Photo notes from Vienna, Austria and other interesting places. Tasty places in Vienna Where to eat Wiener Schnitzel

It is almost impossible to list everything that is worth trying in Vienna from food - there are so many original recipes here:

• Wiener Rindfleischsalat (beef salad);
• Alt-Wiener Suppentopf (meat soup with vegetables and vermicelli);
• Beuschel (stew of light and other veal or pork offal);
• Reisfleisch auf Wiener Art (goulash with rice);
• Wiener Wäschermädln (apricots in dough with marzipan filling);
• Wiener Schlosserbuben (plums baked in dough with marzipan filling);
• Wiener Brötchen (Viennese bread with fish, meat, bacon and other toppings), etc.

In almost every of these restaurants and cafes in Vienna you will find several dishes of national cuisine at once and you can have a tasty and satisfying meal.

In short, your vacation has every chance of becoming a real gastronomic tour. Bon appetit and unforgettable impressions!

Simply taking and writing a report on how we visited Vienna means, at best, in other words, retelling a story that has already been told by tens of thousands of tourists who have been there. Although the city is undoubtedly worth being told about, perhaps a thousand hundred times ... However, let's try to deviate a little from the traditional enumeration of sights and tell you, firstly, how they can be viewed comfortably. Perhaps this will be useful to someone when planning a trip. And, secondly, we will tell a little about what this city is famous for all over the world. The city is famous for its cuisine. This is not Austrian or European, namely Viennese cuisine.

Let's start, as usual, with breakfast.

What to try in Vienna

Let's start with the seemingly unimportant, but food and drinks are an important part of the local culture. Even without being in Austria, almost everyone knows the words “Viennese schnitzel”, “Viennese strudel” and “Viennese coffee”. Yes, Viennese cuisine is an attraction.

Viennese breakfast

- this is not a banal absorption of morning coffee with a sandwich while shaving, and not even oatmeal. It is, first of all, a ceremony. This part of the diet is given importance, perhaps more than dinner. And it's not about the abundance of dishes and their calorie content - here you always have a choice - but in the process itself, serving and an unusual (although maybe not for everyone) set of dishes.

A classic Viennese breakfast necessarily includes a soft-boiled egg, a bun or croissant, butter, coffee, jams, thinly sliced ​​ham, cheese and ... a glass of sparkling white wine (sekt in German). This is how, for pep, a local citizen knocks over a glass of sparkling wine from the very morning, so to speak ... It is clear that you can choose a non-alcoholic breakfast, for example, with a glass of orange juice, but the tradition still pleased.

Coffee is also a separate issue. One local guide on his website strongly advised not to order espresso or americano in local cafes. Such an order, according to him, can simply offend the employees of the institution. The coffee here is really delicious, especially melange (this is Viennese coffee) - coffee with whipped cream. The cappuccino is pretty good though.

After a short walk we are looking for a place for lunch. It is worth looking for a place based on what you want to try. And here the schnitzel comes to the fore.

Wiener Schnitzel

(with a capital letter)

Vienna, of course. Nuance - in some establishments it is indicated: Viennese schnitzel. So Viennese schnitzel and Viennese schnitzel are different dishes, although they may look the same. If you want to try the national Viennese dish, look for the Viennese schnitzel, which is made from veal. Schnitzel in Viennese can be made from pork, but the classic one is made from veal. You have to be careful with portions. The size of a schnitzel can be completely unbearable for a person even with a solid appetite.

It is customary to order potato salad with schnitzel. Despite the apparent simplicity, the dish is very, very appetizing and tasty. However, Viennese cuisine is rich not only in schnitzel. Taffelsplitz is boiled veal served in a saucepan with broth. Very spicy and very tasty.

Desserts in Austria

Here for lovers of sweet - a true expanse. Vienna strudel is just a small part of the sweet happiness that Vienna has to offer. Apart from the strudel, the Sachertort is of course worth a try. This is a cult dish that the Viennese cook both at home and in cafes. However, the original recipe is kept secret by the confectioners of Sacher Café. That is, you can try the mentioned cake in the original only in this cafe.

For dinner, you can treat yourself to ribs - pork ribs or steaks cooked on hot stones.

On the last day, quite by accident, we managed to stumble upon a completely authentic local establishment with shabby sofas, local people and service with a complete lack of knowledge of any language other than German. Bdyuda also had to be chosen virtually at random, because everything is really bad with German. As a result, we got a Wiener Schnitzel (smaller and worse than in the establishment described above) and a chicken salad, but not a Caesar. But deliciously cooked.

If we are talking about food, then you can’t get around the topic of drinking. What is worth trying in Vienna from alcoholic beverages and what, in principle, the city offers us. Let's go to increase the degree.

austrian beer

Do not expect a large assortment in bars and restaurants. As a rule, 2-3 types of beer are offered. Of the well-known in Russia, of course, Gesser ( Gosser).

There are several other varieties, but we do not sell them. In general, the beer is very high quality, but you can’t call the country a beer country. Bars usually only serve local beer. Imported foam, in our case, the Czech Budweiser, was caught once in an eatery, which, apparently, is kept by the Czechs.

Austrian wine

Austria is quite proud of its winemaking, and for good reason. Wine lists in restaurants are quite extensive and offer a large and varied selection of local wines.

Wine is a reflection of the area. So the local wine just confirms this thesis and is located somewhere between Germany and Hungary.

Austrian strong

Liqueurs. In institutions, you can most often meet the German Jägermeister (German Jägermeister), but Gurktaler is considered national. A pleasant drink with a strength of 27 degrees.

Let's move on to more serious drinks. Let's start with the most common - schnapps. I suspect that this drink is more for a tourist. Schnapps is obtained by distillation of various fruits and berries: plum, apricot, pear, apple. There is no dispute about tastes, but the drink seemed very disgusting to me.

It is also worth trying Stroh rum - it is available in several versions: 40, 60 and 80 degrees. It differs from Jamaican, Cuban and other classic rums in a sweetish spicy taste, and in consistency it is more like a liquor than rum.

In a word, for gourmets and just lovers of delicious food, Vienna is a great place.

What to see in Vienna

If ten years ago, when I could not even dream of traveling, I was asked which of the European cities I would like to see first of all, I would name Vienna or Rome. But it just so happened that the years went by, I traveled to almost all European capitals, in some places I became a frequent visitor, and Vienna, which by that time had already been visited by dozens of my friends, remained aloof until December of this last year. But now it's her turn. You may be sure that I made the program of my stay in Vienna very meticulously, in order to make the most of the four days that I had at my disposal. I read reference books and guidebooks, looked at photographs, asked people who had been to Vienna. However, it is not only worth going to Vienna for lunch. Attractions here at every step and in a short time to see them all is not so easy. Although with the hop on hop off sightseeing buses already familiar in Europe, this task is much easier.

P recoup the ticket and ride all day on comfortable buses with a Russian-speaking audio guide all day long on three routes and all the sights of Vienna are in your pocket. The weather in Vienna in the spring is excellent - cool, dry and comfortable.

You can get off at any stop, take a walk, take pictures and, after waiting for the next bus, go further. All bus routes start from the stop at the Vienna Opera. There you will be offered a ticket for the evening performance. You need at least two days to ride all the routes and you should remember that these tourist buses do not operate on Sunday. I must say that practically nothing works in the city on weekends, so the purchase of souvenirs should be planned for weekdays.

Viennese sketches

The building of the New Town Hall, impressive enough during the day, in the evening floats at you like a giant ship with towers-masts, and the trees are completely hung with multi-colored and various-shaped lanterns.

There are benches under the trees, and the Viennese shop there with sausages and mustard, washed down with punch. It is interesting that Vienna, although it lies on the Danube, was built away from it, and a canal was built for the delivery of goods, coming directly to the center. The center itself is formally limited by this channel and the Ring - a kind of Boulevard Ring.

There are trams along the Ring, and there are almost all the buildings symbolizing the heyday of the Austro-Hungarian Empire in the 19th century: the Stock Exchange, the University, the City Theatre, the City Hall, the Parliament, the museums of the history of nature and art, the Hofburg and the Opera. To get inside the center, you can use the two metro stations located there, as well as buses, the routes of which are very confusing. Public transport in Vienna is thought out perfectly and is inexpensive: there are cards for all types of transport for 5 euros for 24 hours and for 10 euros for 72 hours. There are also cards for three days for 18 euros, giving a discount to museums; in order for them to pay off, you need to visit at least five museums in three days.

I think it's worth buying these cards even if you're on an organized trip, as riding a Viennese tram one or two stops is a pleasure and makes life a lot easier. I lived in the excellent Deutschmaster Hotel, where our groups often stay. It is located north of the ring, one tram stop from it, and I did not experience any inconvenience. Of course, if funds allow, it is better to settle in the center, closer to the Cathedral of St. Stephen.

Guidebooks somehow vaguely define the comparative dignity of different museums. For example, before my visit to Vienna, even after studying the catalogs, I could not understand whether there was a qualitative difference between the museum of the history of fine arts and the art gallery of the Academy. It seems there are masterpieces here and there. That's right, but Kunstistorische is one of the biggest museums in the world, and the Academy is just a university, an ordinary university with bulletin boards, dirty corridors and anxious disheveled art students, where on the third floor there is a small gallery with one of the best in world of Boschs and a couple of prominent old men of the 15th century. Even if you love Bosch and old Germans, like me, there is nothing to do there for more than forty minutes.

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The culinary diversity of Viennese cuisine is an attraction that attracts tourists from all over the world no less than the medieval colossus of St. Stephen's Cathedral, the majestic beauty of the Hofburg and Schönbrun, the shocking originality of the Hunertwasser house and other beauties of the great capital of the Habsburgs. Today we will tell you about the most famous dishes of Viennese cuisine and leave you the opportunity to discover the secrets of local chefs on your own. Believe me, they are worth it!

About Wiener Schnitzel

Image by Hornplayer

Wiener schnitzel is the pinnacle of the culinary tradition of Viennese cuisine. Beaten to an incredibly thin state, in a crispy breading, it melts in your mouth and it's hard to believe that it's beef. Schnitzel is served with lingonberry sauce and lemon and is usually accompanied by mashed potatoes or potato salad.

It is believed that the schnitzel was introduced to the Viennese public by Field Marshal Radetzky (yes, the one in whose honor Strauss wrote his "March"), who, in turn, borrowed this idea in Italy, where he had previously served for some time. It seems to me that this is just a legend, which, in other words, does not make the schnitzel less tasty ...

In order to really enjoy the Viennese schnitzel, you need to "hit" with the choice of an institution. In most places where I tried the schnitzel, it was the usual breaded chop, which is served throughout the vastness of our Motherland. But when you find yourself in the right place ... For my taste, the most correct restaurant was Figmueller , whose owners claim that they have the largest schnitzel in the world. I don't know about it, but the portions are really big.

About the war between Sacher and Demel

The Sacher Torte is perhaps the most famous dessert in Viennese cuisine, rivaled only by strudel.

This cake owes its appearance in 1832 to Metternich, who, organizing another reception for high-ranking guests, demanded that a very special dessert be prepared for them. Unfortunately, the chef was ill that day, and the difficult task fell on the shoulders of sixteen-year-old Franz Sacher. The young man did not let Metternich down, the guests were happy, and the recipe was safely put on the shelf.

Franz's eldest son Eduard, who worked for the famous Viennese confectioner Demel, somewhat changed his father's recipe and was the first to sell the cake under the "brand" Demel, as they say, to the general public since 1876. Some time later, Eduard opened his own hotel and restaurant Sacher, which also served Sacher cake.

Already in the 20th century, a legal war broke out between the heirs of Sacher and Demel for the right to call their products the original Sacher cake. After two decades of litigation, it was agreed that the name Original Sacher-Torte with a round chocolate medal remained with the Sacher Hotel and Café, while at Demel you can still taste the Eduard Sacher-Torte with a triangular medal. In Demel and Sacher stores you can buy cakes of different sizes in gift boxes. Great souvenir!

By the way, having visited the Demel restaurant and the restaurant at the Sacher hotel, I concluded for myself that I should visit both. First, they both have excellent cuisine. Secondly, the interior and the clothes of the waitresses in Denel are worth seeing. Thirdly, the restaurant of the Sacher Hotel has a DELICIOUS vegetable soup with beef broth!

About melange

Since we talked about the Sacher cake, it must be said about the melange, which is very harmonious with this dessert. Melange in Vienna is what we call (surprise!) Viennese coffee: coffee with milk in half and cream on top (regular, not whipped). Very tasty, but really a lot of calories, so it's better not to get carried away.

About sausages and beer

Well, everything is simple here. Sausages with beer in Vienna can be eaten everywhere. They are consistently beautiful. My personal advice: do not go to beer restaurants! Vienna is better than any restaurant. :) Walk to the Danube embankment, there are a lot of benches and stalls selling sausages and beer. Take both, sit on the beach and enjoy!

About strudel

Strudel became popular throughout the Habsburg Empire as early as the 18th century, although the oldest surviving recipe for its preparation dates back to 1696 and is kept in the Vienna City Library. They say that the ancestor of strudel is the sugary sweet desserts of Byzantium. The word strudel itself is traced back to Old German, where, according to etymologists, it meant "whirlwind".

In Vienna, they will try to feed you apple strudel at every turn. :) The most wonderful "strudel" memory can be a visit to the strudel show, where it is cooked right in front of you and then treated. The skills of the strudel master, who stretches the sheet of dough to the thinnest state with his hands without using a rolling pin, are amazing, as well as the fact that the sheet is so thin that you can read the text through it.

If people ask me where to dine in Vienna, most often I advise you to go to the Figlmüller restaurant (German: Figlmüller). This is one of the most popular restaurants in Vienna and despite the constant flow of tourists, it always has a very tasty schnitzel and good service.

The most popular dish in this restaurant is not the classic Wiener Schnitzel, but the signature Figlmüller schnitzel (German: Figlmüller Schnitzel), the edges of which hang from the plate :)

2. There are two Figlmuller restaurants in Vienna. The first restaurant was opened by Johann Figlmüller in 1905. It is located behind St. Stephen's Cathedral, in the Wollzeile lane. Due to increased popularity, another restaurant was opened in 2001 on Bäckerstraße, a stone's throw away from the first one.

3. Modest decoration for Christmas.

4. Bar at the entrance. Usually there are crowds of visitors who have not booked a table in advance on the site. You can wait 10-15 minutes for a free table, with rare exceptions during popular times.

5. All free space in the building is used for tables. You can be seated downstairs in a basement, upstairs under a vaulted ceiling, or in a neighboring building, where you will be taken through the hallway of an apartment building entrance. Even in the corridor, not far from the kitchen and toilet, they squeezed two seats into a small opening where we were lucky enough to have dinner three years ago.

7. That rare time when there was almost no one in the next room except us. It lasted about five minutes :)

9. Not the biggest table by the window

10. For drinks, you can order local wine or beer. Local beer Ottakringer is produced in the 16th district of Vienna. The most popular wines are usually red dry Zweigelt (German Zweigelt), Blaufränkisch (German Blaufränkisch) or white Grüner Veltliner (German Grüner Veltliner), Riesling (German Riesling).

12. An excellent addition to schnitzel is potato salad.

13. Potato salad is a cold dish with an unusual sauce. In addition to pumpkin oil, which can be seen in the photo, the salad is dressed with an unknown lemon-flavored sauce.

14. In Figlmuller you can buy a book with original recipes.

15. The biggest schnitzel in Vienna is Figlmüller's signature schnitzel.

16. The original Figlmuller schnitzel is 250 grams of pork, which is beaten to a uniform thickness of 5 mm. Schnitzel diameter is almost 30 cm.

17. Classic Vienna Schnitzel is made from veal.

18. Wollzeile lane.

19. Once in the summer we stood in line here for an hour and a half. This restaurant only serves wine for drinks.

The photographs are collected from several visits to Figlmüller's restaurant. The last shots of the alley were taken on the phone :)

Usually restaurants are visited because of the beautiful original interior and delicious cuisine. Figlmuller is more like a restaurant of one delicious schnitzel. By the way, if you could not finish your schnitzel, they will pack it in paper and a branded package.
Do you have a favorite restaurant somewhere?

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Wiener schnitzel, Viennese strudel, Viennese coffee... On my first visit to Vienna, I never really tried all these dishes in the city, after which they were named. I remember how we wandered around the city in the evening, trying to find at least one place where they serve strudel, but stumbled upon only bars. However, having arrived in Vienna for the second time, I was already fully armed - with appearances (and in some places even reservations) of the best restaurants and cafes of Viennese cuisine.

However, I do not pretend to be the truth, but I will tell only about those places where we visited ourselves. Almost all of these establishments were recommended to us by friends who have been living in Vienna for several years and have the opportunity to compare.

Let's start with the Wiener Schnitzel. We have chosen the restaurant Figlmüller, which has been specializing in schnitzel for over 100 years. However, it turned out that it was not so easy to get there. The hall was full, and right in front of us the owner refused entry to two Chinese, saying that there were no seats. I was about to look for another place, but Natasha persuaded me to come in. The owner looked at us carefully and... found a great table for two. Apparently, face control works here. :-)

We ordered a couple of schnitzels, but when they brought them to us, it became clear that we could not eat so much. :-) Together we mastered only one portion, and the second we were offered to wrap up with us - and we finished this delicious thing already in St. Petersburg the next morning.

It would seem that a simple thing is a thin piece of breaded veal, and they cook it here in such a way that you will lick your fingers.

If you suddenly want to repeat our experience, the restaurant is located on Wollzeile street, house 5, disguised in a narrow alley. This is the area of ​​St. Stephen's Cathedral, literally a couple of minutes on foot from it.

However, Vienna is famous not only for schnitzel. There is another dish here, not so famous, but exclusively Viennese. It's called "tafelspitz". They invented it, as they say, for the Emperor of the Austrian Empire, Franz Joseph the First, who was very fond of meat, but, having grown old, lost his teeth and could not chew it, as before. To please the emperor, the cooks boiled the meat, bringing it to such a degree of softness that the old man could easily cope with it.

(photos here are not mine, I was in this restaurant without a camera)

Tafelspitz is tender boiled beef served with side dishes and seasonings. There is a whole ritual of eating this dish - we did not know it, but the waiter told us everything (fortunately, Natasha speaks German) and unobtrusively helped to do everything.

So, first, the broth is poured into a separate bowl, which can be eaten with a spoon.

Then a special brain bone is taken out of the pan, the contents of which are smeared on a piece of bread. Salt, pepper and herbs - to taste. You can eat with your hands. :-)

And finally, everything else - the meat is transferred to a plate along with fried potatoes (yum-yum!), sour cream sauce with horseradish and spinach puree.

What can I say - it's good to be an emperor. :-) I liked everything except the spinach. :-) And we tried this joy in the Plachutta restaurant, Wollzeile street, house 38, not far from the city park. This restaurant specializes in Tafelspitze (although there are other dishes, of course) and is very popular, so it's best to book in advance.

Another discovery for us in Vienna was how ribs are cooked here. I've eaten them all over the world, but Salm Bräu outshone them all.

Finding it is easy - it's near the side entrance to the Belvedere Gardens, Rennweg 8:

We were told by the locals what awesome ribs are here, so we didn’t delve into the menu for a long time - a portion of ribs for two. And they brought them to us.

So, we both ate this huge portion and licked our lips. The case when you want more and more, but the body refuses completely. :-)

But let's move on to desserts. :-) We decided to try the Viennese apple strudel with Viennese coffee in the famous cafe "Mozart", which has been operating since 1794. It is located in the very center - between the Opera and the Albertina Gallery, Albertinaplatz, 2: https://www.google.ru/maps/place/Caf%C3%A9+Mozart/@48.2036208,16.3693772,266m/data=!3m1! 1e3!4m2!3m1!1s0x476d079c7350a9b9:0x5d54ebb3b1dc1785!6m1!1e1

The strudel turned out to be above all praise - the thinnest dough, hot fragrant filling of apples and nuts, and cold ice cream.

They say that the local strudels are prepared according to the same recipes, the originals of which have been kept in the Vienna City Library since 1696.

And finally, one of my favorite cakes, the recipe of which was born right here in Vienna.

We are talking, of course, about the Sacher cake. Variations on the theme of this cake can also be found in Russia, but they cannot be compared with the original Viennese "Sacher". Moreover, there are two official versions of this cake - the fact is that the son of its inventor, Franz Sacher, Eduard Sacher, worked in the Demel confectionery, where he slightly changed the original recipe. When the cake became popular, a legal dispute broke out between the Sachers and the Demel confectionery, whose cake is more correct, which lasted almost 30 years, until the parties came to a compromise: the Sacher cake became known as the "Original Sacher Cake" (with a round chocolate seal), and a variant of the confectionery "Demel" - "Demelevsky cake Sacher" (with a triangular chocolate seal).

I chose the original version and went to try it in the cafe "Sacher", which is located in the hotel of the same name - it's around the corner from the "Mozart", opposite the Opera.

Everything as the doctor ordered: round seal, strict presentation.

The cake is just the way I like it - without cloying sweetness, with tart chocolate and apricot notes. I liked it so much that I bought another whole cake as a gift for my mother - she is also my lover.

That's all for now, otherwise the saliva is already flowing. If you're eating right now, bon appetit. :-)

My past travels.