Ancient Cossack cuisine. Cossack cuisine

Recipes of ancient Cossack dishes Here are the recipes. who came to us from the distant past. Many of them are forgotten today. But the old Don cuisine has its own flavor... Try it and you will feel it... CARP WITH WHITE TABLE WINE (beginning of the 19th century, Rostov). Pieces of large carp with milk, chopped 2 celery, 4 parsley, 4 sour cucumbers, 2 nutmegs, put in a saucepan, sprinkle with simple and English pepper, pour cucumber pickle in half with white wine. Simmer over low heat. Mix a spoonful of butter with a spoonful of flour, dilute with strained fish sauce and pour over the fish on a dish. KRUGLIK (village of Starocherkasskaya, 18th century). Mix ground meat with chopped chicken meat, fry with parsley roots in goose or duck fat. Roll out the dough prepared for the pie in a large frying pan, spread the cooked minced meat on it with a layer. Bake in the oven or oven. Watch for juiciness. TARANCHUK (Lunch from the kitchen of the lower Don, XVIII-XIX centuries). Small pieces of lamb pulp are fried in boiling oil. Put in pots, pour vegetable broth and add chopped potatoes, carrots, parsnip root, spices and stew until tender with the addition of lamb fat, hot pepper and vinegar to taste. SOLYANKA KAZACHIA (near the village of Starocherkasskaya, 19th century). A kilogram of finely chopped pork, 150 grams of bacon, two cloves of garlic, an onion, a little broth are thoroughly mixed and stuffed with a thin pork intestine with a quarter dressing. Boil in salted water for 15 minutes. Then fry in pork fat with sauerkraut. FISHING KULESH (known for a long time, recorded in the village of Vesely). Washed millet is cooked for 10 minutes. Salted fish is boiled separately (more often - sula). It is cut into small pieces. Boiled millet is seasoned with onions fried in vegetable oil, pieces of fish, herbs, mixed thoroughly. TRAVELING PIE (From the cuisine of the Middle Don, XVIII-XIX centuries). A piece of pork, beef or lamb pulp is stuffed with garlic slices and fried in an oven or oven until tender. Cut into layers a centimeter thick and put on a rolled out dough (for a pie). Sliced ​​tomatoes are placed on top, poured with fat and fried onions and covered with a net of dough. Bake in the oven or oven until done. Porridge and Noodles (which are more than three hundred years old, Middle Don). Wheat porridge boiled in milk, seasoned with suzma and raisins. Deeply boiled noodles are seasoned with fried onions and small pieces of wild duck. Served with soaked blackthorn. LUNCH IN ONE PAN (stanitsa Starocherkasskaya, 19th century). Pork flesh, salted and peppered, fried in boiling fat. Put in a cast iron or thick saucepan, along with chopped potatoes, white root, carrots, 2-3 onions, add cold water and stew. Before readiness, chopped tomatoes, soaked blackthorn, 2-3 cloves are added. LENTEN BORSCH (Middle and Lower Don, XVIII century). Several large raw onions are cooked on low heat. Then they are taken out and shredded cabbage, carrots, parsnips, potatoes, green beans (peas) are put into the broth. Before readiness, crushed garlic, bay leaf, pepper are added and seasoned with onion and herbs fried in vegetable oil. EAR IN OLD CHERKASS (Middle Don). Small fish, ruff, perch, roach, rudd, bleak, gutted, gills removed. Filled with cold water. Onions, salt, spices are added. Boil over low heat for 40-60 minutes. Vinegar - to taste. EAR IN ELIZABETH (Lower Don, the village of Elizavetinskaya). The fish is gutted and the gills are removed. Fish, coarsely chopped 2-3 potatoes, onion, 2-3 tomatoes, spices are placed in cold water. Before readiness, dill and parsley are added. Only broth and separately pieces of fish cooked and sprinkled with salted fish broth are served at the table. FISH STuffed with Porridge (Lower Don, village Elizavetinskaya, XVIII-XIX centuries). Don fish /bream, carp, carp/ are cleaned and gutted. Caviar is separated and mixed with semi-cooked rice or millet. The fish carcass is kept in white wine for an hour. Stuffed with caviar with porridge and placed in a deep frying pan. Pour in sunflower oil and fried onions and small fish broth and stew. Spices - to taste. BREAM BAKED WITH PORRIDGE (it has long been known, especially in the Lower Don). Large bream is cleaned of scales and entrails. Filled with millet porridge mixed with caviar. Sew up. Bake in the oven or oven, monitor the juiciness. You can lubricate with butter from time to time. FISH DON, STEW (village Elizavetinskaya, XVIII-XIX centuries). Cut off the heads and tails of the Don small fish. Gut, rinse well, salt, lay back up in a cast iron pan. Pour 1/3 cup of water and vinegar, 1/2 cup of vegetable oil, put bay leaf and allspice. Simmer over low heat for 3.4-5 hours until the oil has evaporated. FISH SOLYANKA (Rostov, 19th century). Finely chop the onion, fry, add one and a half tablespoons of flour and fry, dilute with water. Put small pieces of fish, bay leaf, pepper, 10 olives, 10 finely chopped champignons, 2 pickles, a little fresh and sour cabbage into the sauce. When ready, add cucumber pickle, sour cream to taste, sprinkle with herbs, stew. Crayfish in a festive way (village Elizavetinskaya, 19th century). Pour one and a half glasses of fresh sour cream, half a glass of strong red wine into a saucepan with water, put a spoonful of butter, a little salt, cumin and dill. As soon as it boils, put in 20-30 crayfish, cover and cook for 30 minutes. BREAM WITH HORSERADISE AND APPLES (Middle Don, XVIII century). Bream cut, salt, pour boiling weak solution of vinegar. Keep covered for 5 minutes. Broth of parsley roots, celery, carrots, 2 onions, pour the fish in a saucepan and simmer over high heat. Put fish slices on a dish and shift with grated horseradish with sour grated apples and lemon slices. BAKE PIKE WITH PORK LAD (Middle Don, XVII century). Peel a large pike, salt it, cover it with thin plates of lard, tying it with threads. Roast on a spit, while pouring the dripping sauce. Fire - not hot, preferably burnt coals. STARLET WITH CHAMPAGNE (A rare dish from the 18th century). Peel 3-4 pounds of sterlet, cut into pieces, wash, wipe with a napkin, put in one row in a silver saucepan. Put 1/4 pound butter, salt, juice of 1/2 lemon. Pour in 2 tbsp. champagne. Boil and serve immediately. CHAPRA DONSKAYA (stanitsa Starocherkasskaya, XVIII-XIX centuries). Place raw in a jar or pot: 3 bell peppers, half bitter, a few tomatoes, three cloves of garlic, a branch of dill, spice, bay leaf. Boil tomato juice and pour over vegetables. Close the lid tightly and pasteurize for 10-15 minutes. Seasoning for various meat and fish dishes. DON gingerbread (Lower Don, 19th century). To a pound of warmed nardek or honey, add a tablespoon of soda and a pound and a half of flour. Knead into a stiff dough and leave in the room for two days. Then mix and roll into a layer, cut with a mold and put on a frying pan poured with oil. Brush top with beaten egg or sprinkle with powdered sugar and raisins. Kvass from blackthorn (Starocherkasskaya village, XVIII-XIX centuries). Wipe 1 kg of turn. Squeeze pour 4 liters of water, boil for 15 minutes. Cool, strain and add 300 g of sugar, boil again. Cool the syrup and pour in the raw sloe juice. Add 15 g of yeast, stir, bottle, close tightly with corks, and stand for 5 days. BREAD KVASS (Rostov-Don, XVII-XIX centuries). Pour a kilogram of rye crackers with 8-10 liters of boiling water, close tightly, let stand for 4-5 hours. Strain, then add 25 g. yeast and 300 g of sugar. After the appearance of foam, strain a second time and bottle, put 3-4 raisins into each and cork tightly, hold for 3 days. REFRESHING DRINKS (Vesely Farm, XVIII century). Pour a pinch of black and red pepper, a teaspoon of diluted mustard into a cup of cabbage brine. Before use, add half a teaspoon of baking soda. A glass of syuzma /sour milk/, dissolve in a glass of cold water. Add raisins and some vanilla. DRINKS WITH PICKED STURDY (known for a long time). Mix one glass of soaked turn, 3 glasses of strong coffee. Honey - to taste. Mix half a glass of suzma with half a glass of soaked sloes and dilute with water. DRINKS FROM HERBS (ancient folk remedies). In a jug / 2.5 liters / put a tablespoon of thyme, sweet clover, mint, two cloves, a piece of ginger, two tablespoons of tea. Boil and strain. Add honey to taste. Drink hot. For 2.5 liters of water, a pinch of mint and tea, two cloves, two glasses of red wine. Drink hot. DRINKS WITH DON WINE (Middle Don, XVIII-XIX centuries). Linden blossom, thyme, mint, brew strong, strain, add an equal volume of white wine. Drink hot. Mix a glass of Don wine, 2.5 cups of hot milk, a tablespoon of honey. CHERRY DRESS (Middle Don, XVIII century). Pour a full pot of ripe cherries, tie with rags, coat with dough, put in the oven after the bread. The next day, take it out, put it on a sieve, let the juice drain. Wipe the berries. For 2 st. puree - 1 tbsp. Sahara. Beat until sugar dissolves, put on ice. FIGS FROM GRAPES (Rostov, Nizhny Don, 18th century). Make syrup from one glass of water and sugar. Dip small bunches of grapes in hot syrup, then roll them in powdered sugar and dry them in a light oven or oven. Store in a dry closed jar. NARDEK (watermelon honey) (Lower Don, XVIII century). Squeeze the pulp of ripe table watermelons, pass through a press. Drain into an enameled or copper basin. Put on fire and bring to a boil. Stirring constantly, cook over low heat, reducing to 1/8-1/10 volume. Store honey in dry glass jars in a cool place.

Borsch and solyanka, porridge and noodles, fish dishes, by the abundance of which you can study the inhabitants of the nearby river - Don or Terek, Yaik or Volga. Cossacks are solid people, and a meal for them does not tolerate fuss. Historically, the Cossacks included Russians and Ukrainians, steppe nomads and peoples of the North Caucasus, Siberians and representatives of Central Asia. That is why the Cossack cuisine is so diverse. The question is where will you have lunch? At home at the table, then bream baked with porridge can be expected at the table, and if it’s a hike, then the agile hostess knows how to bake a camp cake.

Lunch in one pot (stanitsa Starocherkasskaya, 19th century)

What do you need:

Pork, potatoes, white root, carrots, 2-3 onions, tomatoes, blackthorn, cloves.

How to cook:

Salt and pepper the pork pulp, fry in boiling fat. Put in a cast iron or thick-walled pan, add chopped potatoes, white root, carrots, add cold water and simmer. Before cooking, add chopped tomatoes, soaked blackthorn and 2-3 cloves.

Lenten borscht (Middle and Lower Don, XVIII century)

What do you need:

Several large onions, cabbage, carrots, parsnips, potatoes, green beans or peas, garlic, bay leaves, peppers, herbs.

How to cook:

Boil the onions over low heat. Taking the onion out of the broth, add chopped cabbage, carrots, parsnips, potatoes, beans or peas. Season with freshly crushed garlic, bay leaf and pepper before serving. Season the borscht with onion and herbs fried in vegetable oil.

Solyanka fish (Rostov, XIX century)

What do you need:

Fish, onion, 1.5 tablespoons of flour, water, bay leaf, pepper, 10 olives, 10 mushrooms, 2 pickles, fresh and sour cabbage, greens.

How to cook:

Finely chop the onion, fry, add one and a half tablespoons of flour, fry again and add water. Put finely chopped fish, champignons, cucumbers, bay leaves, peppers, olives, a little fresh and salted cabbage into the sauce. When ready, add cucumber pickle, sour cream, herbs to taste, simmer.

Fish stuffed with porridge (Lower Don, Elizavetinskaya village, 18th–19th centuries)

What do you need:

Don fish (bream, carp, carp), rice or millet, onion, white wine, spices to taste.

How to cook:

Clean the fish and remove the offal. If available, separate the caviar and mix with semi-finished rice or millet. Soak the fish carcass for an hour in white wine, then fill with porridge, put in a deep frying pan, add sunflower oil, fried onions and fish broth. Stew with spices.

Crayfish in a festive way (village Elizavetinskaya, 19th century)

What do you need:

20-30 crayfish, a glass of sour cream, 0.5 cups of strong red wine, a spoonful of butter, salt, cumin, dill.

How to cook:

Add sour cream, wine, butter, a little salt, cumin and dill to a pot of water. After boiling, crayfish are laid, covered with a lid and boiled for half an hour.

Taranchuk (lunch from the cuisine of the Lower Don, XVIII-XIX centuries)

What do you need:

Lamb, potatoes, carrots, parsnip root, spices, mutton fat, hot pepper pod, vinegar, vegetable oil.

How to cook:

Fry small pieces of lamb pulp in boiling oil, put in pots. Separately, boil the vegetables and pour the meat with vegetable broth, add chopped potatoes, carrots, parsnip root, spices. Simmer until cooked with the addition of fat, pepper and vinegar to taste.

Camping pie (from the cuisine of the Middle Don, XVIII-XIX centuries)

What do you need:

Pulp of pork, beef or lamb, garlic, any pie dough, tomatoes, animal fat, onions.

How to cook:

Stuff a piece of meat with garlic and fry in the oven or oven until tender. Cut into 1 cm thick layers and lay on the rolled out dough. Put a layer of tomatoes and fried onions on top, pour over with fat and cover with a net of dough. Bake in oven or oven until done.

Don gingerbread (Lower Don, XIX century)

What do you need:

A pound or about 450 grams of nardeca (watermelon honey) or flower honey, 1 tablespoon of soda, 1.5 pounds or about 700 grams of flour, vegetable oil, egg, powdered sugar, raisins.

How to cook:

Add a tablespoon of soda and flour to honey. Knead a stiff dough and leave in the room for two days. Knead and roll into a layer, cut into shapes and place on an oiled pan. Brush the top of the gingerbread with beaten egg or sprinkle with powdered sugar and raisins.

Nardek - watermelon honey (Lower Don, XVIII century)

What do you need:

Flesh of watermelon.

How to cook:

Squeeze the pulp of ripe watermelons, pass through a press. Place the resulting mass in an enameled or copper basin, put on fire and bring to a boil. Constantly stirring, keep on low heat, boiling down to 1/8-1/10 volume. Store honey in dry glass jars in a cool place.

Kvass from blackthorn (stanitsa Starocherkasskaya, 18th–19th centuries)

What do you need:

1 kilogram of turn, 300 grams of sugar, 15 grams of yeast.

How to cook:

Wipe the turn, add four liters of water, boil for 15 minutes. Cool the drink, strain and, adding 300 grams of sugar, boil again. Cool the resulting syrup and add raw blackthorn juice and yeast while stirring. Pour kvass into bottles, close tightly with corks and keep for five days.

Here are the recipes. who came to us from the distant past. Many of them are forgotten today. But the Don ancient cuisine has its own flavor...
Try it and you will feel it...

CARP WITH WHITE TABLE WINE (early 19th century, Rostov).

Pieces of large carp with milk, chopped 2 celery, 4 parsley, 4 sour cucumbers, 2 nutmegs, put in a saucepan, sprinkle with simple and English pepper, pour cucumber pickle in half with white wine. Simmer over low heat. Mix a spoonful of butter with a spoonful of flour, dilute with strained fish sauce and pour over the fish on a dish.

KRUGLIK (village of Starocherkasskaya, 18th century).

Mix ground meat with chopped chicken meat, fry with parsley roots in goose or duck fat. Roll out the dough prepared for the pie in a large frying pan, spread the cooked minced meat on it with a layer. Bake in the oven or oven. Watch for juiciness.

TARANCHUK (Lunch from the kitchen of the lower Don, XVIII-XIX centuries).

Small pieces of lamb pulp are fried in boiling oil. Put in pots, pour vegetable broth and add chopped potatoes, carrots, parsnip root, spices and stew until tender with the addition of lamb fat, hot pepper and vinegar to taste.

SOLYANKA KAZACHIA (near the village of Starocherkasskaya, 19th century).

A kilogram of finely chopped pork, 150 grams of bacon, two cloves of garlic, an onion, a little broth are thoroughly mixed and stuffed with a thin pork intestine with a quarter dressing. Boil in salted water for 15 minutes. Then fry in pork fat with sauerkraut.

FISHING KULESH (known for a long time, recorded in the village of Vesely).

Washed millet is cooked for 10 minutes. Salted fish is boiled separately (more often - sula). It is cut into small pieces. Boiled millet is seasoned with onions fried in vegetable oil, pieces of fish, herbs, mixed thoroughly.

TRAVELING PIE (From the cuisine of the Middle Don, XVIII-XIX centuries).

A piece of pork, beef or lamb pulp is stuffed with garlic slices and fried in an oven or oven until tender. Cut into layers a centimeter thick and put on a rolled out dough (for a pie). Sliced ​​tomatoes are placed on top, poured with fat and fried onions and covered with a net of dough. Bake in the oven or oven until done.

Porridge and Noodles (which are more than three hundred years old, Middle Don).

Wheat porridge boiled in milk, seasoned with suzma and raisins.

Deeply boiled noodles are seasoned with fried onions and small pieces of wild duck. Served with soaked blackthorn.

LUNCH IN ONE PAN (stanitsa Starocherkasskaya, 19th century).

Pork flesh, salted and peppered, fried in boiling fat. Put in a cast iron or thick saucepan, along with chopped potatoes, white root, carrots, 2-3 onions, add cold water and stew. Before readiness, chopped tomatoes, soaked blackthorn, 2-3 cloves are added.

LENTEN BORSCH (Middle and Lower Don, XVIII century).

Several large raw onions are cooked on low heat.
Then they are taken out and shredded cabbage, carrots, parsnips, potatoes, green beans (peas) are put into the broth. Before readiness, crushed garlic, bay leaf, pepper are added and seasoned with onion and herbs fried in vegetable oil.

EAR IN OLD CHERKASS (Middle Don).

Small fish, ruff, perch, roach, rudd, bleak, gutted, gills removed. Filled with cold water. Onions, salt, spices are added. Boil over low heat for 40-60 minutes. Vinegar - to taste.

EAR IN ELIZABETH (Lower Don, the village of Elizavetinskaya).

The fish is gutted and the gills are removed. Fish, coarsely chopped 2-3 potatoes, onion, 2-3 tomatoes, spices are placed in cold water. Before readiness, dill and parsley are added.
Only broth and separately pieces of fish cooked and sprinkled with salted fish broth are served at the table.

FISH STuffed with Porridge (Lower Don, village Elizavetinskaya, XVIII-XIX centuries).

Don fish /bream, carp, carp/ are cleaned and gutted. Caviar is separated and mixed with semi-cooked rice or millet. The fish carcass is kept in white wine for an hour. Stuffed with caviar with porridge and placed in a deep frying pan. Pour in sunflower oil and fried onions and small fish broth and stew. Spices - to taste.

BREAM BAKED WITH PORRIDGE (it has long been known, especially in the Lower Don).

Large bream is cleaned of scales and entrails. Filled with millet porridge mixed with caviar. Sew up. Bake in the oven or oven, monitor the juiciness. You can lubricate with butter from time to time.

FISH DON, STEW (village Elizavetinskaya, XVIII-XIX centuries).

Cut off the heads and tails of the Don small fish. Gut, rinse well, salt, lay back up in a cast iron pan. Pour 1/3 cup of water and vinegar, 1/2 cup of vegetable oil, put bay leaf and allspice.
Simmer over low heat for 3.4-5 hours until the oil has evaporated.

FISH SOLYANKA (Rostov, 19th century).

Finely chop the onion, fry, add one and a half tablespoons of flour and fry, dilute with water. Put small pieces of fish, bay leaf, pepper, 10 olives, 10 finely chopped champignons, 2 pickles, a little fresh and sour cabbage into the sauce.
When ready, add cucumber pickle, sour cream to taste, sprinkle with herbs, stew.

Crayfish in a festive way (village Elizavetinskaya, 19th century).

Pour one and a half glasses of fresh sour cream, half a glass of strong red wine into a saucepan with water, put a spoonful of butter, a little salt, cumin and dill. As soon as it boils, put in 20-30 crayfish, cover and cook for 30 minutes.

BREAM WITH HORSERADISE AND APPLES (Middle Don, XVIII century).

Bream cut, salt, pour boiling weak solution of vinegar. Keep covered for 5 minutes. Broth of parsley roots, celery, carrots, 2 onions, pour the fish in a saucepan and simmer over high heat. Put fish slices on a dish and shift with grated horseradish with sour grated apples and lemon slices.

BAKE PIKE WITH PORK LAD (Middle Don, XVII century).

Peel a large pike, salt it, cover it with thin plates of lard, tying it with threads. Roast on a spit, while pouring the dripping sauce. Fire - not hot, preferably burnt coals.

STARLET WITH CHAMPAGNE (A rare dish from the 18th century).

Peel 3-4 pounds of sterlet, cut into pieces, wash, wipe with a napkin, put in one row in a silver saucepan. Put 1/4 pound butter, salt, juice of 1/2 lemon. Pour in 2 tbsp. champagne. Boil and serve immediately.

CHAPRA DONSKAYA (stanitsa Starocherkasskaya, XVIII-XIX centuries).

Place raw in a jar or pot: 3 bell peppers, half bitter, a few tomatoes, three cloves of garlic, a branch of dill, spice, bay leaf. Boil tomato juice and pour over vegetables. Close the lid tightly and pasteurize for 10-15 minutes. Seasoning for various meat and fish dishes.

DON gingerbread (Lower Don, 19th century).

To a pound of warmed nardek or honey, add a tablespoon of soda and a pound and a half of flour. Knead into a stiff dough and leave in the room for two days. Then mix and roll into a layer, cut with a mold and put on a frying pan poured with oil. Brush top with beaten egg or sprinkle with powdered sugar and raisins.

Kvass from blackthorn (Starocherkasskaya village, XVIII-XIX centuries).

Wipe 1 kg of turn. Squeeze pour 4 liters of water, boil for 15 minutes. Cool, strain and add 300 g of sugar, boil again. Cool the syrup and pour in the raw sloe juice. Add 15 g of yeast, stir, bottle, close tightly with corks, and stand for 5 days.

BREAD KVASS (Rostov-Don, XVII-XIX centuries).

Pour a kilogram of rye crackers with 8-10 liters of boiling water, close tightly, let stand for 4-5 hours. Strain, then add 25 g of yeast and 300 g of sugar. After the appearance of foam, strain a second time and bottle, put 3-4 raisins into each and cork tightly, hold for 3 days.

REFRESHING DRINKS (Vesely Farm, XVIII century).

Pour a pinch of black and red pepper, a teaspoon of diluted mustard into a cup of cabbage brine. Before use, add half a teaspoon of baking soda.

A glass of syuzma /sour milk/, dissolve in a glass of cold water. Add raisins and some vanilla.

DRINKS WITH PICKED STURDY (known for a long time).


  • Mix one glass of soaked turn, 3 glasses of strong coffee. Honey - to taste.
  • Mix half a glass of suzma with half a glass of soaked sloes and dilute with water.
DRINKS FROM HERBS (ancient folk remedies).

  • In a jug / 2.5 liters / put a tablespoon of thyme, sweet clover, mint, two cloves, a piece of ginger, two tablespoons of tea. Boil and strain. Add honey to taste. Drink hot.
  • For 2.5 liters of water, a pinch of mint and tea, two cloves, two glasses of red wine. Drink hot.
DRINKS WITH DON WINE (Middle Don, XVIII-XIX centuries).

Linden blossom, thyme, mint, brew strong, strain, add an equal volume of white wine. Drink hot.

Mix a glass of Don wine, 2.5 cups of hot milk, a tablespoon of honey.

CHERRY DRESS (Middle Don, XVIII century).

Pour a full pot of ripe cherries, tie with rags, coat with dough, put in the oven after the bread. The next day, take it out, put it on a sieve, let the juice drain. Wipe the berries. For 2 st. puree - 1 tbsp. Sahara. Beat until sugar dissolves, put on ice.

FIGS FROM GRAPES (Rostov, Nizhny Don, 18th century).

Make syrup from one glass of water and sugar. Dip small bunches of grapes in hot syrup, then roll them in powdered sugar and dry them in a light oven or oven. Store in a dry closed jar.

NARDEK (watermelon honey) (Lower Don, XVIII century).

Squeeze the pulp of ripe table watermelons, pass through a press. Drain into an enameled or copper basin. Put on fire and bring to a boil. Stirring constantly, cook over low heat, reducing to 1/8-1/10 volume. Store honey in dry glass jars in a cool place.


During campaigns in Turkey and Persia, military service in different parts of the world, the Don Cossacks absorbed the customs of European, Caucasian and Eastern culture, including the culture of the feast, and brought them to the Don. The menu in the Cossack kuren has always been varied. The Cossacks honor the covenant of their ancestors: "As with a spoon, so with a saber."

The table was bursting with food when the Cossacks were met after campaigns or were waiting for welcome guests - meat, poultry, game, pickled apples, pickles, pies, pancakes seasoned with kaymak and watermelon honey (nordek), and, of course, the famous Don fish: balyks sturgeon, Don herring, scherba (ear), small fish fried with onion and egg.

Being unpretentious in food and observing all fasts, the Cossacks still loved to eat deliciously and treat guests. The wedding was one of the celebrations when the table was literally bursting with food. The main dish on the table was kruglik - a minced meat pie.

Of the cold appetizers, jelly, tongues, or as they were called “licks”, polotki, boiled wild boar meat and much more were obligatory. Hot dishes included: goose or turkey roast, whole stuffed pig, lamb carcass with garlic; wild goat meat; dishes from bustards, wild ducks, waders and other game. The Cossacks did not eat veal, because they considered it a sinful thing. In order not to offend the owner, the guests were obliged to taste all the dishes.

... And for whom - a Cossack moonshine, peeled to a childish-tearful transparency, lightly salted under a cucumber and pickled garlic, and then glossed with a Don shamaechka, and bitten with a tongue with horseradish.

Cossack soup

Lamb, chopped into pieces of 25–30 grams, is fried in butter with the bones. Onion, cut into half rings, is introduced at the end of frying meat.
Fried meat and onions are cooked until half cooked, millet, diced potatoes are added. The soup, boiled to readiness, is seasoned with spices, grated with salt, garlic, and brought to a boil. Released with herbs, sour cream and chopped boiled eggs.

Don dumplings

From the prepared flour, eggs, water, heated to 30-35 degrees, knead a stiff dough. For stuffing, potatoes are boiled, rubbed and mixed with onions fried in vegetable oil.
The dough prepared for dumplings is rolled out thinly, circles are cut out with a glass or cut into squares, stuffed with minced potato and boiled in salted boiling water.
Ready-made dumplings are poured over with vegetable oil with onion fried on it.

Dulma

A head of cabbage boiled in salted water is disassembled into individual leaves, cabbage rolls are prepared from the semi-finished product. Stuffing for cabbage rolls: meat, boiled rice, raw onions, spices. Cabbage rolls are laid in layers interspersed with browned vegetables, spices are added, poured with broth and stewed until tender over low heat. This dish is semi-liquid in consistency and occupies an intermediate position between the first and second courses.

Don fish marinated

The fish is cut into fillets with skin and rib bones, portioned pieces are salted, peppered, rolled in flour and fried in vegetable oil. They put it in a saucepan, shifting the pieces of fish with a hot ready-made marinade. Put in the oven for 5-10 minutes. When serving, sprinkle the fish with green onions.

Borscht veshensky

Beets, carrots, parsnips, onions and bell peppers are cut into strips. Beets are sautéed with fat, parsnips, carrots, bell peppers are added and the sautéing is continued. Then add peeled tomatoes cut into slices and pass through for 5-7 minutes. Separately pass onions.
In a boiling broth, put potatoes cut into cubes or slices, and whole peeled potatoes. After 5 minutes, lay the chopped cabbage. Boil for 15 minutes. Then lay the passivated vegetables.
They take out a whole potato boiled in borscht, wipe it and put it in a mashed form into borscht.
3 minutes before readiness, put bay leaves, peppercorns in borscht.

Rvantsy

Peeled potatoes, cut into slices, are placed in boiling water, a stiff dough is kneaded and rolled out thinly, then it is torn with fingers and placed in a boiling broth with potatoes, seasoned with onions sauteed in vegetable oil. When used, sprinkle with herbs.

Cossack noodles

Ready chicken broth. To prepare noodles, add salt, raw eggs, sifted flour to cold water and knead a stiff dough, which is kept for 10-15 minutes, then roll out a layer 1 mm thick and chop into strips. Lightly dry before cooking. Put the noodles into the boiling broth, bring to readiness. Seasoned with butter-sauteed tomatoes. Sprinkle with herbs on vacation.

Ear in Rostov style

Potatoes and vegetables, cut into slices, are placed in the broth, and 10-15 minutes before readiness, pieces of fillet fish are placed. Before the end of cooking put sliced ​​​​fresh tomatoes, spices. Sprinkle with herbs before the holidays.

Blue (eggplant) in Cossack

Eggplants are cut into slices 1 cm thick, salted, kept for 15-20 minutes to drain the juice. Breaded in flour and fried in vegetable oil, poured with sour cream and tomato sauce and put in the oven for baking, baked for 10 minutes.

Shuruborki (dumplings) baked in sour cream

Dumplings are prepared in the usual way. Boiled in salted water. Placed in a single-portion pot, poured with sour cream and baked in the oven.

Tatsin chicken

The prepared chicken carcass is placed in boiling water and boiled for 30 minutes. For minced meat: boil offal, cut into small cubes, add raw eggs, flour, salt. The chicken carcass is filled with this mass, put in the oven and fried until tender. The garnish is served with spicy buckwheat or rice porridge. When on vacation, drizzle with butter.

Veshensky apples

The seed box is removed from the apples and the void is filled with minced meat (boiled rice mixed with soaked sabza seasoned with butter). Prepared apples are baked in the oven. Serve hot or cold, topped with applesauce.

Here are the recipes. who came to us from the distant past.

Many of them are forgotten today.

But the Don ancient cuisine has its own flavor...

Try it and you will feel it...

CARP WITH WHITE TABLE WINE (early 19th century, Rostov).

Pieces of large carp with milk, chopped 2 celery, 4 parsley, 4 sour cucumbers, 2 nutmegs, put in a saucepan, sprinkle with simple and English pepper, pour cucumber pickle in half with white wine. Simmer over low heat. Mix a spoonful of butter with a spoonful of flour, dilute with strained fish sauce and pour over the fish on a dish.

KRUGLIK (village of Starocherkasskaya, 18th century).

Mix ground meat with chopped chicken meat, fry with parsley roots in goose or duck fat. Roll out the dough prepared for the pie in a large frying pan, spread the cooked minced meat on it with a layer. Bake in the oven or oven. Watch for juiciness.

TARANCHUK (Lunch from the kitchen of the lower Don, XVIII-XIX centuries).

Small pieces of lamb pulp are fried in boiling oil. Put in pots, pour vegetable broth and add chopped potatoes, carrots, parsnip root, spices and stew until tender with the addition of lamb fat, hot pepper and vinegar to taste.

SOLYANKA KAZACHIA (near the village of Starocherkasskaya, 19th century).

A kilogram of finely chopped pork, 150 grams of bacon, two cloves of garlic, an onion, a little broth are thoroughly mixed and stuffed with a thin pork intestine with a quarter dressing. Boil in salted water for 15 minutes. Then fry in pork fat with sauerkraut.

FISHING KULESH (known for a long time, recorded in the village of Vesely).

Washed millet is cooked for 10 minutes. Salted fish is boiled separately (more often - sula). It is cut into small pieces. Boiled millet is seasoned with onions fried in vegetable oil, pieces of fish, herbs, mixed thoroughly.

YAHNY" - LAMB WITH EGGLANTS OLD COSSACKS

Chop lamb ribs into small pieces and fry in butter. It is also good to fry (each separately) potatoes, onions, carrots and white parsnip root and parsley. Bake whole eggplants in the oven. Vegetables are cut arbitrarily and proportioned to taste.

Mix half-cooked vegetables with lamb or pork, put in a saucepan or ceramic pot and add baked eggplants, mashed through a colander. Mix everything gently, seasoning with salt and ground black pepper. Close the pot with vegetables with a lid and simmer until tender in the oven.

TRAVELING PIE (From the cuisine of the Middle Don, XVIII-XIX centuries).

A piece of pork, beef or lamb pulp is stuffed with garlic slices and fried in an oven or oven until tender. Cut into layers a centimeter thick and put on a rolled out dough (for a pie). Sliced ​​tomatoes are placed on top, poured with fat and fried onions and covered with a net of dough. Bake in the oven or oven until done.

Porridge and Noodles (which are more than three hundred years old, Middle Don).

Wheat porridge boiled in milk, seasoned with suzma and raisins.

Deeply boiled noodles are seasoned with fried onions and small pieces of wild duck. Served with soaked blackthorn.

MILLET PORRIDGE WITH SUZMA OR KAYMAK AND RAISINS "ATAMANSKAYA"

Cooking millet porridge

Pour prepared millet with water at the rate of 180 g of water for friable or 320 g of water for viscous porridge for every 100 g of cereal. It is better to cook porridge in a cast-iron or in a thick-walled saucepan for about an hour with a uniform low boil (languishing). 5-7 minutes before the end of cooking, add carefully washed and dried pitted raisins to taste.

Transfer the hot porridge to portioned plates and separately serve suzma diluted with boiled water to the desired density (like thick or liquid sour cream). If desired, the diluted suzma is mixed with porridge or the porridge is seized with suzma.

To taste, porridge is slightly sweetened with nardek - honey made from watermelons or juicy fruits.

But the most delicious porridge will turn out if the finished porridge is abundantly seasoned with kaimak and lightly baked in a very hot oven.

L.A. Lagutina, S.V. Lagutina: "Don and Cossack cuisine"

LUNCH IN ONE PAN (stanitsa Starocherkasskaya, 19th century).

Pork flesh, salted and peppered, fried in boiling fat. Put in a cast iron or thick saucepan, along with chopped potatoes, white root, carrots, 2-3 onions, add cold water and stew. Before readiness, chopped tomatoes, soaked blackthorn, 2-3 cloves are added.

POTATOES WITH GROUND MEAT IN DON

Peel raw potato tubers, rinse thoroughly under cold water, cut into circles and salt to taste. Fry on both sides in vegetable oil until browned, so that the potatoes are laid in the pan in only one layer. Prepare minced pork and beef, taken in the right amount. Finely chop the onion and fry in the remaining oil in the pan, salt and pepper to taste during the frying process. Grease a baking sheet with oil and place a layer of fried potatoes on it, then a layer of minced meat, on top of which lay a second layer of potatoes. Sprinkle the casserole with ground breadcrumbs, mixing them to taste with grated cheese and chopped herbs. Drizzle with oil and bake in a hot oven until browned. Pour hot casserole portionwise with sour cream or mayonnaise.

You can use various products in combination with potatoes - meat, vegetables, eggs, cheese, etc. Sour cream, cream, mayonnaise, milk with flour, egg and other mixtures are used to fill casseroles. The surface of potato casseroles is covered with grated cheese, fried ground breadcrumbs or corn flakes. L.A. Lagutina, S.V. Lagutina: "Don and Cossack cuisine"

LENTEN BORSCH (Middle and Lower Don, XVIII century).

Several large raw onions are cooked on low heat.

Then they are taken out and shredded cabbage, carrots, parsnips, potatoes, green beans (peas) are put into the broth. Before readiness, crushed garlic, bay leaf, pepper are added and seasoned with onion and herbs fried in vegetable oil.

EAR IN OLD CHERKASS (Middle Don).

Small fish, ruff, perch, roach, rudd, bleak, gutted, gills removed. Filled with cold water. Onions, salt, spices are added. Boil over low heat for 40-60 minutes. Vinegar - to taste.

EAR IN ELIZABETH (Lower Don, the village of Elizavetinskaya).

The fish is gutted and the gills are removed. Fish, coarsely chopped 2-3 potatoes, onion, 2-3 tomatoes, spices are placed in cold water. Before readiness, dill and parsley are added.

Only broth and separately pieces of fish cooked and sprinkled with salted fish broth are served at the table.

FISH STuffed with Porridge (Lower Don, village Elizavetinskaya, XVIII-XIX centuries).

Don fish /bream, carp, carp/ are cleaned and gutted. Caviar is separated and mixed with semi-cooked rice or millet. The fish carcass is kept in white wine for an hour. Stuffed with caviar with porridge and placed in a deep frying pan. Pour in sunflower oil and fried onions and small fish broth and stew. Spices - to taste.

BREAM BAKED WITH PORRIDGE (it has long been known, especially in the Lower Don).

Large bream is cleaned of scales and entrails. Filled with millet porridge mixed with caviar. Sew up. Bake in the oven or oven, monitor the juiciness. You can lubricate with butter from time to time.

FISH DON, STEW (village Elizavetinskaya, XVIII-XIX centuries).

Cut off the heads and tails of the Don small fish. Gut, rinse well, salt, lay back up in a cast iron pan. Pour 1/3 cup of water and vinegar, 1/2 cup of vegetable oil, put bay leaf and allspice.

Simmer over low heat for 3.4-5 hours until the oil has evaporated.

FISH SOLYANKA (Rostov, 19th century).

Finely chop the onion, fry, add one and a half tablespoons of flour and fry, dilute with water. Put small pieces of fish, bay leaf, pepper, 10 olives, 10 finely chopped champignons, 2 pickles, a little fresh and sour cabbage into the sauce.

When ready, add cucumber pickle, sour cream to taste, sprinkle with herbs, stew.

Crayfish in a festive way (village Elizavetinskaya, 19th century).

Pour one and a half glasses of fresh sour cream, half a glass of strong red wine into a saucepan with water, put a spoonful of butter, a little salt, cumin and dill. As soon as it boils, put in 20-30 crayfish, cover and cook for 30 minutes.

BREAM WITH HORSERADISE AND APPLES (Middle Don, XVIII century).

Bream cut, salt, pour boiling weak solution of vinegar. Keep covered for 5 minutes. Broth of parsley roots, celery, carrots, 2 onions, pour the fish in a saucepan and simmer over high heat. Put fish slices on a dish and shift with grated horseradish with sour grated apples and lemon slices.

BAKE PIKE WITH PORK LAD (Middle Don, XVII century).

Peel a large pike, salt it, cover it with thin plates of lard, tying it with threads. Roast on a spit, while pouring the dripping sauce. Fire - not hot, preferably burnt coals.

STARLET WITH CHAMPAGNE (A rare dish from the 18th century).

Peel 3-4 pounds of sterlet, cut into pieces, wash, wipe with a napkin, put in one row in a silver saucepan. Put 1/4 pound butter, salt, juice of 1/2 lemon. Pour in 2 tbsp. champagne. Boil and serve immediately.

CHAPRA DONSKAYA (stanitsa Starocherkasskaya, XVIII-XIX centuries).

Place raw in a jar or pot: 3 bell peppers, half bitter, a few tomatoes, three cloves of garlic, a branch of dill, spice, bay leaf. Boil tomato juice and pour over vegetables. Close the lid tightly and pasteurize for 10-15 minutes. Seasoning for various meat and fish dishes.

DON gingerbread (Lower Don, 19th century).

To a pound of warmed nardek or honey, add a tablespoon of soda and a pound and a half of flour. Knead into a stiff dough and leave in the room for two days. Then mix and roll into a layer, cut with a mold and put on a frying pan poured with oil. Brush top with beaten egg or sprinkle with powdered sugar and raisins.

Kvass from blackthorn (Starocherkasskaya village, XVIII-XIX centuries).

Wipe 1 kg of turn. Squeeze pour 4 liters of water, boil for 15 minutes. Cool, strain and add 300 g of sugar, boil again. Cool the syrup and pour in the raw sloe juice. Add 15 g of yeast, stir, bottle, close tightly with corks, and stand for 5 days.

BREAD KVASS (Rostov-Don, XVII-XIX centuries).

Pour a kilogram of rye crackers with 8-10 liters of boiling water, close tightly, let stand for 4-5 hours. Strain, then add 25 g of yeast and 300 g of sugar. After the appearance of foam, strain a second time and bottle, put 3-4 raisins into each and cork tightly, hold for 3 days.

REFRESHING DRINKS (Vesely Farm, XVIII century).

Pour a pinch of black and red pepper, a teaspoon of diluted mustard into a cup of cabbage brine. Before use, add half a teaspoon of baking soda.

A glass of syuzma /sour milk/, dissolve in a glass of cold water. Add raisins and some vanilla.

DRINKS WITH PICKED STURDY (known for a long time).

· Mix one cup of soaked sloes, 3 cups of strong coffee. Honey - to taste.

· Mix half a glass of suzma with half a glass of soaked blackthorn and dilute with water.

DRINKS FROM HERBS (ancient folk remedies).

· Put a tablespoon of thyme, sweet clover, mint, two cloves, a piece of ginger, two tablespoons of tea into a jug /2.5 liters/. Boil and strain. Add honey to taste. Drink hot.

· For 2.5 liters of water, a pinch of mint and tea, two cloves, two glasses of red wine. Drink hot.

DRINKS WITH DON WINE (Middle Don, XVIII-XIX centuries).

Linden blossom, thyme, mint, brew strong, strain, add an equal volume of white wine. Drink hot.

Mix a glass of Don wine, 2.5 cups of hot milk, a tablespoon of honey.

CHERRY DRESS (Middle Don, XVIII century).

Pour a full pot of ripe cherries, tie with rags, coat with dough, put in the oven after the bread. The next day, take it out, put it on a sieve, let the juice drain. Wipe the berries. For 2 st. puree - 1 tbsp. Sahara. Beat until sugar dissolves, put on ice.

FIGS FROM GRAPES (Rostov, Nizhny Don, 18th century).

Make syrup from one glass of water and sugar. Dip small bunches of grapes in hot syrup, then roll them in powdered sugar and dry them in a light oven or oven. Store in a dry closed jar.

NARDEK (watermelon honey) (Lower Don, XVIII century).

Squeeze the pulp of ripe table watermelons, pass through a press. Drain into an enameled or copper basin. Put on fire and bring to a boil. Stirring constantly, cook over low heat, reducing to 1/8-1/10 volume. Store honey in dry glass jars in a cool place.

"NARDEK" - COSSACK-STYLE WATERMELON HONEY

Watermelon honey (nardek) is the juice of ripe watermelons condensed during the cooking process as a result of evaporation.

Preparation of watermelon pulp and juice

Rinse ripe sweet watermelons under running cold water and let dry. Cut each watermelon in half or into four parts, scrape out the pulp with a spoon and grind it in an enameled basin with a wooden rolling pin. Then wipe the pulp through a sieve and strain through cheesecloth, folded in 2-3 layers, into a deep enameled pan. In some Don villages, the pulp of ripe watermelons is squeezed from the juice and passed through a press.

Boiling and preserving watermelon honey

First, put the dishes with watermelon juice on a strong fire, remove the foam formed during boiling (but not boiling!) Once again, strain into a thick-walled tinned or copper dish in which honey will be boiled. Boil watermelon juice, stirring continuously, over medium heat. After the amount of juice decreases by 6-7 times (and sometimes up to 1/8-1/10 of the original volume) and a drop of it, poured onto a cold porcelain plate, does not spread and retains its shape, the honey is ready. It should turn red-brown in color with a very pleasant aroma. It is better to store ready-made honey in a cool place in glass jars rolled up with tin lids, and use it like regular bee honey. In addition to watermelon, this technology can be used to prepare honey from melons, grapes, mulberries (mulberries), as well as from juicy fruits.

L.A. Lagutina, S.V. Lagutina: "Don and Cossack cuisine"
















RECIPE (from Galina Pylypivna Dunaevskaya):
=Knish:
- borosno - 2kg;
-drizhzhi dry - 15g;
- serum - 1l;
-sil - 1d.l.;
- tsukor - 1dl;
-oliya - 1 tablespoon;
= Grease:
-oliya - 1 tablespoon;
- egg - 1 piece;
= Stuffing:
-podcherevina - 500g

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