness, it perfectly complements the bitterness of oriental coffee. And pay attention: red wine is poured into tea here. Oh, this theatrical bohemia.

STRADA
Address: 7 Sandro Euli St.; Marjanishvili St.
Average bill: 1200 rubles.

One day, Moscow businessmen with Georgian roots decided to open a restaurant in Tbilisi. There was no experience in the industry, so they did as they knew: they invited some of the best interior professionals and eminent chefs. This is how the first Strada appeared with brand chef Isaac Correa (creator of Correa’s, UDC, Corner Burger, Montalto and Black Market), confectioner Suki Maman from London (formerly Upside Down Cake) and barista Nastya Godunova (Good Enough). The opening of a second restaurant on Marjanishvili Street with almost 350 seats proved the viability of the concept. Refreshing New York breeze in the kingdom of khachapuri.

In the evenings, live music concerts are held here: saxophone, guitar, piano. The courtyard is filled with a pleasant buzz of conversations, and tables are filled with glasses with hit branded lemonades. Mostly modern locals and expats come here, tired of the traditional delights of Georgian cuisine (and you get tired of them pretty quickly).

There are two main menus in circulation: American-European and Asian with a Korean accent - different, like day and night, in appearance, flavors and price. An Asian dinner will cost 2-3 times more, however, Tom Yam will bring a bucket, and soups from Europe - just a generous plate. Pizza is prepared in the American style, pasta, buns and all pastries are made by themselves.

Come here, firstly, for the only proper hummus in the city with vegetable sticks and pita, and, secondly, for red cabbage salad with dates and feta. On the menu, it is boringly called "Baked Beets with Feta", but in reality everything is much more interesting. As a hot dish, I recommend cauliflower soup with salmon from my own smokehouse.

Strong desserts from London chef Suki Maman also cannot be ignored. And don't let bright cupcakes cloud your mind - order a milk cake. On top is a layer of light butter cream, and a dense biscuit in it is saturated with boiled condensed milk sauce so that even a light touch with a spoon makes moisture come out around the edges.

GARDENIA SHEVARDNADZE
Address: Khudadovi Street, Dead-end
Average score: 800 rub.

A visit to Gardenia is more of an entertaining and aesthetic event than a gastronomic one. It is worth including this place in the list of must-see attractions before visiting the Botanical Garden. You will have to go purposefully by taxi (15-20 minutes from the center) or by public transport.

This is actually a botanical nursery that sells hundreds of species of flowers and plants in pots. Pragmatics is hidden behind absolutely pastoral paintings of the Garden of Eden, where antiques are buried in greenery. Everything is built and made by owner Zura Shevardnadze: from long straight greenhouses to stacks of vintage plates and forks. Each square meter is of interest and admiration, you can walk for hours and look at the details.

The cafe was opened for guests to relax: they made a bright veranda with Provencal chairs, flowers here, flowers there. The menu is compact and consists only of the owner's favorite dishes (by and large, vegetarian). Take a decanter of sea buckthorn or other seasonal compote and "Lunch from Zura": Gurian mchadi, cheese, eggplant salad. Even lighter - fried elarji balls with nut butter.

G. VINO
Address: 6 Erekle II St.
Average score: 1500 rub.

The number of wine bars/shops/tasting clubs in Tbilisi is beyond all expectations. Most of them have been working for many years and are absolutely no different from each other. And Erekle Street is purely touristic, so G. Vino against the general background of drinking establishments here is like a ray of light in a dark kingdom.

This place is "alive" and is devoid of the naphthalene coating, which is so characteristic of Georgian wine bars. However, he does not overload himself with an academic and educational function of lectures about the fate of modern winemaking in the region. Of course, if you wish, you can ask the sommelier for a brief excursion, but it is better to leave it for another occasion and come here just to drink good natural wine and have a snack.

First of all, decide on the wine: you will have to take a bottle. There are drinkers, but they come out much more expensive, and the choice is small. Be sure to take cheeses: they are made in a private cheese factory that specializes in original flavors: suluguni aged in saperavi, young tenilla and a few other names that do not say anything about the amazing taste. In principle, this is enough for a perfect evening. But the very hungry are offered salads and hot dishes: “sulgunela” made from buffalo milk with cherry tomatoes and basil sauce or chicken croquettes in nut sauce are especially noteworthy.

Oh MODA, MODA!
Address: 64-66 Vasil Barnov St.
Average score: 1500 rub.

This place has been trendy for 4 years since it opened. A cafe and a designer shop were opened by designer Nino Nozadze, costume designer Tinatin Kvinikadze and art critic Ketevan Sakandelidze, while the menu was developed by the same famous Tekuna Gachechiladze (Cafe Littera and Culinarium).

The first open kitchen in Tbilisi appeared here: they simply opened the wooden doors to the hall. In autumn and winter, it's nice to sit by the fireplace with a cup of organic coffee and a piece of hot chocolate cake, leafing through a selection of glossy magazines. In summer, tables and wicker chairs appear in a miniature courtyard. The place is located a little further from the main routes, so during the day it is quiet and calm, and in the evening a DJ appears and a young creative cluster flocks.

From 10 am they serve delicious breakfasts: oatmeal with fruit, pancakes, omelettes or egg Benedict on crispy toast. Sandwiches (for example, with vegetables and artichoke), tartines, quiches are popular. The price tag is higher than in Mukhatsakatukha, and the portions are smaller.

First of all in O moda, moda! chic appetizers. For example, assorted dips with various types of beans, vegetable sticks and bread can be eaten endlessly - they are so delicious. And yes, the portion is huge. For hot, I recommend trout with orange or steak with arugula sauce.

By the way, Lagidze lemonades, famous in the post-Soviet space, and a carrot cake with a tower of cream cheese, already famous among local guests, are served here.

144 STAIRS
Address: 27 Betlemis St.
Average score: 800 rub.

The name of this cafe was given for a reason: you will have to climb Mount Narikala high, along the way you will definitely get lost and walk through the old city in search of the right stairs. But as a reward, you will get a stunning view of the center of Tbilisi, framed by red roofs.

Initially, it was an art gallery, which collected paintings by contemporary Georgian artists. To this day, the inner halls of the cafe remain the gallery, however, the hookah here has become much more popular than art. It is better to reserve tables on the veranda in advance, those wishing to drink a glass of cold white while watching the slow flow of the river, a lot at any time of the day.

The menu is conveniently divided into two parts: Georgian and European. There is barbecue, there are steaks, there is pizza and pasta too. It’s worth a thorough walk through the Georgian part, ordering dishes in a pan and ketsi. For example, chicken shkmeruli with an uncompromising amount of garlic or meat roast ojakhuri. Local specialty and pride - gupta lobio - bean balls in walnut sauce with Georgian spices. For their sake, you can climb 144 steps and again.

Photos: Victoria Dim. Some of the photos provided by institutions.

This post is about those places whose names will not say much to people who have not been to Tbilisi. However, it is they who can safely claim the title of restaurants, where you should definitely look in being in the status of a guest of the Georgian capital. This is not just a list of the restaurants where I have eaten. This is a list of restaurants that, in comparison with other establishments, turned out to be somewhat better than their competitors. The list is constantly replenished / corrected as new experience and new establishments appear. Bookmark the post.

It's important to know

• Now, if you want to try real Georgian cuisine and not be disappointed, you will have to go further from the center. And pay more
• First they bring an empty plate with cutlery, and then the dishes themselves;
• Tips are already included in the bill almost everywhere (i.e. we add tips to the prices in the menu). Typically it is 10%. In popular with tourists Samikitno on Meydan Square 15%;
• Many fashion establishments (Cafe Stamba, Shavi Lomi) have gone even further by introducing the practice of adding so-called. "VAT" in the amount of 18%, which visitors will learn about only at the stage of payment;
• Accounts are brought exclusively in Georgian. Are you afraid to be counted? Then it’s better to take a picture of the price of what was ordered on your phone so that there are no questions later;
• Accepted everywhere.

Bill from Shavi Lomi

Have breakfast or a snack

Waters of Lagidze on Rustaveli

I learned about the existence of this place purely by chance from the indigenous people of Tbilisi. “Water of Lagidze”, I’m not afraid of this word, is a real Georgian brand, which at one time made both American presidents and Soviet general secretaries admire. It is best to touch the history of the drink here, on Rustaveli. Legendary drinks (or rather syrups for them) were invented by Mitrofan Lagidze in 1887 and since then have been an integral part of Georgian history. They were so good that even at the historic Yalta conference in 1945 there were bottles of Lagidze Waters on the tables, and Franklin Roosevelt, who tasted this wonderful drink, took as many as two thousand bottles with him to America. In turn, Harry Truman was wondering if it was possible to supply lemonade directly to the United States? Ironically, many years later, Mitrofan Lagidze's great-grandson Vakhtang became chief technologist and vice-president at one of the lemonade factories in Tbilisi, where Coca-Cola production was established.

I advise you to order creamy - it is the most delicious! Khachapuri in Adjarian or Imereti should also be fine. The visitors are mostly locals, the interior is Soviet.

Prices are very affordable: a large Imeretian khachapuri 7.5 GEL, a small Adjarian khachapuri - 7.9 GEL, a glass of Lagidze water (300 ml) - 1.5 GEL. Opening hours from 10:00 to 22:00. Bank cards are also accepted for payment. It seems like there is Wi-Fi, but I could not connect.

Entrance to the cafe "Water Lagidze" on Rustaveli Ave.

The order is made at the checkout

Having made an order, you can sit down at any free table and wait for the food to be brought to you, drinking creamy lemonade. Number on the table for the waiter.

Georgians like to drink Lagidze by mixing both lemonades in one glass. You will take a look here. Many (if not all) locals do just that. This was once told to me by a local resident whom I found on Tripster.

Waters of Lagidze near Holy Trinity Cathedral

It is located on the territory of the Cathedral of the Holy Trinity, and therefore it makes sense to come here after visiting the cathedral. The food here is delicious. The legendary drink for my taste is somewhat different from what is poured in Lagidze on Rustaveli. It tastes better here. It is best to order creamy. You can order lemonade to go - poured into a plastic liter bottle. It's pretty cool to walk around and drink lemonade while hiking. Children should especially like it. It is in the new Lagidze that you should definitely try Adjarian khachapuri. Here he is one of the best that I have tried in Tbilisi.

Prices are higher than in Lagidze on Rustaveli, but I would not call them biting either. Small Imeretian khachapuri 4 GEL, small Adjarian khachapuri 8.5 GEL (pictured), a glass of Lagidze water (250 ml) 2 GEL, a liter bottle 5 GEL. Opening hours from 10:00 to 22:00. Bank cards are also accepted for payment. There is normal Wi-Fi. Delivery costs 5 GEL, call tel. 2-47-77-57.

"Water of Lagidze" opposite the Cathedral of the Holy Trinity

Perfect Adjarian khachapuri

Creamy and chocolate lemonade

eat well

Restaurant Samikitno

It is not in my rules to openly scold the institution. Anything can happen and not always this "everything" depends on the institution itself. But, Samikitno is a real failure. And full. It used to be a good restaurant. The time on the phone is the time I spent waiting for my tasteless khinkals. And this despite the fact that it was daytime, the restaurant was filled somewhere by 60%, and khinkali in such establishments have not been molded by hand for a long time. Draw your own conclusions.

Why is it on my list? Everything is simple. This is the largest chain of restaurants in Tbilisi, which every now and then will come across on the way and where, in the end, every traveler will go. Well, almost everyone. Just now your expectations will not be too high.

The prices are among the lowest in the city. The average price for one khinkali is 0.7-0.8 lari. Payment by card is possible. Tipping in the amount of 10% (and on Meydan Square 15%) will be included in the bill plus the amount of the order.

Tasteless khinkali

Exactly opposite in terms of prices and quality to the aforementioned Samikitno restaurant is Keto & Kote. A very cozy place, the entrance to which can be found from the third time. For the readers of my blog, everything is much simpler - on the map at the end of the article, there is a route that will take you straight to the place. If it's a fine day, feel free to sit on the summer veranda, where it's so nice to admire the view of the city and the magnolias blooming here. I would venture to recommend cheese khinkali. I liked.

Prices are above average. For a portion of khinkali (pictured), you will have to pay 17 GEL. Tipping at the discretion of visitors. "Fashionable" tax, the so-called. "VAT" is not here yet.

Cheese khinkali

Pasanauri

I would call it a kind of golden mean. Firstly, it is located in the very center, a stone's throw from Meydan square. Secondly, they are still well prepared. Thirdly, quite reasonable prices. Fourthly, normal quite friendly staff. And finally, fifthly, I came here on the advice of one of the coolest - Aishat. As you can imagine, my expectations were justified.

Prices are average. They accept cards. The main thing is that it works around the clock.

Entrance to Pasanauri

With guide Aishat at the entrance to Pasanauri

If you walk along the street. Agmashenebeli, then Shavi lomi is the first place to look in search of a place where to eat properly. Shavi lomi means "black lion" in Georgian. Many already know about it, but the flow of tourists is still not enough for the black lion to turn from a cozy family cafe into a shabby cat. Try ordering a chikhiritma. She seemed delicious to me.

Prices are average. Tipping at the discretion of visitors. However, it is here that those notorious 18% are added to the cost of dishes, which I am talking about and about which there is not a word in the menu.

Entrance to Shavi lomi

Delicious chikhirtma

Drink coffee or eat dessert

Cafe "Old Generation"

This is an authentic place saturated with the love of its creators, which you will definitely meet when walking along the Wine Descent. Do not go here - just a crime! A small room with stone walls hung with various ancient Georgian attributes of being, which almost made it to the time of Vakhtang Gorgasali. The hostess managed to turn her brainchild from an inconspicuous family cafe into a real cult place. Although you can still meet there only very experienced and sophisticated travelers. Coffee is brewed according to some "secret" recipe and looks like Irish coffee. I was here with my Iranian friends and everyone was absolutely delighted.

To be honest, I don't remember the price. I was treated by the Iranians, who flatly refused to take money from me. In my opinion, coffee cost something around 6 GEL. Paid exactly in cash.

Entrance to the cafe "Old Generation"

Coffee according to the "secret" recipe

Ice cream parlor Luca Polare

Desserts are not applicable here. Want a traditional coffee? - also in Luca Polare. My favorite set: espresso, a scoop of Coffee ice cream (this is one type of ice cream of your choice) and some water (not everywhere espresso is served with water, although this is how it should be served).

Prices: espresso 3.5 GEL, cappuccino 4.9 GEL, Americano 4.3 GEL. Ice cream ball 3 lari. Opening hours: from 08:00 to 02:00. Cards are also accepted for payment.

Luca Polare on the street. Kote Abkhazi

Good selection of ice cream

Ice Cream Coffee

"correct" set

PurPur

Many people know and rightly write laudatory reviews about this institution. It's called Purpur. But, not many people know what exactly is worth ordering here. It is in this place that you should try a cool and not banal dessert - baked quince.

baked quince