Characterization of synthetic fragrances. What perfumery consists of Fragrances are

To create scents, perfumers use a huge assortment of fragrant raw materials - there are more than five thousand items in total; Among them, a large place is occupied by natural aromatic substances obtained from plants.

To obtain essential oil from them, scented plants are grown in the Caucasus, Crimea, Moldova, Central Asia, the Central Black Earth Region, and Ukraine. These are mainly coriander, rose, cumin, fennel, clary sage, geranium, mint, lavender, anise, jasmine, oakmoss, azalea, cistus and others.

Up to 90% of the obtained essential oils are used only by the perfumery and cosmetic industry, the rest are used for the food industry and for scenting household chemicals (laundry detergents) and toilet soap.

Natural fragrances are obtained from fresh and dried plant parts mainly by distillation, pressing (squeezing) or extraction with various solvents.

Plants containing a small amount of essential oils are subjected to distillation with water vapor: for example, coriander seed (fruit) contains about one percent of essential oil; from one ton of fresh rose petals, one to two kilograms of rose oil is obtained. The distillation takes place at a high temperature, and some of the constituent parts of the oils leave with the distillation waters, therefore the smell of the oil changes and usually deteriorates significantly compared to the smell of the petals.

The peels of the fruits of lemons, oranges, tangerines, orange and others, which contain a significant amount of relatively easily separated oil (for example, a fresh orange peel contains about 3% oil), are subjected to squeezing (pressing).

Some plants - flowers of lilac, lily of the valley, acacia - when heated, generally change the smell and give a completely unusable product, therefore, when they are processed, distillation is replaced by extraction with volatile solvents or liquefied gases. The solvent is distilled off from the extracts, and the so-called extract oils are obtained in the residue. Due to the fact that the distillation of the solvent is carried out at a low temperature, the smell of the extract oils corresponds to the smell of the feedstock. Along with fragrant substances, the extract oils also contain vegetable waxes, resins that have passed from raw materials; such oils are mostly solid, they are called concrete. When concrete is dissolved in alcohol, waxes and part of the resins precipitate and an almost pure, so-called absolute oil, remains in the solution. Essential oils, concretes and absolutes are obtained from a wide variety of seeds, flowers, peels, mosses, leaves, plants (for example, from rose flowers, jasmine, and others).

Vegetable raw materials are often used for the preparation of alcoholic infusions, especially when it is desirable to better preserve the smell of the raw materials and extract with it the accompanying resinous and other substances (infusions, for example, vanilla pods, iris root, cloves, oakmoss, are often used).

Many fragrant resinous substances obtained as a result of cuts in plants are of great importance. Most often, benzoin gum (dew incense), incense, tolu balsam, and styrax are used in perfumery.

Resinous substances give a great lasting odor. They are the strongest phytoncides and are suitable for the production of air purifying and disinfecting agents.

In the assortment of "fragrant" raw materials, an important place also belongs to fragrant substances of animal origin. We are talking about the dried glands of some male animals (musk ox - musk deer, beaver and, less often, muskrat) and secretions of other organs. Musk musk deer is found in the forested mountainous regions of Central Asia and Siberia. Cybet is the secretion of the glands of the civet cat that lives in North Africa and Asia; ambergris - secretion of the sperm whale (waxy mass).

Musk and ambergris, which were used in antiquity as an independent sense of smell, are currently used only to enrich perfume compositions. Ambergris gives the composition a special warmth, bright illumination. Musk, in addition to the influence of its own peculiar smell, has the ability to ennoble, round off the scent of the composition, to give the perfume refinement and temperament. The temperament of French perfumes is largely due to the presence of a large amount of substances with an animal scent in them. In addition, by affecting the nervous system, musk and ambergris sharpen the sensitivity, increase the duration of the perception of odors.

The role of animal scents in perfumery is so great that without them it is now difficult to imagine a full-fledged perfume; they are an indispensable part of the means for scenting skin, hair or dress.

Fragrant substances of animal origin are also valuable because they establish harmony between the smell of perfume and the skin of a person, as if they are related to these smells, serve between them in the middle, make the smell of perfume as if peculiar to a person, inherent in him. In literary works, the idea is often expressed about the emotional influence of the wonderful smells of healthy clean skin and hair, and in everyday life, for some reason, this is sometimes shyly kept silent about. Meanwhile, this influence should not be forgotten, since perfumes that are not in harmony with the smell of skin and hair make an unpleasant impression. Perfumers remember this well and the consumer should not forget about it.

Until the beginning of the 19th century, it was believed that essential oils are a homogeneous substance, more or less contaminated with any impurities. However, it turned out that this is far from the case: essential oils are a combination of a large (and often very large) number of chemically individual fragrant substances, each of which has its own smell, but one or two substances prevail in them that determine the main smell of an essential oil. At the same time, they contain small impurities with a weak odor or odorless, which play a large role, "rounding" the smell or giving it stability.

Even small admixtures of "impurities" change the smell of essential oil sometimes beyond recognition.

The impetus for the development of industrial synthesis of aromatic substances was the synthesis of vanillin. Through the work of domestic and foreign scientists, the constituent parts of many essential oils were isolated in pure form. The study of their chemical composition began, which led to the synthesis of the main fragrant substances that determine the pleasant smell of these oils.

Currently, about 80% of synthetic fragrances are used in perfumery, cosmetics, soap, food and other industries. The production of synthetic fragrances has become possible only thanks to the high development of chemical science and industry. Scientists have synthesized a huge amount of fragrant substances, both having analogues in nature and not found. The production of not only fragrant substances was organized, the synthesis of which was first carried out by foreign scientists, but also completely new fragrant substances: such as tibetolide, mustin, sangalidol, myrcenol and many others, which make it possible to replace natural fragrant substances (for example, santalidol largely replaces sandalwood oil) and create high quality products.

It should be borne in mind that the synthesis of fragrant substances belongs to a subtle, very complex, chemical technology, and even insignificant impurities, the presence of which is sometimes impossible to determine by conventional chemical or physical methods, are easily caught by the sense of smell; and thus prevent the use of the entire product.

Of the most widely used synthetic fragrances in perfumery, we note only a few with an indication of the base of the smell: benzyl acetate (jasmine smell), vanillin (vanilla smell), geraniol, phenylethyl alcohol and citronellol (rose smell), citral (lemon smell), hydroxycitronellal and linalool ( the smell of lily of the valley), terpineol (the smell of lilac), heliotropin (the smell of heliotrope), yonone (the smell of violets), coumarin (the smell of hay) and many others.

It is pertinent to ask the question: can synthetic fragrances completely replace natural fragrances? No! Synthetic fragrant substances, if they are of a floral nature, determine only the main feature of the smell of plants (and even then not completely), they only resemble the smell of this or that plant substance, but this is not its very smell. They are deprived of that charm of smell, that color (timbre), sonority, velvety, "orchestration" of the smell, which are inherent in natural fragrant substances.

It is impossible to completely replace natural fragrant substances with synthetic ones: only a combination of both makes it possible to create truly full-fledged works.

Synthetic aromatic substances deservedly occupy a very significant place in modern perfumery: without them, perfumery would have remained, perhaps, mainly at the level of the Middle Ages.

All perfumery and cosmetic products and toilet soaps contain synthetic fragrances. Without them, it would have been impossible to get all the variety of high quality products that we have at present. The word "synthetics" in this case means not only the replacement of natural aromatic substances with artificial ones, but also the creation of substances with new smells that do not exist in nature, and new valuable properties (persistence, originality and beauty of the smell). The abundance of synthetic and natural fragrant substances required, in order to facilitate and enhance the creative possibilities of the perfumer, the search for some so-called intermediate compositions, or bases, which are a harmonious combination of fragrant substances. These bases are unfinished compositions, they play the same role as chords and melodies in music. These are separate sketches, fragments that perfumers use in their further work.

As we have already said, there are about five thousand names of fragrant substances in total, and the bases consist of many (mostly within ten, or even more) fragrant substances. Therefore, when choosing a basis for a new scent or improving an existing one, the perfumer does not need to memorize the smells of all fragrant substances and scatter his attention.

The bases - the leading or auxiliary "segments" of the scent - are independent, complete, therefore, modern perfumery cannot exist without these bases.

The highest percentage of perfumery raw materials is ethyl (wine) alcohol of the highest purity. It plays the role of a fragrance solvent, refreshing and disinfecting agent. The strength of alcohol in perfumes ranges from 96.2 to 60%, and in colognes - from 75 to 60%.

From all these fragrant substances by their harmonious combination, perfumers prepare compositions - complete works of perfumery art, which in the form of perfumes, colognes, eau de toilette and other things reach the consumer.

Sources of obtaining aromatic substances

Sources of aromatic substances used in the food industry:

1. essential oils and infusions,

2. natural fruit and vegetable juices, including concentrated;

3. spices and products of their processing;

4. chemical and microbiological synthesis.

The resulting aromatic substances in most cases are a mixture of compounds (natural or artificially obtained), and only in some cases are they individual compounds. The creation of aroma compositions can be carried out in various ways. Considering that in most cases aromatic substances are complex mixtures of compounds, this requires special approaches to their hygienic assessment. Let us dwell on the main sources of obtaining aroma-forming and chemical compounds that make up their composition.

Essential oils (Essentialoils; Huilesessentielles; Äthenscheöle) - odorous liquid mixtures of volatile organic substances produced by plants and causing them to smell. Essential oils are multicomponent mixtures with a predominance of often one or more components. In total, more than a thousand individual compounds have been isolated from essential oils. The chemical composition of essential oils is variable. The content of individual components varies widely even for plants of the same species and depends on the place of growth, climatic characteristics of the year, the stage of vegetation and the timing of harvesting raw materials, features of post-harvest processing, the duration and conditions of storage of raw materials, the technology of their isolation and processing.

The chemical nature of the compounds that make up essential oils is very diverse and includes compounds belonging to different classes:

1.hydrocarbons;

2. alcohols;

3. phenols and their derivatives;

4. acids;

5. ethers and esters;

6. polyfunctional connections.

They are based on terpenoids - terpenes and their oxygen-containing derivatives. They include residues of isoprene fragments and have a polyisoprene skeleton: C10H16 (C5H8) 2.

Terpenes can be represented by aliphatic terpenes and contain three double bonds; monocyclic terpenes; bicyclic terpenes, as well as their numerous and varied oxygen-containing derivatives. Below are the main representatives of the compound groups.

The above, as well as other chemical components that make up the essential oils, can be present in different amounts, their composition and content is influenced by the method of extraction from plants.

The main methods for the isolation of essential oils from raw materials:

1. stripping with steam;

2. extraction with organic solvents followed by their distillation;

3. absorption of fresh fat "fleur-d" orange, or maceration;

4. CO2 extraction;

5. cold pressing.

Individual natural aromatic components are isolated from natural raw materials by distillation or freezing methods, as well as biotechnological methods.

Each of these methods has its own advantages and disadvantages and significantly affects the composition of the resulting products. When choosing a method of isolation, take into account the content and composition of essential oils, the characteristics of raw materials. For the extraction of essential oils, raw materials are used (for example, lavender flowers, lilac green mass), dried (mint) or dried (iris) raw materials, subjected to enzymatic processing (roses). Essential oils are colorless or green, yellow, yellow-brown liquids. The density is less than one. Poorly or insoluble in water, readily soluble in non-polar or low-polarity organic solvents. Essential oils in the light, under the influence of atmospheric oxygen, are easily oxidized. The concentration of essential oils varies from 0.1% (in rose flowers) to 20% (in carnation buds). For the analysis of fatty oils, methods of gas-liquid and liquid chromatography are currently used.

The widespread development of organic chemistry and chemical synthesis in the XX century. made it possible to synthesize many components of essential oils, make them more accessible and cheaper, create a wide variety of aromatic mixtures and their combinations, often using natural essential oils.

LECTURE 8 AROMATIC ESSENCES. PRODUCTION OF FOOD FLAVORS. QUALITY CONTROL.

Essence - liquid flavoring in the food industry.

Liquid flavors are most commonly used in the food industry. Aromatic substances that are dissolved in various liquids were formerly called essences. In accordance with the new GOST, this definition has been replaced by the term "food flavorings". They are all the same essential oil essences of various substances.

Consider such a popular liquid flavor as liquid smoke. It is actively used to give a smoking effect to various products. And you can still face the fact that even professional technologists, like home cooks, have absolutely no idea how the smoke is “pushed into the water”. You can hear the opinion that liquid smoke is a chemistry that has absolutely nothing to do with natural smoking of fish and meat. But in reality, everything is much simpler. The wood is ground into sawdust. They are placed in an oven and burned. In parallel, the water is brought to a certain temperature, and its vapors enter the containers, which also receive smoke from the burning sawdust. It is in these containers that the process of mixing water and smoke takes place. At the exit, a product is obtained, which is called "liquid smoke". There is no chemistry in it.

To this it should be added that resins and carcinogens are non-combustible substances in smoke that do not dissolve or mix in water. Insoluble substances are removed during further processing. This means that liquid smoke is more environmentally friendly than fire smoke. It is for this reason that in some countries smoking in the traditional way has been banned altogether, because during industrial smoking a lot of carcinogens are released into the atmosphere. In these countries, liquid smoke is the only smoking method.

The most commonly used synthetic aromas are food essences and vanillin.

Essences are artificial food flavors produced in an industrial way; are synthetic aldehydes.

To obtain the natural taste and aroma characteristic of some product, the chemical components are mixed in appropriate proportions. The number of ingredients reaches 10-15, most of them are synthetic fragrances. The exact resemblance to a natural scent is not easy to achieve. The greatest similarity is often achieved by adding natural aromatic substances, but not more than 25%. They increase the strength of the scent several times.

Among natural supplements, juices, essential oils, and infusions are most often used. The creation of synthetic essences is controlled by the Ministry of Health of the Russian Federation. They are subject to GOST and TU. Manufacturing is permitted in special enterprises. The most common essences are: apricot, apple, pear, strawberry, banana, orange, cherry, lemon, raspberry and others.

Aromatic food essences, synthetic aromatic substances used in the food industry to give certain products an appropriate aroma. They are complex compositions, which sometimes include up to 10-15 ingredients. Most of them are synthetic fragrances. In some essences, natural essential oils, infusions and fruit and berry juices are introduced to improve their smell. When creating a formulation of a synthetic essence, great importance is attached to the purity of the ingredients that make up the essence, especially the fragrant components that form the aroma of the essence.

The most common flavors are:

1.almond essence;

2. rum essence;

3. chocolate essence;

4. cognac essence;

5. cognac;

6. amaretto;

8. irish cream;

9. vanilla essence;

10. vanilla biscuit;

11.vanilla rum;

12. tiramisu;

13. crème brulee;

14. coffee shop;

15. caramel essence;

16.Cream Charlotte;

17.mint essence;

18. menthol, tarragon;

19. honey (floral);

20. honey (buckwheat);

21. hazelnuts;

22. pistachio;

23. walnut;

24. strawberry essence;

25. cranberries;

27. strawberry;

28. cherry (pulp) essence;

29. raspberry essence;

30. wild berries;

31. grape essence;

32. black currant;

33. barberry essence;

34. apricot essence;

35. peach essence;

36. pear essence;

38. apple;

40. prunes;

41. pineapple essence;

42. banana essence;

43. coconut essence;

44. lemon-lime;

45. orange essence;

46. ​​lemon essence;

47. tangerine essence.

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Topic: "Synthetic fragrances"

Completed by: Vishnyakova K.

Fragrant substances- organic compounds with a characteristic odor used as odorous components in the production of perfumery and cosmetic products, soap, synthetic detergents, food and other products.

Fragrances can be classified according to four criteria:

By types of raw materials,

By chemical structure,

By smell,

· In the direction of use.

Raw materials for obtaining fragrances. Currently, oils that are directly isolated from flowers, such as rose oil, are rarely used as fragrances. Usually, fragrances for cosmetic preparations (as well as the actual perfume) are strictly thought-out mixtures, the components of which can be both natural fragrances and synthetic products. The raw materials for fragrances can thus be divided into natural and synthetic.

Natural fragrances can, in turn, be divided into the following groups:

Essential (or easily evaporating) oils,

Resins and balms,

· Substances of animal origin.

Natural essential oils. Essential oils got their name because, on the one hand, they are thick oily substances, and on the other hand, they evaporate already at room temperature in the form of vapors with a pleasant smell.

Chemically, they are not oils at all, but a variety of chemical compounds.

Of the flower oils, rose oil is probably the best known. Jasmine, clove, daffodil and lavender oils are obtained from their respective flowers.

Rosemary leaves are stripped of rosemary oil with steam, and bergamot oil is squeezed out of the peel of individual citrus fruits.

Essential oils are found in the flowers of many plants, often even in the leaves and stems of plants. They are obtained from flowers or the whole plant, for example, by extraction or steam distillation or, in some cases, by squeezing.

The raw materials for the production of essential oils can be divided into the following groups:

1. Grain(fruits, seeds):

Coriander,

Fennel, caraway seeds,

2. Herbaceous(leaves, aerial part of herbaceous plants, young branches of woody plants):

Eugenol basil,

Pink geranium,

Patchouli

Tagetis,

Eucalyptus,

Noble laurel,

Wormwood,

Nepeta,

Fragrant violet,

Rosemary,

Grindelia,

Conifers,

Chubushnik,

Fennel,

3. Floral(flowers, inflorescences, flower buds):

Clary sage,

Lavender,

Lavandin,

Jasmine large-flowered,

Lily white,

Lily regale,

· lilac,

Chubushnik,

Cloves (buds);

4. Root(roots, rhizomes):

Vetiver,

A special fifth group is made up of raw materials for obtaining retainers:

Lichen (oak moss),

· Incense.

Each essential oil plant usually serves as a source of one kind of industrial raw material or essential oil. This is typical for plants in which the essential oil is found either in one organ or in several, but very similar in composition.

Examples are the leaves and inflorescences of mint, leaves and branches of laurel noble, as well as anise and fennel, all of which aboveground organs contain an essential oil similar in composition to the essential oil from ripe fruits. Therefore, anise and fennel can be considered as sources of two types of raw materials (grain and herbaceous) and one essential oil.

However, there are many plants in which the essential oil from various organs differs sharply in composition and, therefore, in smell. They are sources of several raw materials and essential oils.

These are citrus fruits

- from young branches which receive petitgrain essential oil (the smell of bergamot direction, the main component is linalyl acetate);

- from flowers- Neroli essential oil (the characteristic smell of citrus flowers is methyl anthranilate);

- from fruits lemon, orange, tangerine, etc. - essential oils of lemon, orange, etc. (the smell inherent in this species).

Such plants also include fragrant violet, coriander, iris, mock orange, tobacco, dill, etc.

The list goes on and on, since it is estimated that there are about 1,700 different fragrant substances in the plant world. These essential vegetable oils are, of course, not pure substances, but always mixtures containing some basic substance with a pleasant smell.

In the manufacture of some cosmetic formulations, a floral scent is used, however, essential vegetable oils are usually not used in their pure form: they eliminate (often using rather complicated procedures) unnecessary components, such as terpenes harmful to the skin or any component that smells too strong ...

Thus, from many essential oils obtained from natural sources, purified semi-finished products are made for their subsequent inclusion in mixtures.

An example is citronella oil, derived from the citronella herb. From this oil, several necessary fractions are distilled off separately: geraniol, citronellol (menthol smell) and some terpene derivatives (used as fixatives).

Resins and balms- substances secreted by plants during normal physiological metabolism, as well as during wounds.

Balms- solutions of resins in essential oils. Resins are of solid consistency, balsams are liquid or oily.

Balms and resins (Peruvian balm, benzoin gum, etc.) excreted by plants when injured, are natural protective agents developed by nature itself, which accelerate wound healing.

Balms and resins successfully perform the same function when applied to an animal organism and to humans.

Resins and balms - energetic phytoncides... Due to these properties, many of them are highly desirable as components of cosmetic preparations intended for skin and hair care.

Resins and balms are found in many plants. These are complex mixtures of organic compounds, mainly of diterpene structure, viscous consistency, non-volatile with water vapor, soluble in ethyl alcohol and other solvents.

In resins are especially widespread cyclic resin acids general formula C20H30O2. In addition, they include resin alcohols, esters of resin acids and various alcohols, hydrocarbons, tannins, phenols, etc.

Typically, resinous substances are present together with essential oils. The ratio between them varies over a very wide range. There is also a great difference in the content of resinous substances in various types of essential oil raw materials. So, in rose flowers there are about 0.5% of the absolutely dry mass, in young branches of cistus - 26%.

Peruvian balm- resin, which is taken from a notch made on the bark of an evergreen balsam tree from the myroxilon family. This substance with a mild scent, which has fixing properties, it fixes well and complements the scent of perfume.

Styrax- resin, which is obtained when trees of the witch hazel family are injured. It is a substance with a pleasant smell, which is used in pure form in perfumery as an odor fixer. Alcohols are also isolated from it, the esters of which are also used in the perfumery industry.

Fragrant substances of animal origin. Of the aromatic substances of animal origin, it should be mentioned ambergris- a waxy substance that is formed in the digestive tract of the sperm whale, as well as secreted by musk oxen musk.

Both of these substances are useful due to their pleasant smell and fixing properties. However, the production of these substances is associated with the slaughter of rare animals, so today they are almost never used ( use their synthetic counterparts).

Semi-synthetic fragrances. As mentioned earlier, geraniol, derived from citronella oil and being an alcohol according to its name, is esterified with various low molecular weight organic acids. This produces esters with an unusually subtle odor. fragrant perfumery styrax cosmetic

One example of such esters is the acetic acid ester - geranyl acetate... A methyl group can be introduced into the geraniol molecule, and a fine-smelling methylgeraniol.

Methylgeraniol is an example of how fragrances can be made from natural products in the so-called semi-synthetic way.

Synthetic fragrances. Of the aromatic substances produced by a purely synthetic method, the most famous is the substance with the aroma of bitter almond oil (which is obtained from apricot kernels). it benzaldehyde, the synthetic production of which is very simple.

Many aldehydes, fatty alcohols containing 9-10 carbon atoms, esters of aromatic acids are natural fragrances that are quite simple to prepare synthetically.

On the other hand, there are usable synthetic compounds with a pleasant smell, which have no corresponding analogs in nature.

The chemical structure of fragrances. The largest group of fragrant substances - esters; many fragrances belong to aldehydes, ketones, alcohols and some other groups of organic compounds.

Esters of lower fatty acids and saturated fatty alcohols have fruity smell(so-called fruit essences such as isoamyl acetate).

Esters of aliphatic acids and terpenic, or aromatic, alcohols possess flower scent(e.g. benzyl acetate, linalyl acetate, terpenyl acetate).

Esters of benzoic, salicylic and other aromatic acids mainly possess sweet balsamic aroma(they are often used as odor fixers - adsorbents of odoriferous substances).

Valuable fragrances include, for example:

· among aliphatic aldehydes- decanal, methylnonylacetaldehyde;

· among terpene- citral, hydroxycitronellal;

· among aromatic- vanillin, heliotropin;

· among fatty aromatic- phenylacetaldehyde, cinnamaldehyde, cyclamenaldehyde.

From ketones most important are:

Alicyclic, containing a keto group in the cycle (vetinone, jasmon) or in the side chain (ionones, damascones), and

Fatty aromatic (for example, n-methoxyacetophenone, musk ketone);

From alcohols most important are:

Monoatomic terpene (geraniol, linalool, terpioneol, cintronellol, etc.,

· Aromatic (benzyl alcohol, cinnamic alcohol).

The extensive experimental material on the relationship between the smell of a substance and the structure of its molecule (type, number and position of functional groups, branching, spatial structure, the presence of multiple bonds, etc.) is still insufficient to predict the smell of a substance on the basis of these data. Nevertheless, for certain groups of compounds, some particular regularities have been revealed.

Thus, the accumulation of several identical functional groups in one molecule (and in the case of compounds of the aliphatic series, different ones) usually leads to a weakening of the odor or even to its complete disappearance (for example, during the transition from monohydric alcohols to polyatomic alcohols).

Using the example of macrocyclic ketones (below in Figure (I)), it is shown that their smell depends on the number of carbon atoms in the cycle:

Ketones С10-С12 have camphor smell,

C13 - cedar,

С14-С18 - musky(the latter is retained if, at the same cycle size, one or two CH2 groups are replaced by an O, N, or S atom),

· And with a further increase in the number of carbon atoms ("n" in the figure) the smell gradually disappears.

Odorless and aliphatic compounds containing more than 17-18 carbon atoms.

The similarity of the structures of compounds does not always determine the similarity of their smells.

So compound (II) in the figure below at R = H has an odor amber, compound (III) - strong fruity aroma, and analogue (II), in which R = CH3, in general odorless.

The cis and trans isomers of anethole differ greatly in smell, as well as the cis and trans isomers of 3-hexene-1-ol, unlike vanillin (IV), isovanillin (V) is almost odorless:

On the other side, Substances that differ in chemical structure may have a similar odor.

For example, a rosy smell is typical for:

Roacetate С6Н5СН (ССl3) OCOCN3,

3-methyl-1-phenyl-3-pentanol С6Н5СН2СН2С (СН3) (С2Н5) ОН,

Geraniol and its cis isomer - nerol,

Rosenoxide (VI).

The odor is influenced by the degree of dilution of the fragrance. So, some odorous substances have an unpleasant odor in their pure form (for example, civet, indole).

Mixing various fragrant substances in certain ratios can lead to both the appearance of a new smell and the destruction of the original one.

Odor classification of aromatic substances. Until now, there is no strict scientific classification of fragrant substances by smell, and to describe them they continue to use subjective terms such as "fruity" or "floral", "musky" or "putrid" ... And in this direction, scientists and industrialists are still only " with a nose. "

Nevertheless already devices designed for the identification of volatile organic compounds have been created called "electronic nose". Their principle of operation is based on measuring the change in the conductivity of an electric current by polymeric materials (for example, polypyrroles, doped metals) due to the absorption of volatile organic substances by them. They are already used to determine the freshness or spoilage of food, for drug control, and the like.

However, no device has yet been invented for accurately characterizing a particular odor (and not just a substance, and even more so a complex mixture of substances - the carrier of this odor).

The human nose is still the most sensitive and reliable device when working with odors., which can determine the presence of odorous molecules in concentrations up to 10 -6 g in 1m 3 of air.

It should be borne in mind that the sensations and definition of the nature of the smell of even the same fragrant substance can be very different by different people. For example, the smell of methyl salicylate in the USA and Canada is assessed as very pleasant, and in England and Switzerland as smelly, unpleasant.

Smells of flowers are evaluated differently not only in different countries, but also among representatives of the same nation. Thus, a sharp discrepancy was found in the assessment of the same smell by people of different sexes, ages, and health conditions.

It is also appropriate to recall that even the nose of one person perceives the same smell in different ways - for the right nostril it is more pleasant.

All these factors indicate a large share of subjectivity in attributing a particular smell to a certain group.

It turned out to be difficult to classify fragrant substances by smell also because often the smell of the same substance depends on its concentration (for example, the smell of indole and skatole).

The first attempt to classify all odors was made by Aristotle in the 4th century BC, who divided them into six main ones:

Sweet,

Sour,

Sharp,

Tart,

Juicy and

Fetid.

And only two thousand years later, systematic attempts to create more thorough classifications began.

According to one of the theories of the 17th century, it was proposed to distinguish seven so-called primary (basic) types of smell:

Ethereal,

Camphor,

Musky

Floral,

Mint,

Sharp and

· Putrid.

All the rest of the existing diverse odors could be obtained by mixing the listed elementary odors.

In the middle of the 18th century, all smells were grouped into seven classes, and at the end of the 19th century. added two more classes, thus proposing the following classification of odors:

1. ether (acetone);

2. spicy (coniferous, camphor, clove, citrus, menthol, cinnamon, lavender);

3. fragrant (jasmine, violet, vanilla);

4. amber-musky;

5. garlic;

6. burnt;

7. goat (caprylic, smells of urine, sweat, semen, cheese);

8. repulsive;

9. fetid (rot, feces).

In 1916, a classification system of smells was created in the form of a pentahedral prism, at six vertices of which basic smells are located (1-6), and at points lying on the edges, edges and inside the prism - smells composed, respectively, of two (for example , 1-2 - floral-fruity), three, four and six basic scents.

1-6 - basic smells: 1 - floral, 2 - fruity, 3 - putrid, 4 - burnt, 5 - resinous, 6 - spicy.

There are also purely "perfumery" classifications of aromas. For example, the classification of the French Perfumery Committee, developed in 1999, has seven groups of scent compositions, divided into a number of subgroups:

1. Citrus(includes five subgroups - spicy, floral, woody, etc.),

2. Floral(nine subgroups - mono- and poly-floral lavender, aldehyde, greenery, fruit, woody, marine, etc.),

3. Fougere or fern (five subgroups - floral, amber, spicy, fruity, aromatic, etc.),

4. Chypre(seven subgroups - fruit, floral, aldehyde, leather, aromatic, green, etc.).

5. Woody(eight subgroups - citrus, coniferous, spicy, amber, aromatic, leather, sea, fruit),

6. Amber(six half groups - floral, spicy, citrus, woody, fruity),

7. Leather(three subgroups - floral, tobacco, etc.).

Classification of fragrances by type of use.

According to the direction of use, fragrances can be divided into:

1. perfumery substances(for the preparation of fragrant compositions intended for the manufacture of perfumes, eau de parfum or "daytime perfume", colognes and eau de toilette),

2. cosmetic substances(to add aroma to cosmetic products - lipstick, creams, lotions, foams),

3. perfume substances(for soap, synthetic detergents and other household products),

4. odor fixing agents(to reduce the evaporation of basic fragrant substances, as well as to intensify their smell in the case of synergy, that is, such a mutual influence of the two components of the perfume composition, which enhances their useful, in this context, and fragrant properties).

Bibliography

1. J. Villamo "Cosmetic Chemistry",

2.L.A. Heifits "Fragrances for perfumery",

3. "Fundamentals of organic chemistry of fragrances for applied aesthetics and aromatherapy" under. edited by A.T. Soldatenkov,

4. I.I. Sidorov "Technology of natural essential oils and synthetic fragrances",

5.R.A. Friedman "Technology of Cosmetics".

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Individual fragrances obtained by chemical synthesis are commonly referred to as synthetic fragrances (ADF).

ADDs are found in very many classes of organic compounds. Their structure is very diverse: these are compounds with an open chain of a saturated and unsaturated nature, aromatic compounds, cyclic with a different number of carbon atoms in the cycle. Among hydrocarbons, substances with perfumery properties are quite rare. Most fragrances contain one or more functional groups in the molecule. Esters and ethers, alcohols, aldehydes, ketones, lactones, nitroproducts - this is not a complete list of classes of chemical compounds, among which substances with valuable perfumery properties are scattered. Below is a brief description of some of the synthetic fragrances used in the perfumery and cosmetic industry.

Hydrocarbons are diphenylmethane, limonene and paracymol.

o Diphenylmethane is used for formulations and fragrances. Has an orange scent with a hint of geranium scent. It is not found in natural essential oils, it is obtained synthetically.

o Limonene is found in orange, lemon, caraway and other essential oils. It is obtained mainly by two methods: fractional distillation of essential oils containing limonene, and synthetically. Limonene has a lemon scent and is used as an ingredient in artificial lemon oil.

o Paracymol is found in small amounts in caraway, anise and other essential oils, and is used in various fragrances and compositions.

Alcohols(geraniol, nerol, citronellol, terpineol, linalool), like esters, are among the most common fragrances used in the perfumery and cosmetic industry.

• Geraniol is found in geranium, rose, citranella oils, lemon wormwood oil, etc. It is isolated from natural essential oils containing geraniol. Geraniol is used in compositions and fragrances to give them a rose scent.
• Nerol is found in rose, neroli, bergamot, ylang-ylang and other essential oils. Get it synthetically. Nerol has a rose scent, but no more delicate than geraniol.
• Citronellol is found in geranium essential oil. In industry, it is mainly obtained synthetically or from citranella oil. Citronellol has a rose scent and is used in various compositions and fragrances.
• Terpineol is obtained from turpentine oil. It is found in orange, neroli, petitgrain and camphor oils. Terpineol has a lilac scent and is used in many compositions as one of its constituent parts.
• Linalool is found in orange, ylangilang, coriander and other oils. It has the smell of lily of the valley. It is mainly obtained by fractional distillation of coriander oil.

Ethers used in the perfumery and cosmetic industry are diphenyl oxide, engenol, isoeugenol, methyl and ethyl esters.

• Diphenyl oxide is used as a fragrant substance with the smell of orange and geranium, for the preparation of perfumes and colognes, as well as fragrances of cosmetics, soaps and household chemicals.
• Eugenol and isoeugenol are isomers, that is, they are the same in composition, have the same molecular weight, but have different chemical and physical properties. They have a clove scent, and Engenol has a coarser smell. The industry prefers to use isoeugenol. It is found in clary sage oil, ylangilang, clove oil, etc. Eugenol is obtained from clove oil containing up to 85% eugenol, or synthetically.
• Methyl and ethyl esters of β-naphthols are used to prepare soap fragrances from synthetic detergents. Methyl ether (yara-yara) has a bird cherry smell, ethyl ether (nerolin-bromelia) has a fruity smell. They are not found in natural essential oils. Both esters are prepared synthetically.

Esters(benzyl acetate, benzyl salicylate, iso-amyl acetate, methyl salicylate, methyl anthranilate, etc.), by their chemical nature, represent the overwhelming majority of synthetic aromatic substances.

• Benzyl acetate is the main constituent derived from jasmine, hyacinth and gardenia flowers. However, in industry it is obtained synthetically. Diluted benzyl acetate has a jasmine-like scent. It is used for the preparation of compositions and fragrances.
• Benzyl salicylate was not found in natural essential oils. It is obtained synthetically. Has a slight balsamic smell and is used in perfumery compositions and fragrances.
• Isoamyl acetate was not found in natural essential oils. It is obtained synthetically. Has a scent reminiscent of orchid flowers. Possesses increased chemical resistance, especially in alkaline environments. Due to these properties, it is used mainly in fragrances for soaps, detergents, shampoos, as well as in household chemicals,
• Methyl salicylate is a component of cassian, ylang-ylang and other essential oils. However, it is obtained synthetically. Has an intense ylang-ylang scent. It is used for the preparation of compositions and fragrances.
• Methyl anthranilate was not found in natural essential oils. Get it synthetically. Has a scent reminiscent of orange blossom. Used to prepare compositions.
• Linalyl acetate is a part of oils (clary sage, lavender, bergamot, etc.). It is obtained from essential oils (coriander, etc.) containing linalool by reacting linalool in the oil with acetic anhydride, followed by purification from impurities by double distillation under vacuum. It has a scent reminiscent of bergamot oil. It is used in perfume compositions and fragrances for cosmetics, soaps and detergents.
• Terpenyl acetate has not been found in natural essential oils. It is obtained by reacting terpineol with acetic anhydride in the presence of a catalyst. Has a floral scent. It is used for the preparation of perfume compositions and fragrances with a floral scent.
• Ethyl cinnamate, although found in some essential oils, is obtained synthetically. Has a faint balsamic scent with a floral note. Used for the preparation of compositions and fragrances.

In addition to the listed esters, which have an intense aromatic odor, there is a large group of esters such as benzyl benzoate, diethyl phthalate, ethyl acetate, etc., which have a weak aroma, and therefore are not used as fragrances in compositions and fragrances. However, they are often used in compositions as solvents for hardly or poorly soluble crystalline fragrances in alcohol.

Lactones(coumarin, pentadecanolide) found the greatest application from this group of chemical compounds.

• Coumarin occurs naturally as glucosides in tonka beans and barley. However, in industry it is obtained synthetically. Has a scent of fresh hay. Used in compositions and fragrances.
• Pentadecanolide was not found in natural raw materials. It is synthesized chemically as a result of complex multistage reactions. This lactan is of great interest for the perfumery industry, as it has a rare smell of animal musk, and also has fixing properties in perfume compositions.

Aldehydes, like esters, are one of the most common chemical groups of aromatic substances. The following aldehydes have found the greatest use in industry.

• Benzaldehyde is found in many essential oils (orange, acacia, hyacinth, bitter almond, neroli, etc.). But in industry it is obtained by oxidizing toluene with manganese dioxide in the presence of copper sulfate. Has a bitter almond scent. Used to prepare compositions with a floral scent. In addition, benzaldehyde is used in many syntheses as a feedstock for the production of other fragrances.
• Vanillin is found in vanilla pods. It is produced in a variety of ways, but the most common synthesis is from guaiacol and lignin. Vanillin has a very strong vanilla smell. It is used in perfumery and cosmetic, confectionery, bakery and other food industries.
• Hydroxycitronellal has a fresh linden scent with a note of lily of the valley. Not found in natural essential oils. Received synthetically. Used for the preparation of many compositions and fragrances.
• Heleotropin is found in the essential oil of heliotrope flowers and vanilla pods. Essential oils containing safrole (sassofras, camphor and pseudo-camphor laurel, as well as star anise oil) are the starting material for obtaining geleotropin. Prepared by isomerization of safrole. Has a strong smell of heliotrope flowers. Used for the preparation of compositions and fragrances.
• Jasminaldehyde has not been found in natural essential oils. Received synthetically. When diluted, it resembles the scent of jasmine flowers. Used in compositions and fragrances. Jasminaldehyde is dangerous. It can ignite in the air, therefore, during storage, it is packed in bottles with ground-in corks and placed additionally in a metal container.
• Obepin as a fragrant substance with a smell reminiscent of hawthorn flowers is used in the manufacture of compositions for perfumes and colognes, fragrances for cosmetics. Found in nature in aniseed, fennel and other oils containing anethole. Until recently, obepin was obtained only from aniseed or fennel oils, containing 90 and 60% of anethole, respectively, by oxidation with chromium peak. The VNIISNDV Institute has introduced a chemical method for producing obepin by oxidation of methyl alcohol paracresol with potassium persulfate. This method is of great importance for industry, as it opens up the possibility of creating artificial essential oils (aniseed, fennel, etc.).
• Citral is found in lemon wormwood and snakehead essential oil. Has a strong lemon scent. It is used as an essential component for the preparation of compositions and fragrances. Previously, citral was obtained mainly from coriander oil. In recent years, the VNYISNDV Institute and the Kaluga Combine have developed a technology for the synthesis of citral from isoprene and acetylene. And although the synthesis is complex, multistage, but, given that citral is also a starting raw material for many syntheses, the method is very promising, despite its complexity.
• Phenylacetic aldehyde has not been found in nature. Obtained by oxidation of phenylethyl alcohol with a chromium mixture. Has a strong hyacinth scent. Used in compositions to give them a floral scent.
• Cyclamenaldehyde has not been found in nature. It is synthesized from cumene, the synthesis is multistage and complex. Has a strong odor reminiscent of cyclamen flowers. Used in floral arrangements and fragrances.

Ketones(ionone, methylionone) are used in the perfumery and cosmetic industry for the preparation of compositions and fragrances.

• Ionone, when diluted, resembles the smell of a violet. Previously obtained from citral-containing essential oils (coriander and others). Currently obtained by condensation of synthetic citral with acetone.
• Methylionone (Iralia), like ionone, is obtained from oxidized coriander oil or synthetic citral.

Nitro compounds derivatives of the aromatic series (amber musk, musk-ketone) have not only the smell of musk, but are also fixatives, which is widely used in the preparation of compositions and fragrances.

• Amber musk has not been found in nature. Prepared synthetically from metacresol and urea. The synthesis is multi-stage and complex.
• Musk-ketone, like amber musk, has a musky scent, but a different shade. Synthesized from metaxylene and isobutyl alcohol.

Foundations. As a base used in industry, indole can be cited, which is used as a component in compositions and fragrances with a jasmine scent. Found in nature in oils of jasmine, neroli, orange flowers, etc. Indole is obtained synthetically.

Synthetic perfumery components are cheaper than natural ones, but not worse in quality. Synthetics in this case is a cleaner and more practical product that does not depend on the vagaries of nature and the type of soil. When, at the beginning of the 19th century, chemists managed to obtain the scent of a rose not from rose essential oil, but from citronella, it became clear that from now on perfumery would only develop in collaboration with chemistry.

The triumphal procession of synthetic components continues for two centuries. It became possible to obtain cheaper and easier valuable aromas of violet, vanilla and other traditional constituents of perfumes. It was possible to recreate the previously elusive smells of lilac and lily of the valley for perfumery.

With the help of synthetic components, you can create not only a specific plant or animal scent, but also a complex aroma of forest, steppe, jungle, sea coast or morning air over a field with wheat. Nowadays, there are practically no unrealizable perfume fantasies. Aldehydes have given perfumers a powerful means of expression.

Synthetic fragrances include the following.

Limonene - has a lemon scent, found in essential orange, lemon and caraway oils. Limonene is obtained by fractional distillation of essential oils, as well as synthetically from terpineol, by heating the latter with bisulfate.

Citral - emits a lemon scent. Contained in lemon wormwood and snakehead essential oil. Citral is obtained by chemical processing of coriander oil, as well as synthetically from isoprene and acetylene.

Geraniol - has a rose scent. Found in rose oil, geranium oil and lemon wormwood. Geraniol is obtained from essential oils by combining with calcium chloride.

Nerol - creates a rose scent, but more delicate than geraniol. Contained in rose, neroli, bergamot and other oils. The product is obtained by reduction of citral or isomerization of geraniol.

Benzaldehyde - gives off a bitter almond smell. It is contained in oils of bitter almond, orange, acacia, hyacinth, etc. It is obtained by oxidation of toluene.

Preservatives

Expanding the range of cosmetic products requires paying due attention to the creation of effective preservatives.

Many cosmetic products are a breeding ground for microorganisms. Powders (talc, starch, etc.) are susceptible to contamination with spores. Most waxes and emulsifiers, plant and animal extracts of proteins that make up cosmetic products can be a source of carbon and nitrogen for microorganisms, as well as a material for energy processes. Mineral salts added to cosmetics also promote the development of microorganisms. Biologically active substances used in cosmetics are stimulators of the growth of bacteria and fungi.

In addition, when raw materials come into contact with atmospheric oxygen, especially at elevated storage temperatures, oxidation of products occurs. In this case, the properties of the substance change and the raw material becomes unsuitable for the production of cosmetic products.

Cosmetic products without the use of special additives lose their validity practically within a few weeks or even days. Preservatives are used to increase their shelf life. The introduction of a preservative does not exclude the need to comply with the sanitary and hygienic rules at cosmetic enterprises, since this tool does not give the desired effect in case of massive microbial contamination.

Jars and bottles intended for packaging cosmetic products should be well rinsed with an antiseptic solution (benzyl alcohol, resorcinol, furacilin, etc.) and protected from dust, which is a source of spores.

Preservation of the product must ensure the safety of the cosmetic product and the safety of its use during the warranty period. In view of this, a number of requirements are imposed on preservatives:

A wide range of antimicrobial action, covering all types of microflora found in cosmetic preparations;

Manifestation of activity in low concentrations and its preservation in the widest pH range;

Good solubility in water and poor in oils;

Ability not to be inactivated by other ingredients and packaging material, not to decompose and not evaporate during the guaranteed shelf life of products;

Safety for human health, i.e. lack of acuteness and chronic toxicity, the ability to cause allergic reactions and other adverse effects;

Preservation of color, smell, and sometimes taste of products with the introduction of preservatives;

Availability of receipt and low cost.

A universal preservative that would satisfy all these requirements and can be used in any cosmetic products has not yet been found. Currently, not individual preservatives are more and more widely used, but their mixtures, acting in various combinations with each other, having a synergistic effect and having a wide spectrum of action.

Preservatives include formaldehyde, sorbic acid, ethyl alcohol, citral, benzyl acetate, benzoic acid, essential oils, etc.

Benzoic acid is a common preservative used in the form of a sodium salt and is highly soluble in water.

Formaldehyde is a well-known antimicrobial agent. An aqueous solution of formaldehyde is used for the preservation of cosmetic products in concentrations from 0.05 to 0.2%.

Sorbic acid is a substance that is poorly soluble in water, but well soluble in organic solvents. The potassium salt of sorbic acid is also used, which is small, almost white flakes, readily soluble in water, and therefore is often used instead of sorbic acid. Sorbic acid isopropylene alcohol also belongs to the category of preservatives.

Vanillic acid - Vanillic acid ethyl ester is used as a preservative in the food industry and cosmetics.

Germal is a hygroscopic white powder, tasteless and odorless, readily soluble in water, but insoluble in oils. It is combined with all types of cosmetic raw materials, and protein products and surfactants enhance its antimicrobial activity. Storage stable, has a wide working pH range. It is used for the preservation of children's cosmetics, protein preparations (hair products), skin care products, and is part of aerosol preparations.

Dovitsil-200, like germal, belongs to the group of formaldehyde donors. It is a hygroscopic white crystalline substance with a low odor, highly soluble in water and almost insoluble in oils. Dovitsil and its complexes with other preservatives are introduced into face and hand creams, shaving products, shampoos, protein preparations for baths, and especially often into various protein preparations for hair.

Dyes

Perfumery and cosmetic products contain various dyes. They are introduced into decorative cosmetics, creams, soaps, shampoos, lotions and other products to give them a cosmetic appearance.

Certain requirements are imposed on dyes used in the perfumery and cosmetic industry:

The fineness of grinding (dispersion) - with high dispersion, the color of the perfume product improves, the intensity of its effect increases;

Coverage - the ability of a dye mixed with a binder to cover a surface so that it does not shine through the applied paint layer;

Coloring power - when mixed with pigments of a different color, the dye should give the mixture its own color;

Lightfastness - the ability to retain color when exposed to light;

Low-capacity - low-capacity dyes are the most economical;

Chemical stability - the ability to maintain its color properties under the influence of acids, alkalis, etc .;

No toxic effects on the skin.

Dyes are classified into inorganic and organic.

Inorganic (mineral) dyes are oxides and salts of various metals. By origin, they can be natural and artificial. Natural dyes are obtained from the earth. They have high chemical resistance, but insufficient brightness and color saturation. These include:

Ocher is a natural pigment. Ocher is distinguished by color, light, medium and golden yellow. Ocher is resistant to light, weathering, alkalis and weak acids. Ocher is a part of decorative cosmetics.

Siena is a type of ocher. It can be unbaked, yellow-olive in color and burnt, brown-orange in color. It is part of make-up paints, mascara, eye shadow.

Mummy is a natural red pigment obtained by roasting iron-bearing ores. Resistant to light, alkalis, acids. It is used in the production of decorative cosmetics.

Umber is a natural brown pigment. Formed during the weathering of iron ores containing manganese. The chemical composition is close to ocher. Resistant to light, alkalis. When heated, it becomes shiny and dark. It is used in the production of decorative cosmetics.

Artificial mineral pigments are chemically produced oxides and metal salts. They are lightfast and have good hiding power.

Ultramarine is a pigment obtained by fusing kaolin, soda and sulfur. Depending on the ratio of the starting materials and the reaction conditions, it has different colors (from green to purple). The most widely used is ultramarine blue. Resistant to color, alkalis, but decomposed by acids. It is used in the production of mascara, shadows, make-up paints.

Chromium oxide is a dark green pigment. It is obtained by calcining a chromium peak in the presence of sulfur and other reducing agents. Light resistant. It is used in the production of mascara, eye shadow.

Zinc oxide and titanium dioxide are used as white dyes.

Organic dyes include carbon black, the most common black dye. Formed by incomplete combustion of wood, oil, coal and natural resins (gas soot). In the production of decorative cosmetics, gas soot is used for the manufacture of mascara and shadows.

Artificial mixtures of organic dyes with minerals:

Carmine varnish is a deep red powder, insoluble in water. It is a compound of alumina with carminic acid. Gives a red suspension. It is used in the production of lipstick.

Kraplak is a bright red pigment with a bluish tint. Obtained by the action of aluminum and calcium salts on alizarin in the presence of alizarin oil. It is used in the production of lipsticks, blush, varnishes and enamels for nails.

Eosin is a red crystalline powder, soluble in alcohol but insoluble in water. Obtained by the action of bromine on fluorescein in the presence of sodium chlorite. Produces bright pink solutions. It is used to a limited extent (up to 30%) in the production of hard-to-remove lipstick.

It should be borne in mind that when using such lipstick, inflammation of the red border of the lips is possible.

Rhodamines (rhodamine 6G) are purple crystals, soluble in water and alcohol. Lilac solutions are given. Rhodamine C - red-violet crystals, soluble in water and alcohol. Rhodamines are used as independent dyes and mixed with eosin. Up to 30% of them are injected into lipsticks, blush, and make-up paints.

Disinfectants

and haemostatic agents

Disinfectants

When serving visitors, a hairdresser must comply with the established sanitary and hygienic rules. All kinds of microorganisms, including pathogens, can be found on the surface of tools used for cutting, shaving, and combing hair. All instruments must be disinfected to prevent transmission of infection.

Disinfection is the destruction of microorganisms in various ways. Chemicals that kill microorganisms are called bactericidal. They must meet the following requirements:

Dissolve well in water;

Acting in low concentrations and killing microns in a short time

roorganisms;

Be sufficiently stable during storage;

Be cheap and easy to store and transport.

Products that are used to disinfect instruments include chloramine, formalin, ethyl alcohol, carbolic acid, etc.

The choice of disinfectants, their concentration, the amount and duration of the disinfection period depend on the material from which the instrument is made.

Disinfectants are divided into two types:

Physical (mechanical cleaning and washing with detergent).

Physical cleaning includes:

1) annealing the cutting parts of tools;

2) ironing (linen);

3) sterilization (boiling);

4) dry sterilization (using ultraviolet rays);

Chemical - these include: ethyl alcohol 70%; hydrogen peroxide 3%; chloramine 1-3%; alaminol 1%; septodor 1%, etc.

Chloramine is a white crystalline powder, sometimes with a yellowish tinge, with a faint chlorine odor. It can be stored for several years. Possesses high antimicrobial activity, well soluble in water. In hairdressing salons, a 0.3% aqueous solution is used to disinfect tools for combing hair (3 g of chloramine per 1 liter of water with a temperature not exceeding 60 ° C). The chloramine solution should be on the hairdresser's dressing table in a special container with a closed lid. The instruments are immersed in the solution for 15-20 minutes. Hairdresser's linen is disinfected in a 0.5% solution, which should be changed every 5 days.

Ethyl alcohol is a colorless transparent liquid with a pungent odor; it combines with water in any ratio and burns. Used as a disinfectant. 88% raw, 95.5% rectified and 96.5% high purity alcohol are produced.

Alcohol denatured alcohol - crude ethyl alcohol containing a dye that stains the alcohol in a blue-violet color. Comes to the hairdresser's 82% strength. Metal instruments are disinfected with alcohol of a certain purity and strength (at least 70%); to do this, filter it daily through a layer of cotton wool or gauze, and rinse the jar with hot water. The alcohol is completely replaced after 150 procedures. When disinfecting, the cutting surface of the instruments must be completely immersed in alcohol for 15 minutes.

Formalin is an aqueous solution of formaldehyde (a colorless gas with a pungent odor, readily soluble in water). Formalin is a colorless liquid that becomes cloudy during long-term storage, as this produces a white precipitate with a specific odor. Used as a 4% aqueous solution (100 ml formalin per liter of water) to disinfect new unused shaving brushes.

For cleaning the working room and other premises of the hairdressing salon, a 0.3-0.5% aqueous solution of bleach or a 0.5% solution of chloramine is used.

When cleaning the premises of a hairdressing salon, you can use disinfectants used in everyday life.

Polidez. It is prepared: 8-10 g of polydesis per 1 liter of water, a 1% solution of polydesis is obtained. It is necessary to change the label on the polidese daily. The date and the inscription "Polidez 1%" must be indicated on the label.

Alaminol 1%. It is used for disinfection of things, furniture.

Virkon is a balanced stable mixture of peroxide compounds, PAF, organic acids and an inorganic buffer system. The main constituent is potassium peroxysulfate, which has a strong oxidizing effect. They are used for the simultaneous cleaning and disinfection of walls, floors, equipment, tools, glass objects, etc. Virkon has a bactericidal effect (one percent solution, exposure 10 minutes); tubercolicidal action (3% solution, exposure 5 minutes); virulecidal action (including against hepatitis "B" - 10% solution, exposure 10 minutes); fungicidal action (1% solution, exposure 10 minutes).

To prepare a solution of the required concentration, the powder must be added to warm water.

Hemostatic agents

Bleeding can be stopped with special tools.

1. Hydrogen peroxide of 3-6% concentration, however, it stops the blood very slowly.

2. Aluminum alum is produced in the form of a pencil, but in this form it is impossible to use alum, since various diseases can be transmitted in this way. Better to prepare a solution of alum in hydrogen peroxide. To do this, the styptic pencil is crushed into powder and poured into a 3-6% peroxide solution in small portions. Alum is added until a certain amount of alum grains remains at the bottom of the bottle - the prepared solution becomes saturated. The solution should be stored in a dark vial with a tightly closed stopper.

3. Fibrin is a fat-free film. Produced in the form of films in glass tubes.

4. Iodine, if a small wound, then on it, if a large one, then around the wound.

Iodine, lugol solution, yodinol, yodinat have bactericidal and antiviral effects.

5. Hydrogen beroxide is a colorless liquid, odorless. To cleanse wounds.

Perfumery products

The history of perfumery is inextricably linked with the history of mankind. Even in ancient times, people realized that by burning wood and resins, you can improve the taste of food. Then came the time of the Egyptians, who glorified their gods with fumigation and made fragrant ointments and aromatic oils, which accompanied various rituals and supplemented women's toilets.

The Greeks, on the other hand, brought new aromas from their expeditions, and in ancient Rome, the healing power was given to the smells. The invasions of the barbarians have suspended the use of fragrances in the West. And then the peoples of Islam began to develop the art of perfumery. The Arabs and Persians turned into incomparable connoisseurs of spices, inventing the alembic and improving distillation.

It was necessary to wait until the 12th century for the Christian world to rediscover the pleasure of smells when using them, whether for hygiene purposes or simply for pleasure, or to fight the plague or miasma. The 16th century combined the profession of a glove maker with that of a perfumer. perfumed gloves came into vogue. If the medieval society practiced baths and ablutions, then during the Renaissance and further, in the 16th and 17th centuries, they abandoned their use. As a revenge, the consumption of fragrances doubled to mask bad smells.

The 17th century offers a choice of civets and musk, to which delicate, floral and fruity scents were preferred during the Age of Enlightenment. The 17th century is known as the age of seduction, rich in new scents (even ashes were smelled on the Wednesday of the first week of Great Lent), as well as in bottles. In the 19th century, advances in chemistry made it possible to artificially reproduce smells that exist in nature, but also create new ones. This was the beginning of the perfume industry and Grasse established his mastery in the processing of floral raw materials.

Our century, not cheap for either luxury or progress, has not stopped confirming the place of perfumery in the privileged world of art, but also in the pitiless world of commercial competition.

3.1. Odor classification

Each major raw materials company (namely, they began to put things in order in the world of fragrances) has its own table of smells. It is generally accepted that almost everyone distinguishes floral, chypre, and woody groups. It is advisable to designate citrus, fern and leather families. (They continue to divide more and more fractionally or, conversely, merge, but we will focus on the most general scheme.) Armed with such a system as a kind of compass, you can determine in advance what is worth tasting first and what can be left for later.

Flower family

It can be said without exaggeration - the flower family is the most numerous. The fragrances of flowers such as rose, violet, jasmine, lily of the valley and others are so attractive in themselves that some modern perfumers, like their colleagues a couple of hundred years ago, make perfumes with only the dominant scent of one flower, based on natural or synthetic raw materials. There are also more complex floral scents, consisting of a whole bouquet. In such perfumes, you first feel the aroma of one flower, then gradually another, a third, and so on begins to sound.

This family includes floral aldehyde scents, which, as the name implies, are obtained from synthetic raw materials. The standard of this subgroup is, of course, Сhanel №5. There is also a floral-woody-fruity, consisting of a bouquet of fresh floral aromas and sweet fruity, as if powdered with the restraint of a woody spirit.

Citrus family

When creating perfumery products of this group, citrus essential oils of bergamot, lemon, mandarin, orange are used. Perfume and eau de toilette with the scent of this family is an absolutely win-win option when buying. If a floral scent can cause sympathy for some and disgust of others, then the overwhelming majority of people associate citrus scent with freshness in its purest form. In the citrus-floral-chypre subgroup, tart freshness is replaced by a delicate floral sweetness.

Chypre family

Her birth is associated with the creation of a perfume by a famous perfumer and businessman. The perfumer managed to make the characteristic heavy smell of oak moss more airy thanks to the scent of jasmine. The result is a complex composition with a clear initial green note, followed by a smooth transition from one subtle shade to another. Products belonging to this group are interesting in that the aromas are not very recognizable, especially in combination with others. Without a doubt, the scent of patchouli essential oil - a subtropical shrub - is not nearly as familiar as rose or violet. Oakmoss, smelling of both tree bark and sunny earth, and the pleasant moisture of the forest. It is these fragrances, together with the aroma of incense and bergamot, make up, in one combination or another, a strange and attractive chypre ensemble.

Tree family

The aromas united in it are the founders of perfumery. First there was a fire in which a tree was burning. And if its bark was fragrant, then a light suffocating wave of smoke and the fragrance of fragrant wood harmoniously merged together. Humanity has not forgotten its first perfumery experiences. They have become classics, which now no longer seem burdened by the burden of centuries, because they are used in a new reading. The light scent of cedar, for example, separating, as in a gust of wind, from the smoky stream, saturated with the scent of sandalwood with pungent citrus notes, is a testament to the belonging of the perfume to the woody family.

Sometimes such a perfume can strike with unexpected and pleasant bitterness of wormwood, sage, thyme, which is inherent in the subgroup of woody-scented odors. For lovers of abyss in a warm powdery cloud - as if a woody-amber perfume was specially created. And for those who like the thrill, you need to look for their aroma among woody spicy products. A sharp emotional shade is given to it by nutmeg, cinnamon, pepper, cloves.

Watery notes, which appeared in perfumery quite recently, only in the 90s, superbly refresh woody compositions.

Amber family

The scent of amber (oriental or oriental) perfume is sweet-sexy-enticing, sometimes a little sugary. It is he who most of all corresponds to the traditional idea of ​​the ancient peoples about the real divine aroma. No wonder "amber" means "fragrant", "fragrant". The oriental composition is made up of such “sweet” components as vanilla, incense gum, and cistus. This dizzying bouquet is sometimes given a bit of animal passion with the help of musk.

Traditional oriental fragrances, heady and heavy, were very popular in the 70s and 80s of the XX century. Their modern interpretation suggests an easier version. This is achieved through the appearance of fruity and fresh citrus notes in the compositions.

In another way, it is called fougere, from the French word fougere, which means fern in translation. The ancestor of this family was the creation of the Fougere Royale ("royal fern") from Houbigant. A true masculine community of fougere fragrances, it matches the image of a strong and at the same time sophisticated man. And all thanks to the original combination, which also includes bergamot, lavender and moss. These components give a "killer" aroma in its strength. And it is not surprising that women like them so much, sometimes so much that they want to use such perfumes themselves. In this group, fougere-aromatic and fougere-fresh (or water) subgroups are distinguished. The fact that the ferns themselves do not smell is irrelevant, because the variations on this theme created by perfumers are very convincing.

Leather family

A small but very courageous family. It is based on the smell of tobacco and dry skin, from which sometimes a light aroma of a flower meadow emanates.

These fragrances are another "forbidden" magnet for women, and they are increasingly borrowed from their loved ones.

The leathery scent can be part of the chypre composition. Then devoid of sentimentality, it softens to such an extent that it can be used even by a woman who does not want to scent extravagantly.

3.2. Types of perfumery products

All types of perfumes can be grouped according to the following characteristics: consistency, nature of the smell, content of the composition, persistence of smell, purpose and place of production.

By consistency, perfumes are liquid, solid and powdery.

Liquid perfumes are pleasantly smelling alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic solutions of perfume compositions with a floral or fantasy scent and are used as aromatizers.

Solid perfume is a waxy mass, most often in the form of a pencil, saturated with a perfume composition and painted in a specific color. Used for rubbing the skin.

Powdered perfume is a dried plant, ground into powder and perfumed with a perfume composition. Used to perfume linen.

By the nature of the smell, perfumes are floral, with the smell of a flower and fantasy, combining several smells of flowers or smells that are not found in nature.

Like music, smell lives on in time. As a rule, in every real fragrance there are three notes or tones, corresponding to three stages of perception. The "high tones" (head note) are the shortest and fade after about 10-15 minutes. They are responsible for creating the first impression of the scent when you open the bottle or inhale the scent immediately after applying the perfume to your skin. “Mid tones” (heart note) is the main theme of the scent, it appears after the disappearance of high tones, after 20-30 minutes and “sounds” at different times, depending on the idea of ​​the perfumer. The longest are the "low tones" (final note): they form the basis of the perfume and are remembered by others. For persistent spirits, the final note lasts from several hours to several days. People with a very fine sense of smell are able to catch the scent of a good perfume even a week later. In modern compositions, for example, the sequence of notes is sometimes broken. For example, the top notes and the heart notes can sound simultaneously, or the heart notes immediately unfold, passing into a train, bypassing the head ones. There are perfumes that smell evenly, without transitions.

Spirits of the "Extra" group contain at least 10% of the perfume composition (based on the weight of the perfume), and the persistence of the smell must be maintained for at least 60 hours.

Perfumes of the "A" group include spirits containing, as a rule, at least 10% of the composition and having a fragrance lasting for at least 40 hours.

Spirits of the "Extra" and "A" groups are produced in artistically designed cases and boxes.

Perfumes of group "B" include spirits containing not less than 5% of the composition and not more than 10% of water and have a persistence of odor for at least 30 hours.

The group "B" perfumes include mainly perfumes with a floral scent, containing at least 5% of the composition and 30% of water. Odor persistence for at least 24 hours.

Spirits of groups "B" and "V" are produced in cases and without cases.

Colognes

These are aqueous-alcoholic solutions of perfume compositions with a floral or fantasy scent.

Colognes are used as hygienic, refreshing and flavoring agents.

Depending on the composition, colognes are divided into two groups: floral and hygienic,

Floral colognes are used as a hygiene and fragrance product. The hygienic value of colognes lies in the disinfecting and refreshing effect of alcohol and aromatic substances.

The group of floral colognes includes colognes with a fancy scent.

Colognes, like perfumes, according to the content of the composition (depending on the quality) are divided into four groups: extra, A, B and C.

Extra group colognes include premium quality colognes containing from 3 to 5% of the composition. Smell persistence not less than 24 hours. Produced in artistically designed cases and boxes.

Group A colognes include colognes containing 3 to 5% of the composition. Odor persistence for at least 24 hours.

Colognes of group B include colognes containing from 3 to 4% of the composition. Odor persistence is not standardized.

Colognes of group B include colognes containing from 2 to 3% of the composition. Odor persistence is not standardized.

Colognes of groups A, B and C are produced in a variety of cases and without them.

Hygienic colognes differ in that they are used only for hygienic purposes. Their smell should be pleasant, but not strong and not particularly persistent. The content of the composition is up to 2%, and citrus essential oils are included in the composition of hygienic colognes. The alcohol strength does not exceed 60%.

Toilet waters

Eau de toilette takes an intermediate place between perfume and cologne. It is a perfume with a relatively low odor. The content of the essential composition in the aqueous-alcoholic solution is usually from 3 to 10-15%. Eau de toilette is produced either as an independent product, or in a collection with the perfume of the same name. Eau de toilette contains impurities that determine its properties. The content of the fragrant composition in them is greater than in colognes, but less than in perfumes.

Cleansing preparations

4.1. Toilet soap

The earliest description of soap making was found on Sumerian clay tablets dating back to 2500 BC. The method was based on a mixture of wood ash and water, which was boiled and fat was melted in it, obtaining a soap solution. However, this solution did not have a definite name, no evidence of its use survived, and what is considered to be soap was not produced from it.

The invention of the soap itself is often attributed to the Romans and dates back to the first millennium BC. Legend has it that the word Soap comes from the name of Mount Sapo, on which sacrifices were made to the gods. A mixture of melted animal fat and wood ash from the sacrificial fire was washed away by the rain into the clay soil of the Tiber River bank. And the women who washed linen there noticed that thanks to this mixture, clothes are washed much easier.

Objective evidence of the emergence of handicraft soap making was obtained during the excavation of the ruins of the Roman city of Pompeii. Archaeologists have discovered a soap factory and found ready-made soap bars. As you know, the Romans were famous for their public baths - thermal baths, but washing was not the main purpose of visiting them. The Roman bath, like the Greek one, had a more social function - people gathered in a large pool, relaxed and had conversations. The soap that was produced at that time was too harsh for the skin and was only used for washing.

But the inhabitants of medieval Europe did not differ in cleanliness at all, which, among other things, caused terrible epidemics. The fashion for cleanliness returned to Europe only by the 17th century. At the same time, the craft of soap making was finally formed. The ingredients for making the soap varied from region to region. In the north, animal fat was used to make soap, and in the south, olive oil was used, which made the soap excellent quality.

Patent for Purity: A major step towards widespread commercial soap production was taken in 1791, when French chemist Nicolas Leblanc patented a process for making soda ash from chalk, salt and charcoal. Twenty years later, another Frenchman, Michel Eugene Chevreul, established the chemical composition of fats and obtained fatty acids. These two discoveries fantastically laid the foundation for all modern soap making. Entrepreneurial people immediately realized the profits of making soap on an industrial scale. A stormy organization of "soap" companies and the widespread construction of soap factories began.

Modern bar soaps are vegetable and animal fats treated with caustic soda. Soda is taken, dissolved in water, heated, melted, purified and cooled lard is added to this solution and stirred until a homogeneous mass is formed. The resulting mixture is poured into molds and allowed to harden. The properties and quality of soap can be improved by adding coconut oil to its composition, which is widely used in cosmetics, including in the manufacture of liquid soaps and shampoos. Coconut oil makes the soap softer in action and increases its foaming properties.

Soap can be prepared in several ways: hot, cold, remelting and planing.

The foam that forms during lathering consists of fatty acid salts, which have the ability to break down fat. In addition, soap has an alkaline reaction, and all this in a certain way affects the condition of the skin. At the end of the day, makeup residues, dust, dirt accumulate on the skin, all this is held together by sweat and skin fat. Soap is able to break down sticky dirt by breaking down fats. But the skin has its own special fats - lipids. Soap foam does not understand where the necessary fats are and where the excess ones are, and destroys everything. Therefore, after washing, the skin becomes dry and sensitive.

Soap has now taken on a new context. Now it is becoming an elite product. The soap, which is being developed by modern cosmetologists, is significantly different from the one in which we understood in such detail. This soap does not dry the skin, it not only perfectly cleanses, but sometimes replaces the rest of the care - lotions, tonics, creams.

Toilet soap is produced in 4 groups: 1, 2, "Extra" and "D".

Soap requirements

1. Should form a stable foam.

2. Should dissolve impurities.

3. Should rinse off well.

4. Must have a pleasant smell and color.

5. Must not have harmful effects.

6. Must have a good aesthetic appearance.

Classification

Toilet soap. All the great variety of varieties of toilet soaps are created with the sole purpose of caring for the skin. Such soap should have a level of acidity close to neutral, and contain special components. So, toilet soaps are enriched with herbal extracts that soothe the skin; tonic fruit concentrates; almond, coconut and cocoa butter to soften dry sensitive skin; nutritional components - milk proteins, lanolin, avocado oil; moisturizing agents - glycerin and aloe vera; as well as antioxidant vitamins: they protect the skin from premature aging.

Among the huge variety of varieties of toilet soaps, it is not difficult to choose the one that is right for your