How to make a cocktail screwdriver at home. How to make a screwdriver for hard to reach places
Our market is simply flooded with low-quality Chinese tools. And it’s not even a matter of the manufacturer, but rather of resellers who are massively bringing in cheap Chinese screwdrivers, passing them off as a brand. There are also excellent, high quality Chinese instruments, but they are quite difficult to find.
We won’t talk much about what and how, but we will try to improve the quality of a screwdriver or screwdriver with replaceable bits.
I will harden the bat. Hardening has the goal of increasing the strength of steel, changing the properties of the metal, making it harder, but more brittle.
How to harden metal with your own hands
The hardening process is extremely simple and does not require special knowledge or special work techniques from you. But you will have to be especially careful when working with hot metal and a gas burner.So, what do you need for hardening?
- - The bits themselves come first.
- - Heater. Ideally, use it, but if you don’t have one, you can use a gas burner like I did.
- - Machine oil. Any kind will do, it’s even better to use used one, as it’s thinner.
In principle, you can simply hold the thick end of the bit with pliers so that only the part of the bit that interacts with the screws and screws is hardened.
We light the gas burner. We bring the bat and start heating the metal.
Heat until bright pinkish. It is not recommended to heat it until white, although you are unlikely to be able to do this on such a burner.
As soon as everything is warmed up, quickly lower it into the oil for 5-6 seconds. Then we take it out.
You can use another process: 4 seconds in oil, and then sharply in cold water, they say the effect is better, but again, I have not tried it.
That's it. The process is complete. All that remains is to wipe off the oil from the bat and start using it.
It looked darker.
I would like to add that not all bits can be hardened. I don’t know what is mixed into them, but there are specimens that are not only not affected by hardening, but even destroy them, and they become like plasticine after heat treatment.
I would also like to add that this method is in no way similar to factory hardening, so there is no need to expect the same hardness of the metal. Since even the metal is not the same as the factory one. But there is still an effect of increasing hardness, and therefore operating time.
The Screwdriver cocktail has a rather interesting history. The idea of mixing juice with vodka first arose among American oil workers working in Saudi Arabia in the mid-20th century. Since Islam implies leading a sober lifestyle, there were no bars familiar to Americans in the country; moreover, alcohol consumption was strictly punished by local authorities. Resourceful Americans began to dilute the alcohol with a large amount of juice, so as not to arouse suspicion among local residents, and stirred the ingredients of the drink with a screwdriver, which was always at hand. This is how the “Screwdriver” cocktail appeared, the recipe for which can be found below.
Cocktail “Screwdriver” – preparation
The easiest way to prepare such a cocktail is to simply mix 1 part vodka with 2 parts orange juice, as its creators did in their time, but the taste of the resulting drink, and its appearance, will leave much to be desired. So how can you make a “Screwdriver” cocktail at home so that you’ll want to drink it later?
It’s very simple – it’s important to choose the right ingredients. The right ingredients, first of all, include expensive vodka. The golden rule in preparing cocktails is to choose only high-quality and proven alcohol. For a real cocktail, orange juice must be freshly squeezed, but you can replace it with store-bought orange nectar.
Ingredients:
- vodka – 50 ml;
- orange juice – 100 ml;
- ice - optional.
Preparation
If you are making a cocktail with ice, you should add it to the glass first. In this case, the ice should occupy the entire surface of the glass. Next, you need to add vodka, then pour it with orange juice and mix the ingredients thoroughly. When serving, the cocktail can be garnished with a slice of orange or lemon.
The peculiarity of the Screwdriver cocktail is that it must be drunk immediately after preparation. Otherwise, the ice begins to melt, and the drink loses its incomparable aroma and taste.
"Screwdriver" in reverse
Today there are a huge number of variations on the theme of making “Screwdriver”. The most popular cocktail, especially among young people, is the reverse “drivescrewer”.
Ingredients:
- vodka – 100 ml;
- orange juice – 50 ml;
- ice - optional.
Preparation
The principle of preparing “Screwdriver”, on the contrary, is the same as that of the regular version. True, the number of cocktails drunk “on the contrary” is halved.
Grapefruit "Screwdriver"
If desired, you can prepare a more gentle version of the cocktail, which is especially popular with the fair sex. Regular orange juice in this cocktail is replaced with grapefruit or blood orange juice. Accordingly, the color of the “Screwdriver” varies from pink to deep red.
Ingredients:
- vodka – 30 ml;
- juice – 90 ml;
- ice - optional.
Preparation
The first step is to add ice to the glass for the future cocktail, so that it occupies 2/3 of the container. Next, pour out the vodka, then pour in the juice and mix the ingredients using a straw. Since the cocktail is for women, before serving it must be garnished with a slice of grapefruit or blood orange.
We hope that we were able to answer the question of how to make a screwdriver cocktail at home, and that your guests and friends were satisfied with the cocktails prepared according to our recipes. Remember that the most delicious drinks come from those who prepare them with love, and, of course, from high-quality and proven alcohol.
No less famous cocktails will give a pleasant variety to the evening and try making them.
We will talk primarily about miniature screwdrivers, the so-called sentry ones. With their help, you can not only repair chronometers, but also repair glasses, cameras, and generally be used where particularly delicate mechanics are used. Of course, a ready-made set of such screwdrivers is available for sale. But, firstly, it is not cheap, and secondly, probably not all screwdrivers from the set will be needed for a specific job. Yes, sometimes you need a screwdriver so small that it is not included in the kit.
It’s quite easy to make a miniature screwdriver from an ordinary “darning” needle from a sewing machine.
Carefully break off and discard the sharp tip of the needle. Then we anneal the steel: heat the tip of the needle to a temperature of 900...950 degrees, and then slowly cool it. To determine the temperature, you will have to rely on the heat color of the steel. So, a temperature of 780...820 degrees corresponds to a cherry-red color, 820...900 degrees - light red, and 900...1050 degrees - orange. If the color of the heat is dark yellow (1050...1150 degrees), light yellow (1150...1250 degrees) or bright white (1250...1300 degrees), then this is a clear “overheating”. It is impossible to allow it for a long time, as this burns out the carbon and the steel loses its useful properties.
You can anneal the needle, or rather its very tip, in the flame of a burner of an ordinary household gas stove, and cool it very slowly by removing it from the flame. After this, the steel will no longer be so brittle, it will become ductile, so you can easily unforge the tip of the needle and give it the shape of a spatula. This is done on a small anvil with a small hammer. A larger hammer, pliers or pliers can also serve as an anvil. To make forging easier, reheat the needle without worrying about the speed of removal from the fire. After unforging, the tip of the needle should take on the shape shown in two projections in Fig. 1.
Rice. 1
The needle is then processed with a flat file or polished on an abrasive block (touchstone) or a piece of sandpaper attached to a wooden block with push pins. The tip is given the shape shown in two projections in Fig. 2. If a needle file was used first, then a grinding operation is still required.
Rice. 2
When the screwdriver is processed, the needle must be hardened again. To do this, the tip is heated to a temperature of 760...780 degrees (which corresponds to a dark cherry-red color of heat) and quickly immersed strictly vertically in water at room temperature.
After such hardening, the screwdriver blade will be too brittle and easy to break. To increase the toughness of steel, you will have to perform a third thermal operation - tempering. In industrial conditions, this is done under strict adherence to temperature conditions. We will judge it again indirectly - by the so-called colors of the tarnish of the steel surface. Its tempering temperature from 285 to 315 degrees corresponds to tarnish colors from violet to light blue. It is precisely this range that we should focus on. To make the colors more pronounced, remove scale from the surface of the tool by sanding it after hardening to a shine. The tempering is completed by gradually cooling the instrument in air.
Finally, the tip of the screwdriver became not only hard, but also viscous, so as not to break. All that remains is to sand it using an abrasive stone.
And make a handle. You can simply stick the corner eye into an ordinary cork bottle cap or into a piece of wood or a pencil.
But if you want to make a more reliable metal handle, you will have to turn it on a lathe from a brass rod. A hole equal to the diameter of the needle is drilled in the handle, and the needle itself is tinned with POS grade solder. "Soldering acid" - zinc chloride - is used as a flux. After tinning, the needle is inserted into the hole of the handle, helping with the soldering iron.
Your own mini-screwdriver is ready. Using exactly the same technology, larger screwdrivers can be made. Naturally, from more massive blanks. Let's say, from worn needle files. The “working” part of them (with the notch) is removed almost completely. They leave only a small area from which the sting is formed. To eliminate the unnecessary hardness of the steel at first, the tip of the file is annealed. Further operations are no different from those described.
In order to make an impact screwdriver from a starter with your own hands, you will need:
* Angle grinder, cutting wheel, safety glasses, gloves
* Bench vice
* Faulty car starter
* Old socket wrench
* Metal pipe with a diameter equal to the diameter of the bendix
* Metal lathe, through cutter
* A pair of small springs
* Metal washer
* Welding machine, welding mask, leggings
* Drilling machine, metal drill with a diameter of 5 mm
* Tap with M6 thread
* Kern
* Bolt M6
* Boring cutter
* Small hammer
* Masking tape
* A can of hammer paint
Step one.
The first step is to disassemble the faulty starter from the car, only two parts are needed from it,
this is the armature of the electric motor and the bendix, on which the principle of unscrewing will be based. You can purchase a non-working starter at a metal acceptance shop, for which they will ask for pennies compared to buying a factory-made version of an impact screwdriver.
You need to remove the rod from the anchor itself; this can be done using a press or a powerful bench vice. You can also knock out the anchor with hammer blows, but in this case there is a risk of deforming it, so I do not recommend this method. So, we clamp the anchor in a vice and squeeze out the rod; after it has completely come out, we move on to the next step.
Step two.
Now you need a part with splines from the Bendix; it can be sawed off using an angle grinder with a cutting disc installed, and then finished on a lathe to the desired size. When working with an angle grinder, be careful; you must hold the power tool firmly in your hands, and do not forget about safety glasses and gloves. The splined part will subsequently fit onto the shaft and transfer rotation to it from the impact.
Step three.
In order to be able to install various heads on this screwdriver, you need to cut off the tetrahedral part from the driver using an angle grinder.
The base of the screwdriver was a round metal blank, in which a step was made for installing the splined part from the Bendix using a lathe and a boring cutter.
If you do not have a lathe, then the base can be made from a pipe of a suitable diameter, preferably with a wall thickness of at least 2 mm. This is what the assembled tool will look like.
Step four.
To fix the rod, clamp the base in a vice and use a drilling machine to drill a hole with a diameter of 5 mm for the bolt.
Next, we clamp the part in a vice on a workbench and, using a tap, cut a thread for an M6 bolt; during the threading process, we add a special lubricant that will reduce the wear of the tap.
After this, we check how the bolt is screwed in by hand.
The rod itself needs to be milled, since there is no milling machine; we tighten the part in a vice and use an angle grinder to make a small groove that will prevent the rod from falling out freely.
Step five.
It's time for welding work. We install the splined part into the base and fix it in a vice, then use a welding machine to weld the parts together. When working with a welding machine, use personal protective equipment, a welding mask and leggings.
After this, we tap the seam to remove any slag formed during the welding process.
Let the part cool slightly, then clamp it into the three-jaw chuck of the lathe and remove weld marks using a through cutter.
The result is a foundation like this.
Step six.
We clamp the rod with the tetrahedron on it in a vice and use a welding machine to weld them to each other, then tap the slag with a hammer and use a lathe to remove the unevenness of the weld.
As it turned out, during testing it was revealed that when the hammer hit the shaft, it jammed a little at the base; in this case, the springs could not push it back out. This problem was solved by installing an additional thick washer, which was welded close to the splines and then turned on a lathe.
We assemble all the parts into a single structure, then proceed to painting it.
Using a can of hammer paint, we transform our homemade tool; we cover the tetrahedron and slotted part with masking tape in advance.
After the paint has dried, we get such a very nice impact screwdriver, all that remains is to install a ball with a spring to fix the attachments, and replace the regular bolt with a bolt with a countersunk head.
Hello to all DIY lovers!
Today I want to look at the process of making one of the options for a screwdriver holder, which, in my opinion, is very convenient to use.
I was forced to make such a holder by the need for placement, as well as the subsequent convenient use of one set of screwdrivers.
This set of screwdrivers was sold in a cardboard box, without any holder. True, there is a small hole on the handle of each screwdriver so that they can be hung, say, on a nail. But, as it turned out, due to the very small diameter of these holes, hanging screwdrivers in this way is very inconvenient.
That is why I decided to make a special holder for this set of screwdrivers.
And at first, I thought about making a simple holder, say, so that screwdrivers could simply be inserted into shallow holes and stand in them, or, for example, drilling through holes in a board so that screwdrivers could be inserted into them and hang on the handles.
By the way, I have already made similar tool holders before and here is one such example.
However, in this case, everything was complicated by the fact that such a holder had to be hung quite high above the workbench, since all the lower sections of the wall were already occupied by another tool.
But at such a height (about 1.6-1.7 meters), a simple holder with through holes would not be very convenient. Because, firstly, at such a height, the holes into which you need to insert screwdrivers are practically invisible (as a result, you will have to poke the screwdriver at random each time until you get into the hole), and secondly, the inconvenience is that in order to pull out or insert a screwdriver , it is necessary to lift it high enough above the holder. Naturally, this is very inconvenient (especially for long screwdrivers), since each time you have to lift your hand very high.
That is why I decided to make a holder so that I could take out and insert screwdrivers into it through the slots, only slightly (literally 1-2 cm) lifting them above the holder.
So, let's proceed directly to production.
For this we need the following accessories:
Materials and fasteners:
Wooden plank 2 cm thick, 4 cm wide, and 40-50 cm long.
- Two wood screws 4x55 mm.
Tools:
Drawing and measuring tools (pencil, tape measure and square).
- Shilo.
- A jigsaw with a file for curved cutting.
- Electric drill-screwdriver.
- Hole saw for wood with a diameter of 29 mm.
- Metal drills with a diameter of 4 mm and a diameter of 8 mm.
- Spherical cutter for wood.
- Semicircular chisel.
- Screwdriver bit RN2, for driving screws.
- Sandpaper.
First we make the markings. I chose a distance between screwdrivers of 6 cm, and in total I will have seven screwdrivers in the holder: six from the set and one regular one, which is often needed.
Then we carefully prick the centers of the future holes with an awl and cut them out with a hole saw to a depth of 5-6 mm.
By the way, instead of a hole saw in this case it would be better to use a wood drill bit of the appropriate diameter. In this case, there would be no need to use a semicircular chisel in further work. However, at the moment I did not have a drill bit of the required diameter on hand, so I had to use a hole saw.
When all the holes have been sawed, we clean them with a semicircular chisel. Moreover, in this case there is no need for careful processing; it is enough that the bottoms of the blind holes are more or less even.
Now we drill out the central holes for the screwdrivers with a drill with a diameter of 8 mm so that the screwdriver rods pass through them freely.
We also drill two holes with a diameter of 4 mm on the sides of our holder for screws so that we can attach our holder to the wall.
After this, we countersink our holes a little with a spherical wood cutter.
Then we mark the places for the slots to remove the screwdrivers.
And we cut out these slots with a jigsaw.
Finally, we cut out our entire holder blank.
And this is what our holder looks like almost finished.
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But I have already tried inserting several screwdrivers into it.
Now you need to carefully process the holder with sandpaper and you can also cover it with some kind of protective coating for better safety and durability.
After the protective coating has dried, you can screw our holder to the wall.
And here is our holder with screwdrivers inserted into it.
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Indeed, using such a holder is very convenient, since in order to remove or insert a screwdriver, you just need to lift it slightly.
So if anyone has a problem with screwdriver placement, I recommend making a similar holder. Naturally, you can make a holder of such length and designed for as many screwdrivers as you need.
In addition, you can make several such holders and place them one under the other, at some distance, in general, you can do it as you prefer.
Well, that's all for now and have a good summer!
