Recipe and technology for the production of Soviet boiled sausage. The history of the creation of "Doctor's" sausage

In the territory where the Soviet Union once existed, they were very fond of doctor's sausage (and now they eat it with pleasure). She was appreciated in the Baltic States, and in Kazakhstan, and in the poor post-war years, and in the prosperous seventies. But few consumers knew why the sausage is called "Doctor's". Everyone is accustomed to this name of the product, although for some reason it shocked foreigners. If “Language” or “Chicken” sausages were made from offal and poultry meat, then one could only guess what was included in the “Doctor's” and “Children's”. The meaning of these names has been forgotten over time. And let's remember the history of the doctor's sausage. To do this, we have to go back to the thirties of the last century.

The more nutritious, the healthier

The village physician often dealt with patients whose ailment was rooted in poor nutrition. After all, the peasants ate meat only on holidays, and their daily diet consisted of cereals and lean cabbage soup. To cure anemia and similar ailments, the doctor ordered the patient to eat more fatty meat. Maybe this is the secret of why doctor's sausage is called "doctor's"? On a doctor's prescription? Partly yes. Doctor's sausage is very nutritious. And, indeed, doctors believed that it was good to eat it with anemia or after a long fast. But doctor's sausage can hardly be called fatty. It is truly dietary. And it wasn't just some doctor who came up with it. The composition of the sausage was approved by the People's Commissariat of Health. Why did the Country of Soviets so need a special "medical" prescription?

Where did the name "doctor's sausage" come from?

The thirties of the last century… The NEP policy was cancelled. Collectivization, coupled with the seizure of crops from the peasants, led to famine. Huge masses of the population experienced a lack of food. Prolonged starvation led to outbreaks of various diseases. Around the same time, the politician Anastas Ivanovich Mikoyan visited the United States in 1930. During his visit, he also visited Chicago, where he got a firsthand look at how the American meat industry works. Returning to the USSR, Mikoyan, based on the experience gained, created the First Moscow Sausage Factory. This factory was later named after its creator. VNII nutritionists have developed and submitted for approval to the People's Commissariat of Health a recipe for a new sausage product. It, as stated in the documents, was intended specifically for "healing nutrition of the sick, whose health was undermined by the Civil War and tsarist despotism." It is not difficult now to guess why the doctor's sausage got such a name. Even according to the documents, she was a medicine prescribed by a doctor.

Doctor's sausage according to GOST

The government, of course, was disingenuous about the reasons for the mass starvation of the population. But a medicine that quickly restores strength was nevertheless found. The doctor's prescription was verified to the smallest detail. To prepare one hundred kilograms of doctor's sausage, it was necessary to take 25 kg of trimmed beef meat (pulp of the highest grade, without connective tissues), 70 kg of pork (also first-class quality, lean, without fat), two liters of whole cow's milk and seventy-five chicken eggs. But from the spices it was allowed to add only salt, sugar, a little cardamom and nutmeg. Why is doctor's sausage called "doctor's"? Yes, because it was prescribed for patients with stomach ulcers, colitis and other ailments of the gastrointestinal tract. This nutritious product was really dietary. He could rightfully be included in the diet of children. By the way, at the Moscow plant named after Mikoyan, where in 1936 the first stick “Doctorskoy” rolled off the assembly line, other equally popular brands of sausages were invented: “Amateur”, “Braunschweigskaya”, “Teahouse”.

Gradual surrender of positions

The recipe for the meat product was approved by GOST, which was strictly adhered to until the seventy-fourth year. Why was it necessary to change the recipe during the "general prosperity"? When the country moved from building a bright future to a stage, it suddenly became clear that the number of livestock is not as large as we would like. In addition, they began to feed the pigs with the waste of the fishing industry, which is why the meat of animals acquired an unpleasant odor. Already GOST 1974 allows the use of starch and flour in the preparation of doctor's sausage. But this was only the beginning of the fall of the once high standard of quality. GOST 23670-79 allowed the use of melange, milk powder and pork skins instead of eggs. Soon, flavor enhancers and antioxidants came into play. The loaf was wrapped in cellophane. That is why gourmets began to ask in bewilderment: “And why is doctor’s sausage called “doctor’s”?”

GOST and TU

In the early 2000s, a myriad of businesses emerged exploiting the popularity of the brand. They cooked their sausage in such a way that it was impossible to call it a dietary product. The current State Standard (2011) allows the use of flour, starch, sodium nitrite in the preparation of the product, and dry substitutes instead of natural eggs and milk. But there are manufacturers who offer the TU product. This abbreviation stands for "Specifications". They have nothing to do with GOST and are developed by the enterprise itself. And it is no longer known why doctor's sausage is called that - after all, it contains smoke flavor, antioxidants E 300-306, addictive monosodium glutamate, stabilizers and acidity regulators. It is unlikely that such a dubious cocktail of all kinds of E-additives can be considered a dietary product.

Why sausage is called "doctor's"

We have already told the origin of the name of this product. The question should be put differently: does it have the right to continue to be considered "medical" food? Folk art has already begun to make up jokes about its dubious quality. For example, in one of them, which is very revealing, the answer to the question of why doctor's sausage is called "doctor's" is given: because after eating it, you need to urgently consult a doctor.

Calories, kcal:

Proteins, g:

Carbohydrates, g:

Boiled sausages are in constant demand and popularity, the most famous variety is doctor's sausage. Boiled doctor's sausage got its name in 1936, when it was developed and produced at the Moscow meat processing plant named after A.I. Mikoyan. Initially, doctor's sausage was supposed to be a dietary product for those who suffered from the consequences of prolonged starvation.

Doctor's boiled sausage is produced in accordance with GOST 33673-2015, therefore the use of this name for meat products not produced according to the standard is prohibited. Doktorskaya sausage has a fairly dense and elastic, almost uniform texture, pink color, pleasant recognizable taste and aroma. Boiled doctor's sausage is produced in the form of cylinders, packed in cellophane or a special food casing.

Calorie boiled doctor's sausage

The calorie content of boiled doctor's sausage is 257 kcal per 100 grams of product.

The composition and useful properties of boiled doctor's sausage

In the composition of the product: , or , or , spices ( or ). In this case, the meat should be at least 95% of the mass of the sausage. The presence of sodium nitrite is due to the fact that the additive affects the color and smell of the product, but disappears during heat treatment during the production process (calorizator). Doctor's boiled sausage contains, which is involved in the synthesis of hormones and is necessary for the normal functioning of the thyroid gland, as well as a heme form, which is quickly absorbed by the body.

Harm of boiled doctor's sausage

Despite the dietary qualities of doctor's sausage, it should be remembered that the product contains almost 2% salt, which retains fluid in the body and can cause edema. Doctor's sausage contains allergen products, so those who are prone to allergic reactions should use the product with caution.

Selection and storage of boiled doctor's sausage

When choosing a product, you should carefully study the labels on the packaging. The fact that the product is manufactured in accordance with GOST must be indicated. Additions to the name, for example, “classic”, “premium”, “traditional”, “extra”, etc., in the absence of an indication of GOST, indicate that the sausage is a falsified product.

According to the storage standards specified in the standard, boiled doctor's sausage is stored in the refrigerator for 72 hours.

Boiled doctor's sausage in cooking

Boiled doctor's sausage is a traditional addition to bread for breakfast. Doctor's sausage is fried, added to scrambled eggs and scrambled eggs, to hodgepodge and stewed vegetables, used instead of boiled meat for salads.

For more about doctor's sausage, its benefits or harm, see the video "Doctor's sausage - useful or not?" TV show "Life is great!".

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I always take only "Doctor's" in the store. I do not like anything else, and even more so something with lard. Smoked once a year is possible, ham is so-so rare, but "Doctor's" is super.

But the history of the "Doctor's" sausage is a reflection of almost the entire Soviet history with its breaks and complexities.

Look here...

The 1930s of the twentieth century were both difficult and joyful for the USSR at the same time. The fratricidal Civil War is over, the national economy is being restored. Almost throughout the entire territory of the country, the unification of individual peasant farms into collective farms has been completed, the kulaks have been liquidated as a class. Great construction projects are underway, a powerful industry is being created, which in a decade will allow the country to win the Great War ...

Despite all the great plans, there is not enough meat in the country - the previous difficult years are affecting. And the health of the population must be restored and maintained - the builders of communism must be strong and healthy. Therefore, the idea arises to create a product with a high protein content that could replace meat. Anastas Ivanovich Mikoyan, since 1934 People's Commissar of the Food Industry of the USSR, will play a special role in the creation and development of the food industry in the USSR and in the history of the "Doctor's" sausage. It was he who had to create the country's food industry from scratch. Mikoyan chose the United States as a model, where this industry was already quite well developed. Thanks to the borrowing of "industrial" American food, several varieties of sausages and sausages, industrially processed milk, various canned food, ice cream appeared on the tables of Soviet citizens ...

Under the close personal control of Mikoyan in the USSR, the construction of several large food industry enterprises begins - for the manufacture of milk, sausages, and canned food.

April 29, 1936 A.I. Mikoyan signed a decree on the start of the production of several varieties of sausages, a special place among which was occupied by a sausage designed to "correct the health of people who had poor health as a result of the Civil War and suffered from the arbitrariness of the tsarist regime." It was assumed that this type of sausage would be intended for those treated in sanatoriums and hospitals.

The formulation of this product was developed by the best specialists of the country, doctors, employees of the All-Russian Research Institute of the Meat Industry. According to the recipe (GOST 23670-79), 100 kg of sausage should have contained 25 kg of premium beef, 70 kg of semi-fat pork, 3 kg of eggs or melange and 2 kg of cow's milk powder whole or skimmed for 100 kg of sausage. Minced meat for sausage was made from fresh meat and had to go through a double cutting. As seasonings, a minimum of table salt was used; granulated sugar or glucose; ground nutmeg or cardamom, spicy seasonings were excluded.

There is a legend that initially they wanted to give the name “Stalinskaya” to this sausage. However, the authors of the recipe quickly realized that the combination "Stalin's sausage" could be misunderstood by the all-powerful NKVD and came up with a name that remained in history and well reflected the quality and purpose of this product.
Until the 1950s, the recipe and quality of the sausage was unchanged according to the standard. Of course, the sausages produced by different meat processing plants varied. It also depended on the quality of the raw materials supplied to the plant and on the experience of the employees. The sausage of the Mikoyanovsky Meat Processing Plant became an ideal and a model - the metropolitan giant, which supplied the nomenclature in the first place, purchased the most expensive and high-quality raw materials. At the same time, sausage was by no means an integral part of the special ration of representatives of the party and state elite - it could be bought in almost any grocery store.
Interestingly, the cost of "Doctor's" was significantly higher than its retail price. In the shops "Doctor" was sold at 2 rubles 20 kopecks. With this money in the mid-70s, you could buy, for example, 220 boxes of matches, 11 ice creams in a waffle cup, 10 packs of Belomorkanal cigarettes, i.e. the price of this sausage was quite acceptable for ordinary citizens.

Changes in the quality of sausages began only in the 70s and this was primarily due to the difficulties that the continuously reformed agriculture began to experience and, of course, the drought and crop failure in the early 70s. It was at this time that it was allowed to add up to 2% starch or flour to minced meat.

Cardinal changes in the fate of sausages - like all countries - will begin in the mid-80s. The composition of the feedstock will change, in 1997 a new GOST will appear, in accordance with which the name “doctoral” will turn into a brand.

There is such an addition. Here is the phrase: According to the recipe (GOST 23670-79), 100 kg of sausage should have contained 25 kg of premium beef, 70 kg of semi-fat pork, 3 kg of eggs or melange and 2 kg of dry whole cow's milk per 100 kg of sausage. or low fat"

This is all fine, but there is another point in this GOST:

2.6. It is allowed to use in the production of boiled sausages, sausages, sausages and meat loaves:
food phosphates in the amount of 0.3% by weight of raw materials (in terms of anhydrous);

- sodium ascorbate or ascorbic acid in the amount of 50 g per 100 kg of raw materials;

Smoke preparations approved by the USSR Ministry of Health;

Pasteurized cow's milk with a mass fraction of fat of 2.5 and 3.2% in the amount of 8 kg instead of 1 kg of whole milk powder with a decrease in the mass of added moisture by 7 kg;

Cow pasteurized non-fat milk in the amount of 11.5 kg instead of 1 kg of skimmed milk powder with a decrease in the mass of added moisture by 10.5 kg;

Powdered cream with a fat content of 42% in the amount of 1 kg instead of 2.1 kg of cream from cow's milk with 20% fat content;

Whole cow's milk powder with a fat content of 25% in the amount of 1 kg instead of 610 g of dry cream with a fat content of 42% or 1281 g of cream from cow's milk with 20% fat content;

egg powder in the amount of 274 g instead of 1 kg of melange or 1 kg (24 pcs.) of chicken eggs;

Trimmed buffalo, yak meat instead of trimmed beef of the corresponding grade in the production of premium grade sausages up to 50%, first and second grades up to 100%;

Boiled sausages, sausages, sausages and meat loaves of the highest and first grade with manufacturing defects (scrap, deformed loaves, with minced meat over the shell, broth-fat edema, etc.) for the production of boiled sausages, sausages, sausages and meat loaves of the first grade; second grade - for the production of sausages and meat loaves of the second grade in an amount of up to 3% by weight of raw materials in excess of the recipe;

Hemoglobin preparation or food blood in the amount of 0.5-1% by weight of the raw material;

Extracts of spices and garlic instead of natural ones;

Trim beef trimmed in an amount of up to 10% - for beef sausages and sausages of the first grade and up to 30% - for tea sausage, tea meat bread to the mass of trimmed beef of the second grade provided for in the recipes, instead of its corresponding amount;

Cut meat trimmed pork in an amount of up to 10% - for boiled sausages, meat loaves, sausages of the first grade and up to 20% - for boiled sausages, meat loaves of the second grade to the mass of trimmed bold pork, provided for in the recipes, instead of its corresponding amount. It is not allowed to use beef trimmed beef trimmings and trimmed pork trimmed meat trimmed together;

Protein stabilizer to the mass of raw materials in an amount of up to 5% - for boiled sausages, sausages and meat loaves of the first grade and up to 6% - for boiled sausages and meat loaves of the second grade;

The mass of meat beef, pork and mutton to the mass of raw materials in an amount of up to 5% - for boiled sausages, sausages and meat loaves of the first grade and up to 6% - for boiled sausages and meat loaves of the second grade. For separate mutton sausage - up to 15% of the mass of meat from lean mutton instead of single-grade trimmed mutton;

A mass of meat beef, pork or mutton, obtained by processing bones in saline solutions, in the amount of 4 kg instead of 1 kg of meat mass obtained by mechanical pressing, with a decrease in the mass of added water by 3 kg;

Food plasma (serum) of the blood of slaughtered animals to the mass of raw materials in the following quantities:

up to 5% instead of added water in the production of boiled sausages, frankfurters, sausages and meat loaves of the highest grade;

up to 15% in return for added water in the production of boiled sausages, frankfurters, sausages and meat loaves of the first and second grade;

up to 10% instead of 2% trimmed pork meat and 8% water or 3% trimmed beef (or lamb) meat and 7% water

or up to 15% instead of 3% trimmed pork and 12% water or 4% trimmed beef (or mutton) and 11% water;

Cuts obtained from cleaning boiled smoked meats instead of raw beef or pork fat in an amount of up to 10% in the production of beef sausages, beef sausages, beef meat bread;

Pasteurized non-fat cow's milk instead of added water in an amount 5% higher than the recommended rate of water, except for doctor's sausages, milk sausages, with sorbitol, ordinary sausages, dairy sausages;

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Doctor's sausage prepared according to GOST is a very high-quality and healthy product, the main ingredients of which are meat and spices.

But nowadays, most manufacturers are trying to reduce the production costs of natural ingredients, while reducing quality.

From this, in the products previously respected and loved by the people, all sorts of not too tasty and healthy additives appear.

We invite you to return to the good old traditions and cook real Doctor's sausage with your own hands.

History of Doktorskaya sausage

According to legend, the order to create the "Doctor's" sausage came from Stalin himself.

In addition, the People's Commissariat of Health, with which the recipe was coordinated, is most directly related to the doctor's sausage.

According to the People's Commissar's verdict, the new product was intended for "sick people who undermined their health as a result of the Civil War and tsarist despotism."

The first loaf of "Doctor's" sausage rolled off the assembly line of the Moscow Meat Processing Plant in 1936.

It is claimed that Doctor's sausage contains all the vitamins and minerals necessary for a healthy and fulfilling life.

The recipe for “amending the health of persons affected by the arbitrariness of the tsarist regime” was verified by Moscow doctors to the smallest detail: 100 kg of sausage contained 25 kg of premium beef, 70 kg of bold pork, 3 kg of eggs and 2 kg of cow's milk. Basically, just what the doctor ordered.

So, by the way, her name appeared. Then hardly anyone could have imagined that the doctor's sausage would have such a long and significant life.

This product has become a real gastronomic hit for more than one generation of citizens; it was accepted at the table both in the Kremlin and in families with the most modest incomes.

Everyone respected the doctoral dissertation, regardless of social status. She was known as a symbol of well-being in the years of total scarcity.

And its cost has become one of the benchmarks for comparative analysis: economists are very fond of measuring salaries for clarity by the amount of doctoral sausage that can be bought with it.

Food workers explain such a consumer triumph by the high content of high-quality fresh meat.

However, during the years of developed socialism, the reputation of a favorite product was dealt a lot of blows.

It all started with an innovative proposal to include fish in the diet of pigs, which was noticeably reflected in the smell of sausage.

Imported frozen beef, the supply of which became massive in the period of early capitalism, did not improve its palatability. And yet the famous brand survived all the tests.

Doctor's sausage was obtained from beef (25%), semi-fat pork (70%), eggs and milk powder (5%).

The complete absence of bacon determined the uniform, light pink color of minced meat on the cut. It had a delicate taste and smell of cardamom.

Doctor's sausage recipe according to GOST industrial

Ingredients according to GOST 23670-79, unsalted raw materials (per 100 kg):

  • trimmed beef of the highest grade - 25 kg
  • trimmed pork fat - 70 kg
  • chicken eggs or egg melange - 3 kg
  • cow's milk powder whole or skimmed - 2 kg
  • edible salt - 2.090 kg
  • sodium nitrite - 7.1 g
  • granulated sugar or glucose - 200 g
  • ground nutmeg or cardamom - 50 g
  • water/ice: 20-25 kg (about 50/50 ratio)

Preparation of Doctor's sausage according to GOST:

1. Place a 3 mm grate on the top and pass the pork and beef through it separately.

2. Place well-sharpened chord blades on the cutter. Load first the whole beef, 1/2 ice water, sodium nitrite, salt and spices, egg. Grind under vacuum (if available on the cutter) until a homogeneous emulsion is obtained. Cutting time is 5-7 minutes, the temperature at the end of the process is not higher than 8 degrees.

2. Without stopping the cutter bowl, add the pork, milk and remaining water with ice, turn on the vacuum and at high speeds of the knives and bowl, chop until cooked - until smooth. Cuttering stops at minced meat temperature of 12 degrees. Take out the prepared stuffing.

The amount of water depends on the type of shell. If it is a barrier plastic - then 20 liters, natural intestines (bruises, blisters, circles) - then 25-30 liters can be.

3. Transfer the minced meat to, shape the loaves and leave them on the draft in a room with a temperature of approximately 6 degrees to hang on the frame for 30-60 minutes.

The standard diameter of a doctor's loaf is 10-15 cm. But there are also Mortadella giants with a diameter of half a meter and a weight of several hundred kg.

4. If you have a plastic shell, then drying is carried out in the heat chamber (humidity is not set, the temperature in the chamber is 55-60 degrees, the time is 30-40 minutes) and cooking at 78-80 degrees to a temperature in the center of the loaf of 72 degrees.

5. Cooling - showering with cold water (can be immersed in a vat) for at least 40 minutes.

Doctor's sausage according to GOST at home

1. Grind pork and beef separately in a meat grinder with 3 mm grate holes.

2. Salt and add sugar according to the recipe above, knead and put in separate containers in the refrigerator for 6-12 hours to ripen the minced meat.

3. Mix both types of minced meat and pass through a meat grinder with holes in the 3 mm grate at least 4-5 times with the addition of finely crushed ice. If you have a blender, you can further grind to a puree state.

4. Fill, if there are factory-made sausage casings, with the resulting minced meat, patting lightly in the process of forming a loaf of sausage and tamping to force out air voids and compact the consistency.

Thin pork or beef intestines are not suitable for Doktorskaya type sausages. It is better to fill with minced meat a cleaned pork stomach or intestines of large diameter, the so-called bungs.

5. Round the edges of the sausage loaf and tie tightly with at least a double knot. Use a small pin to poke holes in the escaping steam during heat treatment.

6. Boil the finished sausage loaves in a saucepan over low heat without boiling at a water temperature of no more than 80-85 degrees, otherwise it will burst, 2-3 hours. The temperature inside the sausage in the center should reach at least 70 degrees C.

It is better to steam with less loss of juice and nutrients.

7. Cool the finished sausage under running cold water at a temperature of at least 10 ° C or put in a container with ice.

Doctor's sausage is called doctor's because. it is a low-fat dietary product (Theory)

Doktorskaya sausage appeared in 1936 (development of the plant named after A.I. Mikoyan) as a dietary product: “... for patients with poor health as a result of the Civil War and tsarist despotism.” It would seem that both the war and despotism are over, live, eat sausage and enjoy life ... but no - the year 1937 has come ...

All these years, the doctor's sausage has changed (and we, along with it). What should it be according to GOST? Here is a detailed historical background:


What did the doctor prescribe for us?

Doctor's sausage, recipe composition according to GOST 23670-79, unsalted raw materials, kg (per 100 kg): trimmed beef of the highest grade - 25; pork trimmed bold - 70; chicken eggs or melange - 3; cow's milk powder whole or skimmed - 2; spices and other materials, g (per 100 kg of unsalted raw materials): table salt - 2090; sodium nitrite - 7.1; granulated sugar or glucose - 200; nutmeg or ground cardamom - 50. That's all, the rest is shells and manufacturing technology. As can be seen from the recipe, there are no legendary additives from jokes about sausage from the 70s, namely: recycled wrapping paper, used toilet paper or common marine plankton, etc. - not in the doctorate.

Today, "Doctorskaya" of the highest grade is produced in three types of casing: natural protein, from pig intestine and vapor-gas-tight synthetic. In the latter, sausage is stored longer, because. creates the effect of vacuum packaging. Those sausages that are not in a vapor-gas-tight casing to improve conservation technology are produced smoked. In my opinion, they smoke a little. Well, not everyone likes it.

According to organoleptic characteristics, i.e. in appearance and taste, the domestic “Doctor’s” of the late 20th century is no worse than the one that was eaten by the generation of the late 40s and early 50s. The former taste of sausage returned. True, I did not feel the aroma that many of us remembered. What is the matter here: whether we have grown old or the general ecological state of the environment in which animals are fattened for meat has changed is difficult to establish. Regardless of this, if anyone faces an alternative, what to give preference to: imported or domestic boiled sausages, I recommend “Doctor's” without leavened patriotism. In addition, many large factories are now setting up their own fattening bases to supply meat production facilities.

What's in a name

If you are lucky enough to find something similar to our doctor's sausage in old recipe guides, but with a different name, do not rush to accuse the creators of the sausage in plagiarism. Creating popular products is like the birth of large cities. For example, a settlement on Borovitsky Hill must have existed for more than one century before it was mentioned in chronicles in 1147 under the name Moscow.

The birthday of our most popular product - boiled doctor's sausage or, as this name should now be correctly used, Doctor's sausage - it would be equally fair to consider the date of approval of the Inter-Republican Standard (now it is GOST 23670-79), in which it is first mentioned, and date of commencement of its commercial production. For some reason, the last date is dearer to me - 1936, when the sausage first hit the buyer's table. He developed the recipe for sausage and the technology for its manufacture - the All-Russian Research Institute of the Meat Industry, which in the 30s was called a little differently, and for the first time carried out production - the Moscow Meat Processing Plant. A.I. Mikoyan. Parents are thus known; year of birth - too, and the name of the child got, frankly, dissident, with a hint ...

In this, apparently, distant relatives are to blame. The fact is that in the recipe of many sausages, especially of German origin, regardless of the manufacturing technology, be it smoked sausages or trivial sausages, there is a similar ratio of the main components - one part of beef meat is approximately 2.5–3 parts of pork. It is possible that it was these sausages with beer that our Emperor Peter III, the best friend of the Prussian king Frederick II, loved, a lover of simple soldier's food, which quickly restores strength to a tired warrior. In general, Pyotr Fedorovich and his friend Friedrich tasted and blessed, and the People's Commissariat of Health, with which it was supposed to coordinate any food industry products, recommended this sausage recipe as a dietary (therapeutic) food for patients with somatic signs of the consequences of prolonged starvation or, as then it was necessary to write in the documents - "... patients with undermined health as a result of the Civil War and tsarist despotism." Hence the name: medical - means ... doctoral, i.e. what the doctor ordered.

By the way, about her name: for buyers, so that there are no discrepancies, the following information may also be interesting.

In GOST 23670-79, the name is spelled out - “boiled doctor's sausage”. Until 1985, the validity period of approved GOSTs was limited to five years, but since 1985, all state standards of the former Soviet Union received the status “... without limitation of validity”. Therefore, in the main GOST document, the name of sausages in the 1979 edition will be preserved indefinitely. However, in 1997, GOST R 51074-97 was approved, according to which the adjective doktorskaya became the noun “Doctorskaya”, i.e. the defining part of the name of the goods became its trademark. Moreover, now everything that is produced (or will be produced) with deviations from the recipe specified in GOST 23670-79 has now lost the right to be called “Doctor’s”. If the package says “Doctor's”, and next to it - TU ..., then the matter is not clean, look for a catch. When GOST 23670-79 is indicated next to the name of the sausage, know that you will not be deceived.

The history of sausage is like a mirror...

Since 1936, until the end of the 50s, "Doctor" actually did not undergo changes in the main recipe. At the same time, produced by different plants, it differed both in appearance and in taste (as experts say - in organoleptic) characteristics. This was determined mainly by the quality of the meat used and the professional skills of manufacturing technologists, according to the dictionary of V. Dahl - sausage makers (not to be confused with the street nickname of the Germans! - Approx. Aut.). The Mikoyanovsky plant was better supplied, everything else there was also stricter, so the sausage was a little better. For some reason, all my peers now remember, first of all, the specific fragrant, appetizing smell of that sausage. What to say? "Doctor's" consists mainly of pork meat; there is no other animal that would absorb the smells of the conditions of its content to an equal extent, like a pig. For comparison, I recommend trying wild boar meat ...

Since the late 50s, experiments with fattening animals began. The sausage began to smell like fish, then chickens, and sometimes - a chemical plant that produces fertilizers.

The 70s, 80s - the time of all kinds of additives in food products. Legally, it turned out to be quite simple to issue an addition to GOST and produce a completely different product under the same name.

In the beginning was the era of soy supplements. But at one fine moment it turned out that soybean production could not provide all branches of the food industry with the necessary additives, and the sausage became disgusting. Carrageenans are on the move. For those who don't know what it is, let me tell you.

Carrageenan (Irish moss), the industrial name for two types of red algae harvested on the coast of the North Atlantic, the Kola Peninsula and the Far East. So-called carrageenans are made from carrageenan - thickeners, artificial additives, food imitators.

I will not scare readers with information about how many thousand tons of Irish moss in sausage we ate. Moreover, all this is in the victorious reports about thousands of tons of above-planned and planned production in the then newspapers.

By the way, imported sausages and all domestic sausages, which are produced according to specifications, can consist of 100% carrageenans, and this will not contradict our legislation. In addition, the process of making sausages is then greatly simplified: pour carrageenan powder with water, you can add meat broth for smell, mix, let it harden - and the sausage is waiting for its buyer.

Doctor's advice

There is a lot of contradictory writing about carrageenans and other dietary supplements. To resolve the issue unambiguously, I consulted a gastroenterologist. He categorically did not recommend eating boiled sausages.

I ask: - Why so?

Answers: - Firstly, there are always doubts about the quality and origin of the meat used in the production, then - bioadditives. Secondly, sausages are not recommended for peptic ulcer and gastritis in the acute phase, for pancreatitis, acute and chronic in the acute phase, for acute enterocolitis, as well as for patients with lipid metabolism disorders, including constitutional hyperlipidemia.

What do you object? With obesity (hyperlipidemia) and peptic ulcer, apparently, one should really refrain from "Doctor's". Only with pancreatitis (gallbladder disease) ... Almost 80% of the population, including me, after 50 years have changes in the gallbladder. Few of us eat fatty or trimmed bold pork according to GOST 23670-79 without the risk of earning heartburn and discomfort in the abdomen. However, from “Doctor’s”, if I don’t overeat it, I don’t remember such complications in myself. Apparently, the specific technology of meat processing in the production of sausage plays a definitely positive role in this case.

Thus, a qualified doctor, candidate of medical sciences, practicing in an ordinary city clinic, categorically objects to the use of bioadditives in food products. If I had turned to dietitians at the research institutes where all these innovative improvements in our products are given life, I would certainly hear a different opinion. Everything is simple: one - operates with data obtained from communication with ordinary people, others - with data from tests on laboratory mice or, at best, from tests on absolutely healthy people. Therefore, everyone is free to choose their own path. If a person feels healthy, like a laboratory mouse, why not try products with bioadditives...

"Astrological" forecast

As you can see, with the quality of the Doktorskaya sausage, things are going well today, and this, according to the regulatory documents in force in the Russian Federation, is forever. However, whether it will be possible to preserve it as a socially significant product with a specific purpose once recommended by the People's Commissariat of Health of the USSR, this raises serious doubts. It has become expensive for the main consumers: pensioners and buyers with medium and low incomes.

Selling prices of manufacturers today are approximately the same - on average, about 60 rubles / kg. The pension of our old people, taking into account former military personnel, is also on average - about 600 rubles per month. The ratio turns out to be a sad 1:10; once in my memory it was (excluding pensions of former military personnel) - 2.3:138 or 1:60. For comparison: in developed European countries, where the price of petroleum products is the same as in our country (or even slightly higher), the price of sausage with the quality indicators of our doctoral sausage is five times higher (300 rubles / kg or more), and the ratio the price of a sausage - the level of pension there is approximately from 1:120 to 1:200, depending on the specific country. The conclusion suggests itself: to treat social diseases through the efforts of some technologists of sausage production is a common, but hopeless thing. Therefore, in our country, social assistance to people will continue to be provided by pharmaceutical means.

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