How grandmothers baked rye bread according to old recipes. An old recipe for real homemade bread
For the preparation of the bread that distant ancestors ate five hundred years ago, sourdough is needed.
Sourdough is an amazing symbiotic product, invented in time immemorial, and consisting of:
water;
flour whole grain wheat or rye wallpaper;
wild yeast cultures;
strains of lactic acid bacteria.
In the right quality starter, the ratio of fungal colonies and bacterial strains is 1:1000. Thus, sourdough is lactic rather than yeast in nature.
But it is precisely this ratio of microorganisms that creates home-made bread that is unique in taste, smell and benefits.
The sourdough itself is made exclusively from water and flour. Nothing else needs to be added to the traditional recipe: no sugar, no salt, no other ingredients.
To prepare the starter mixture, you need to get a clean jar with or without a loose lid.
Clean water is poured into the jar, about two tablespoons. Then two tablespoons of rye wholemeal flour are put into the water. Flour with water is shaken and covered, leaving access for oxygen, then put in a warm place, but not in direct sunlight.
Usually a jar of young sourdough feels good in a kitchen cabinet or on a table.
After one day, a couple of tablespoons of water and a couple of tablespoons of flour are added to the mixture again, mixed and set aside for a day.
After one day, the operation with the addition of rye flour and tepid clean water is repeated for the third and final time.
After three days, the young sourdough should have a pleasant sour smell of fermented homemade kvass. It is ready for the first use.
Sourdough Features
It should be borne in mind that the very first time when baking homemade bread, it will be done with a young, unripened sourdough. Obtaining a mature and high-quality sourdough is not a quick process, because in order for the sourdough to acquire its characteristic qualities and become stable, it is necessary to establish the necessary balance between its acid-yeast microflora.
Such bread will be quite edible, but not so loose, fragrant and tasty. Its taste will be almost like from ordinary industrial yeast, only more sour.
First baking
The very first starter is divided in half, about a glass in volume, and poured into another container. A couple of tablespoons of flour and pure water are added to the jar with the remains of the first sourdough, mixed and placed on the lower, coldest shelf of the refrigerator. This procedure will need to be repeated every time the next kneading of bread.
One glass of clean, warm water is poured into a bowl with selected sourdough, and the same amount of flour is added through a sieve.
Everything is mixed, and left warm for 8-9 hours.
During this time, the leaven will foam and rise. This is a sure sign of her readiness.
Dough kneading for homemade bread
Ready played sourdough is mixed with 500 ml of warm, but not hot water, in which a spoonful of salt and about one kg of any flour are dissolved.
Everything is thoroughly kneaded until a homogeneous smooth dough is obtained.
The dough is set aside in a warm place to rise, covering it with a film (not airtight). The risen dough is placed in a greased form and allowed to rise a second time.
bread baking
Approached bread is placed in an oven heated to 180 degrees, in which it is necessary to place a baking sheet filled with boiling water.
After 20 minutes from the start of baking, the baking sheet is removed. Then the bread is baked for another 30 minutes.
The appearance of a golden crust on a loaf indicates its readiness. The bread is turned over onto a wooden board and covered with a towel to cool completely. Real homemade bread is ready!
(function(w,d,n,s,t)(w[n]=w[n]||;w[n].push(function()(Ya.Context.AdvManager.render((blockId:"R-A -293904-1",renderTo:"yandex_rtb_R-A-293904-1",async:true));));t=d.getElementsByTagName("script");s=d.createElement("script");s .type="text/javascript";s.src="http://an.yandex.ru/system/context.js";s.async=true;t.parentNode.insertBefore(s,t);)) (this,this.document,"yandexContextAsyncCallbacks");
Historically, sour yeast bread, ripening for a couple of days, was the "calling card" of Russian cuisine until the end of the 18th century. However, let's not be mistaken. The bread of that time would hardly have been to the taste of a modern person. The opinion of Paul of Aleppo is known, who in the book “The Journey of Patriarch Macarius of Antioch (this is the middle of the 17th century) wrote: “We saw how carters and other common people breakfasted on it (bread), as if it were the most excellent halva. We are completely unable to eat it, because it is sour, like vinegar, and it has the same smell. In the XVI-XVII centuries. rye bread in Russia was eaten not only by the poor, but also by rich people. It subsequently became shameful to have sour rye bread on the noble table. But until the time of Peter the Great, the attitude towards this was quite calm.
Where was bread baked in the old days? Was there a difference between the city and the countryside?
Subsistence farming in Ancient Russia left few options for this. So, from "Domostroy" we learn that bread in Russia was baked in a special room - "bread", separated from the "kitchen", where they cooked food. It also tells about the various properties of bread, for example: “Rye bread is warmer than barley, and healthy people need to eat it, it will give them strength; sick people should eat wheat bread, it is better and more nutritious.
The first foreign bakers appeared in Russia at the beginning of the 18th century; already in the era of Peter I. These establishments specialized mainly in the production of a large number of small-weight bakery products. In the villages, bread was usually baked once a week. City life made it possible to buy fresh bread every day and different varieties.
In Soviet times, bread was very cheap. Why?
It is not by chance that we remember Soviet bread as simple and natural. After all, real bread consists of only four ingredients - flour, water, salt, yeast (sourdough). So think about how expensive it would be even today. Another thing is that its quality then was different. “What can be baked from this flour sold in our city,” his student once asked the founder of Soviet bread baking, Lev Auerman, in the 1960s. “Yes, nothing is impossible,” the scientist replied. And at the same time, even in such difficult conditions, the Soviet baking industry provided a certain quality. There was a GOST for most varieties of bread, which was strictly observed until the mid-80s. However, we all understand that the quality of bread also depends on hands and equipment. So it was different on the ground. Unfortunately, now there is no unified state control over the bread recipe at all.
Were there bread recipes in pre-revolutionary cookbooks? Have they (recipes) survived?
Russian bread is not only loaves and “bricks” familiar to us. This is also a lot of typical bread products - kalachi, saek, bagels, papushniks. Their recipes are an integral part of our pre-revolutionary culinary literature. For example, the section on bread is very informative in Vasily Levshin's Dictionary of Cookery (1795). It is he who says that foreign saiks are no different from the old Russian papushnik. We read about the rush from Ekaterina Avdeeva. And the Russian confectioner Nikolai Maslov devotes many pages to all sorts of sweet bread goodies.
0 In pursuit:
Spelled (spelt) is one of the varieties of wheat, valued for its special nutty flavor. Spelled grown in the USA is sold under the trade name "kamut", which introduces some terminological confusion. In fact, spelled, spelled and kamut are different names for the same wheat variety, which has not been crossed with other varieties and retained its unique properties.
It is mainly used as a cereal, but spelled can also be ground into flour. Spelled contains almost all the nutrients that a person needs in a harmonious and balanced combination - and not only in the shell of the grain, but evenly throughout the grain. This means that it retains its nutritional value even when ground very finely.
Spelled flour products have a pleasant smell and good texture. Spelled porridge has a pleasant nutty flavor and is incredibly healthy for children, because the gluten protein, which this cereal is especially rich in, contains 18 essential amino acids for the body that cannot be obtained from animal food.
Spelled wheat (spelt) is an ancient wheat variety, wild wheat with a low gluten content.
Age 6000-8000 years. A rare grain crop that has not yet been genetically modified. It does not tolerate fertilizers, is not irradiated with radiation. The surface layer of useful substances is so large that after grinding the grain is preserved in a significant amount. Unlike cultivated wheat, it has huge beneficial properties.
Spelled, also called spelt.
I will add to what was written in previous messages that this type of wheat can be eaten by people who cannot tolerate ordinary wheat. Spelled has a high gluten content, but is suitable even for those who suffer from gluten intolerance (only for such people it should be introduced into the diet gradually). My husband is intolerant of wheat, but spelled is always available without any problems.
The taste of her, in my opinion, is very different from ordinary wheat, but I like it.
It is also much heavier than plain wheat, so it is much more difficult to bake anything from it, but the "finished product" is worth all the effort.
Spelled is very easily and quickly absorbed by the body (hence the rapid saturation after "eating it") and, unlike simple wheat, when digested, its body does not add "additional" mucus, so people who often "suffer" from colds, coughs, runny nose, etc. .P. (usual wheat is not recommended for such people, because in their body there is already an increased content of mucus (and pus) and eating wheat (and dairy products) only exacerbates this problem
)
Use wooden, ceramic, glassware and spoons, spatulas for stirring. There should not be any aluminum in the dishes at all!!!
As a non-stick when baking and when frying (stewing), we use parchment (sub-parchment) paper, melted !! oil, ceramic molds, cast iron (not very suitable) Leaves of horseradish, sycamore, cabbage, grapes .. That's it!
starter cultures
- various, on pickled bases. Rossols - any, Cucumber, rare cabbage, from soaked apples ......,
- sour-milk - on sour cream (rustic), yogurt (we take only where bacteria and milk, nothing extraneous), and so on ...
- on sprouted grains ....
How to do
- one of the old recipes was (briefly the essence). Take flour, go to the forest, to the meadow, etc. to your favorite place. With gratitude to the Creator, nature and local spirits, ask for help in a good deed :). We kneaded the sour cream until thick, covered it, left it overnight. in warmth.
Or we prepare the sourdough at home. Usually on the 3rd day it starts to smell like sour. The smell is good, not sour. after a short time. You can prepare several starters at once and then store in the refrigerator, alternate. I personally store a month without updating and nothing, only the smell becomes sharp, concentrated. The shelf life of the starter depends on the composition.
I don’t use sugar to prepare and update the sourdough. Some truths, without it, may not initially sour.
You can start in a week
So, after all sorts of "torment" with different grains, I came to the following:
I use whole grain spelled flour for everyday bread (wheat has stopped and I almost never use it) and rye.
BREAD
after many recipes, I came to the classics, about which I later found only a couple of references, and those in the village.
I'm tired of these books with notes, and I'm tired of remembering and keeping in my head, so the formula is simple
1-1-1
Instead of a unit, any number :) and the number is the number of measures. Any measure
I have this mug.
In the evening I take (for two small breads):
-2 mugs of water (milk or mixture with water, but I usually take fresher spring water)
-2 mugs of rye flour
add the sourdough and mix (we don’t forget about the dishes and spatulas). This is KNESS!!! having mixed immediately without adding anything, I put a couple of spoons into the sourdough bowl for the next time (glass jar). If guests or you need a lot of bread, set aside more. there is not much do not be afraid to shift.
I cover it with a wet towel or plate and leave it to ferment overnight.
In the morning:
I add
2 Mugs of spelled or wheat
Having moistened my hands with oil or water, I interfere with the DOUGH. It turns out to be heavy and sticky (not "quick" bread, but "slow")
I immediately divide it into 2 parts and lay it out in a form lined with parchment paper, or cabbage leaves, etc. I close it with a high bowl (you need a place to rise) and leave it for about 4 hours. minutes. Control after an hour by the color of the crust. From brown to darkish.
I bake pure rye according to the same recipe, only it is sourer in taste.
Salt, nuts, seeds, chopped fruits, raisins, poppy seeds, etc. are added to the DOUGH as you like or whatever you eat. If you add 1 teaspoon of unrefined sunflower oil from the market, it smells strong and delicious.
AFTER you finish the bread, put it on a towel and cover it with another clean one until it cools !!!
It is not recommended to eat bread until it is warm, as all processes have not been completed there yet.
Bread does not get stale for a long time (covered). It does not get moldy. Crackers are also delicious. Children love it with milk just like that and sometimes they don’t want to eat anything else. They ran from the street, half bread with milk and again for half a day.
I remember how the bread turned out for the first time, so the son could not get enough for a week. And now the other one hardly eats. Skin problems have disappeared, and so on. This is not about that.
Bon Appetit everyone!!! Text hidden
For millennia, the grinding of grain was carried out between stone graters - millstones. With this method of grinding, there was no loss of high-quality substances - all valuable vitamins, aromatic substances and enzymes were preserved.
In the middle of the 19th century (1862), grinding between metal (rotating at different speeds) rollers was invented, and the whole complex process of grinding wheat grain in a modern high-quality mill is aimed at separating the endosperm as best as possible (from which flour is now obtained ) from the germ, shield, aleurone (enzymatic) layer, shells (bran). That is, the most valuable and extremely important components of grain in human nutrition are seized and sent to waste for animal feed.
Later, the plow appeared, although it did not completely replace the plow. What to plow, the peasant decided. It depended on the soil. The plow was more often used on heavy fertile soils. Unlike the plow, the plow not only undercut the layer of earth, but also turned it over. After the field is plowed, it is necessary to "comb" it. They did it with a harrow. Sometimes a spruce log with a large number of long knots was used as a harrow.
In those days there were no weather forecasts, so the peasants relied on themselves and folk signs. We observed natural phenomena in order to start sowing in time. Sowing Day is one of the most responsible, but also the most solemn days in the agricultural year. That is why the first sower went out barefoot (his feet should already have been warm) in the field in a white or red (holiday) shirt, a basket with seeds hung on his chest. He scattered the seeds evenly, with a "secret inaudible prayer." After sowing, the grain had to be harrowed. Peasants planted grain crops not only in spring, but also in autumn. Before the onset of severe cold, winter grains were sown. These plants managed to sprout before winter and appear on the surface.
The day the harvest began was called Zazhinki. Everyone took up the harvest together, the whole family went out into the field. And if they understood that they could not cope with the harvest themselves, then they called for help. The work was very difficult. I had to get up before dawn and go to the field. The most important thing was to harvest on time. Everyone forgot about their illnesses and sorrows. What you collect is what you live for the whole year. Harvesting is work, though hard, but bringing joy. If the rye grew tall and thick, they preferred to use a sickle, and a low and rare cornfield was mowed with a scythe. Mowed plants were tied into sheaves.
Usually the harvest was completed by the day of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary - August 28 (August 15, old style). The popular name for this holiday is Spozhinki.
Sheaves were first taken to the barn or barn. Barn - an outbuilding in which sheaves were dried before threshing. The barn usually consisted of a pit where a furnace without a chimney was located, as well as an upper tier where sheaves were put. Riga - a building with an oven for drying sheaves of bread and flax. Riga was bigger than a barn. Up to 5 thousand sheaves were dried in it, while in a barn - no more than 500.
Ripe grain was taken immediately to the threshing floor - a fenced plot of land intended for storage, threshing and other processing of grain - and threshed there. It was one of the most difficult stages of work. Wealthy people tried to invite someone to help do the job. And the work consisted of this: they took a threshing (threshing) or a flail and hit the sheaves in order to “release” the grain. To obtain the best seeds and unbroken straw, a sheaf about a barrel was used. Later, these methods began to be replaced by threshing with the help of threshing machines, which worked on horse or steam traction. A special trade was created for threshers who worked on their machines for hire. The threshing of bread did not always take place immediately, sometimes this process was delayed, threshed both in autumn and at the beginning of winter. After threshing, the grain was winnowed - usually standing in the wind with a shovel.
A significant step forward was the invention of the manual grinding mill. Its basis is millstones - two heavy slabs, between which grain was ground. The lower millstone was installed motionless. The grain was poured through a special hole in the upper millstone, which was set in motion by the muscular strength of a person or animals. Large, heavy millstones were turned by horses or bulls.
Grinding grain became easier, but the work was still hard. The situation changed only after the water mill was constructed. In flat areas, the speed of the rivers is small in order to turn the wheel with the power of the water jet. To create the necessary pressure, the rivers were dammed, the water level artificially raised, and the jet was directed along the chute onto the wheel blades. Over time, the device of the mill was improved, windmills appeared, their blades were rotated by the wind. Windmills were built in areas where there were no bodies of water nearby. In some areas, millstones were set in motion by animals - horses, bulls, donkeys.
Dough recipes were different, but flour and water remained the main components. If there was not enough flour, then they bought it at the market. To check the quality, the flour was tasted “by the tooth”. They took a pinch of flour and chewed it, if the resulting “dough” stretched well and was not very sticky to the hands, then the flour was good.
Before kneading the dough, the flour was sifted through a sieve. Flour in the process of sifting had to "breathe".
In Russia, black "sour" bread was baked. It was called black because rye flour was used for its preparation, and it has a darker color than wheat flour. "Sour" - because sour leaven was used. Having kneaded the dough in a kneader - a wooden tub - and formed rounded loaves, the hostess collected the rest of the dough from the walls into a ball, sprinkled with flour and left it for sourdough until the next time.
The finished dough was sent to the oven. Furnaces in Russia were special. They heated the room, baked bread on them, cooked food, slept, sometimes even washed and treated themselves.
They put bread in the oven with a prayer. In no case, while the bread was in the oven, it was impossible to swear or quarrel with anyone. Bread won't work.
Shells (bran), and this is fiber, remove organic dirt - excess enzymes of gastric juice, bile acids, bilirubin, cholesterol. Bran helps to normalize the intestinal flora - adsorb pathogenic microorganisms, leaving E. coli alone, normalize intestinal motility. In addition, bran is polysaccharides, the best food for our bifidobacteria: there are about 10 million bifidobacteria in 1 cm3 of gastric juice. Therefore, it is quite natural that when we unconsciously deprive bifidobacteria that produce, for example, vitamin B12, food, the mechanism of diabetes is triggered.
When grinding between stone millstones, high-quality substances are not carried away - all valuable vitamins, aromatic substances and enzymes are preserved. The manual mill makes it possible to grind soft and hard varieties of wheat, rye, barley, oats, soybeans, amaranth, etc. Barley is generally an amazing crop and, probably not by chance, barley is called the “arrow of light”. In ancient times, gladiators and slaves were fed with barley, that is, those who required, first of all, strength and endurance. Rye is a natural medicine. In the old days in Russia it was believed that eating rye increases vitality and uplifts the mood. Rye has a tonic effect and normalizes metabolism. And the best of bread kvass is rye kvass. It is the most nutritious and biologically valuable drink in existence today. It is no coincidence that this tasty and healthy drink was admired by foreigners traveling around Russia.
Wheat flour (grain) obtained by this method of grinding has such baking properties that cannot be obtained otherwise.
In other words, a hand mill, having a service life of tens of years, will serve you, protecting the health of the family, for several generations.
Firstly, and this is very important, after grinding, the flour remains “alive” only for a few days.
Secondly, the whole complex process of grinding wheat grains in a modern high-quality mill is aimed at separating the endosperm (from which flour is now obtained) from the germ, shield, aleurone (enzyme) layer, shells (bran) as best as possible.
That is, the most valuable components of the grain, which play an extremely important role in human nutrition, were seized and sent to waste for animal feed, including vitamins.
The role and importance of vitamins in nutrition is well known. Their absence or lack of food causes severe diseases. When, for example, supposedly indigestible components began to be removed from grain and rice and they began to be proud of snow-white flour and rice, this did not cause problems for a long time. Then there were specific disorders, such as paralysis and other neurological disorders, which were called "beriberi". Later it became clear that people were missing something. And what was missing was just in the rice husks, which were thrown away or fed to animals. Then they began to look for the missing link and found it. Chemically, it turned out to be an amine, which, obviously, was the carrier of life (vita (lat.) - life). This is how the name "vitamin" was born.
This vitamin B, like other vitamins, is almost completely and in our time, on the most modern equipment, is also carefully separated and disposed of as waste.
The distribution of vitamin B in percent for individual parts of wheat grain is as follows (According to D. Hitcock, D. Hitcock and B. Shaw):
32% - in the aleurone (enzyme) layer;
62% - in the shield, the rest of the amount of vitamin B (6%) is approximately evenly distributed between the entosperm, embryo, pericarp.
A similar picture is observed for other vitamins. It turns out that in 150 years a person has not wised up at all!
This was known back in biblical times, considering whole-ground flour as a pantry of health, one of the main conditions for longevity.
Bread according to the recipe of the Book of the prophet Ezekiel "Take yourself wheat and barley, and beans, and lentils, and millet, pour them into one vessel and make bread for yourself ...".
Oddly enough, but modern flour, in which there is nothing, is more expensive than fresh (and, therefore, live) whole-ground.
However, the madness doesn't end there. Flour, whose natural color is cream, due to the presence of carotenoids (provitamins of group A), is bleached using a chemical that is standard for the flour milling industry - chlorine gas. The US Environmental Protection Agency classifies this gas as a pesticide and defines it as a flour bleaching, aging and oxidizing (remember this) agent, which is a powerful deadly irritant that is dangerous to inhale. Several years ago, on one of the central channels of the central heating, data were announced that the rejection of water chlorination and the transition to other, safer methods of its disinfection leads to an increase in the average life expectancy throughout Russia, according to official data - by 8 years, according to unofficial - by 15! Chlorine, when in contact with wheat (a duplicate contact of chlorine with flour occurs at the time of kneading dough with chlorinated tap water in all bakeries), forms another substance called alloxan, which is known for its ability to disrupt the activity of the pancreas.
Alloxan destroys the pancreas so well that scientists even use it in clinical studies to induce diabetes in laboratory animals!
So where did the whole grain flour, from which our ancestors baked bread, disappear? Only whole grain flour, as we already know, contains B vitamins, macro- and microelements, and the germ, which has fantastic healing properties. Refined flour is devoid of both the germ and the shell - instead of these naturally created healing parts of the grain, all kinds of food additives are added to the flour, chemically created substitutes that can never make up for what is created by nature itself. Refined flour becomes a mucus-forming product, which lies in a lump on the bottom of the stomach and slagging our body. Refining is an expensive, costly process, and at the same time it kills the living power of grain. And it is needed only in order to keep the flour from spoilage for as long as possible. Whole flour cannot be stored for a long time (in summer), but this is not required. Let the grain be stored, and from it, as needed, you can make flour. It has always been so. Grain is alive. When it is ground, the aging process immediately begins. We can say that white flour is better stored because it is dead. Experiments with feeding rats have shown that as early as 14 days after grinding, the amount of life in flour is reduced so much that when fed with flour and bread from such flour, animals in the fourth generation, as a rule, lose their viability. And isn’t it time, in the name of the convenience of trade, to stop the vicious practice of turning God’s given healing food product into a dead, mucus-forming mass that has an attractive taste due to sugar, salt, fat, heat-treated at high temperatures and become carcinogenic.
Back in the 19th century, in the Handbook for the Sick and Healthy of Dr. Platen, published in 1895, it says: “If a person eats refined white bread (and then yeast was not yet used, the replacement of starter cultures for yeast occurred about 50 years ago), he will surely lead to mental and physical destruction.”
Remember our Russian culture regarding food, bread in particular. When did our wise grandmothers bake white bread (even with sourdough)? Only on major holidays, sometimes on Sundays, and never during the week.
On fasting days, they ate kulaga, high in biological value, which was prepared from malt, and he - from sprouted grain. Kulaga is a great medicine. What is sprouted grain? This amount of vitamin B1 increases 1.5 times, B2 - 13.5 times, B6 - 5 times, E - 10 times!
On fast days they baked bread made from a mixture of rye and wheat flour (Karelian pies - kalitki), from a mixture of wheat and buckwheat - real Russian pancakes (Guriev's), from barley-wheat (Latvian bread), from oatmeal they prepared pancakes and sieve for Belarusian and Polish soups, and mixed with wheat - cookies.
Unfortunately, over the past 100 years, something has been happening to us, and this is a very disturbing fact for all of us!
People have forgotten the taste and aroma of real bread.
And even more so, they don’t remember that bread in the old days was always baked on sourdough. All components of the sourdough are exclusively of plant origin and cause the fermentation process. The famous peasant sourdough (sourdough is a liquid dough fermented with hops, raisins, with the addition of natural sugar or honey, white and red malt) was prepared from rye flour, barley, and wheat. It was these starter cultures that enriched the body with vitamins, enzymes, biostimulants and, above all, saturated it with oxygen. Thanks to this, the human body became energetic, efficient, resistant to colds and other diseases.
Since the mid-1940s, after the war, hop starter cultures have been replaced with yeast. Scientists have found that the main property of yeast is fermentation. Yeast transfers this property through bread (in 1 cc of mature dough there are 120 million yeast cells) into the blood, and the blood also begins to ferment. The resulting fusel gas, which is akin to cadaveric poison, enters, first of all, into the brain, disrupting its functions. Memory, ability to logical thinking, creative work sharply worsens. Acting at the cellular level, yeast causes the formation of benign and cancerous tumors in the body. There is an effect on the cell, depriving it of the ability to divide, i.e. produce healthy cells.
One of the wonders of our body is the process of regeneration. For example, if 70% of the liver is removed, then after 3-4 weeks it can fully recover. The pancreas also has the maximum ability to regenerate.
The main condition for the course of regeneration is the absence of fermentation processes in the body. And fermentation in the body is caused mainly by yeast. Ordinary yeast fungus does not survive in the human body due to high body temperature. But thanks to the "efforts" of geneticists, a special type of heat-resistant yeast was bred, which reproduces perfectly at a temperature of 43-44 degrees and is able to withstand a 500-degree temperature in an oven.
These yeasts are able not only to resist the onslaught of phagocytes responsible for immunity, but also to kill them. Yeast cells destroy the least protected cells of our body and secrete poisonous substances of small molecular weight. Saccharomycetes, unlike tissue cells, are very resistant, they are not destroyed either during cooking or under the influence of enzymes and acids in the gastrointestinal tract. These yeasts from the digestive tract enter the bloodstream, multiplying exponentially. This disrupts the normal activity of all digestive organs: stomach, pancreas, gallbladder, liver. In the intestines, the processes of putrefaction are growing.
Scientists around the world have long sounded the alarm. The mechanisms of the negative effects of yeast on the human body are disclosed. French professor Etienne Wolf, academician F.G. Uglov, P.P. Dubinin (Proceedings of the Plekhanov Institute of Chemistry), Rosini Gianfranco (“The presence of a killing feature of yeast”, Canadian Journal of Microbiology, 1983, v.29, number 10, p. 1462), S.A. Konovalov (“Biochemistry of yeast”, 1962, M., Pishchepromizdat, pp. 13-14), correspondent of Izvestia L. Volodin, (Paris, February 27 by phone, published on February 28, p. 4), B. A. Rubin (Ferment. - BME, t 3, 1976, pp. 383-384), V.M. Dilman (“Four Models of Medicine”, L., Medicine, 1987. pp. 40-42, 214-215), Marilyn Diamond, Donald Shell, (USA "Acid-base balance"), V. Mikhailov, L. Trushkina ("Food is a serious matter." M., "Young Guard", 1988, pp. 5-7). The bibliography on this topic can be continued, but we better look at what thermophilic yeast is and food products prepared with their use.
So, we repeat: saccharomyces yeast (thermophilic yeast), used in the alcohol industry, brewing and baking, does not occur in the wild in nature, that is, it is a creation of human hands, and not a creation of God. According to morphological features, they belong to the simplest marsupial fungi and microorganisms. These Saccharomycetes, unfortunately, are more perfect than tissue cells, independent of temperature, pH of the medium, air content. Even with the cell membrane destroyed by saliva lysozyme, they continue to live. Worthy of attention is the experience of the French scientist Etienne Wolf, who cultivated a malignant tumor for 37 months in a test tube with a solution containing fermenting yeast extract. At the same time, an intestinal tumor was cultivated for 16 months under the same conditions, out of touch with living tissue. As a result of the experiment, it turned out that in such a solution the size of the tumor tripled within one week. But as soon as the extract was removed from the solution, the tumor died. From this it was concluded that the yeast extract contains a substance that stimulates the growth of cancerous tumors (Izvestia newspaper).
Scientists in Canada and England have established the killing ability of yeast. Killer cells, yeast killer cells kill sensitive, less protected body cells by releasing poisonous small molecular weight proteins in them. The toxic protein acts on plasma membranes, increasing their permeability to pathogenic microorganisms and viruses. Yeast first enters the cells of the digestive tract, and then into the bloodstream. Thus, they become a "Trojan horse", with the help of which the enemy enters our body and contributes to the undermining of his health.
Thermophilic yeast is so tenacious that with three or four uses, their activity only increases. It is known that when baking bread, yeast is not destroyed, but stored in gluten capsules. Once in the body, they begin their destructive activity. Now specialists are already well aware that when yeast reproduces, ascospores are formed, which, when they find themselves in our digestive tract and then enter the bloodstream, destroy cell membranes, contributing to oncological diseases.
It is no coincidence that at the Second World Congress of Herbal Medicine in Prague in 1990, Professor Larbert spoke with dismay about the detrimental health effects of refined white bread made with yeast. Prolonged eating of such bread (and we eat it for years) led to a number of disorders described by Larbert called hemogliosis. This disease is manifested by headaches, drowsiness, irritability, digestive problems, thinking slows down, sexual activity decreases, blood viscosity increases. Larbert believes that hemogliosis is more common and more dangerous than tuberculosis.
Baking bread in folk cuisine has always been a kind of ritual. The secret of its preparation has been passed down from generation to generation. Almost every family had their own secret. Bread was prepared about once a week on various sourdough starters. The use of unrefined rye flour led to the fact that, although the bread was coarse, it contained all the useful substances found in cereals. And when baking in a Russian oven, bread acquired an unforgettable taste and aroma. We can safely say that there has never been such bread as in Russia in the world. It was consumed in large quantities. The average peasant, for example, in the 19th century ate more than three pounds of bread a day (a pound equals 430 grams). It was this bread that made it possible to regulate the work of the intestines.
The main thing food for all time
There is a word in Russian that is difficult to find analogues in the languages of peoples. The word is hospitality. It is usually pronounced when they want to emphasize hospitality, cordiality with a treat. Hospitality has always been inherent in the Russian people, many rituals and beliefs, proverbs, sayings, legends and fairy tales are associated with it. Russian people believed that a guest treated kindly in the house would not harm the hosts.
In the old days, they said about a hospitable owner: “A house is like a full bowl, bread The salt doesn't come off the table. As a token of gratitude for the hearty treat, the following words were often uttered: "They are satisfied with bread and salt - their eyes do not look."
Bread and salt accompanied all the joyful and sorrowful events that took place in the life of the Russian people. The most eminent and young were greeted with bread and salt on their wedding day, they treated the woman in labor with bread, they were the first to stock up on them when they went on a long journey. By the ability to bake bread, they determined the homeliness of the hostess ... Our ancestors believed in the sanctity of bread. For example, they believed that a person who dropped a piece of bread should, after picking it up, be sure to kiss it. According to another belief, all the pieces and crumbs of bread that a person throws away are picked up by the devil. If after the death of a person the bread thrown by him weighs more than himself, then the devil will take his soul. But you never know the rites and customs associated with bread, you can’t count them all.
And this is not accidental - none of the other types of food among the Russian people can be compared with bread.
Bread is a special product. Engels called the cultivation of cereals the lowest stage in the development of mankind from savagery and barbarism to stone civilization. Indeed, the ancient agricultural peoples who knew how to grow grain, in terms of their cultural and physical level, significantly exceeded the peoples who lived mainly through hunting, cattle breeding and fishing.
It is believed that for the first time people learned the taste of cereals back in the days of the “scientific age, about 15 thousand years ago. How reliable these data are, we do not undertake to argue, perhaps bread was known to man much earlier.
At first, primitive people simply collected wild cereals and ate them raw. Many centuries passed before they learned to grind these grains and knead them with water. Thus, bread was born into the world in the form of a liquid floury-grained porridge, a bread stew, which is still eaten today by the inhabitants of the East and African countries.
the main meal of all time
Then people probably noticed that the grains separated from the ears more easily if they were “placed in a pit with very hot stones (the forerunner of modern mi). In addition, roasted grains turned out to be much tastier than raw ones. One way or so, gradually, by touch, a person learned the amazing dishes of bread.
Thousands of years passed before people learned to cultivate cereals. and wheat appeared much earlier than rye. Approximately 8 thousand years ago, the Babylonians, Egyptians, Assyrians began to cultivate wheat, barley and millet. Jews and other peoples.
As we have already noted, bread in the form of a soup or porridge made from crushed or coarsely ground grains is considered the oldest. Over time, the stew - caught more and more thickly, until it turned into dough.
The next step on the way to a modern bun is unleavened cakes. They were known to the ancient Egyptians, Jews, Persians. They baked such cakes from unsifted wholemeal flour, sometimes adding river sand to it. Why was it done? hard to say.
Flatbread certainly had undeniable advantages over bread stew. The broth quickly turned sour and dried up, which made it impossible to persecute it, while a person needed a supply of food. The cakes were well preserved for a long time, they were taken with them on the road. Before eating, the cake was soaked in water.
The cake existed for a long time. Until the beginning of the Middle Ages, many peoples actively used it in their diet, and even today, unleavened bread is not uncommon in many national cuisines.
A huge step forward was the invention of a method for fermenting (leaving) dough. The ancient Egyptians made this discovery 5-6 thousand years ago. Then the Greeks learned about it, from the Greeks - the Romans, and from them it came to the rest of the hellish families of Europe.
In ancient Greece, leavened bread was considered a great delicacy. Aristocrats ate it as an independent dish. The more noble the owner and the richer his house, the more generously he treated his guests with wheat bread. Already in those distant times, there were many varieties of bread - from the simplest of coarse grinding with a large amount of bran to exquisite rich breads. Bread fried on a spit was also popular among gourmets.
Around the second half of the 11th century BC, special bakeries arose. So the craft of the baker has been around for several millennia.
... Since ancient times, bread served as the basis of nutrition for the East Slavic peoples. The "father of history" Herodotus claimed that even 500-400 years before our era, the tribes living in the steppes of the Black Sea and the Sea of \u200b\u200bAzov grew excellent wheat. Even earlier evidence of this are the finds made during excavations of settlements of the so-called Trypillia culture on the territory of modern Ukraine. The remains of adobe houses with ovens for baking bread, clay vessels for storing grain, a grain grater - all of them are silent witnesses to the fact that already in the 3rd millennium BC, the inhabitants of this region were not experts in the field of baking.
Bread has always been considered the wealth of Russia. The Slavic land “will give birth to rye and wheat in great abundance,” wrote Olearius, “you rarely hear that? bread was expensive. In some parts of the country where there is no grain, the land is not cultivated at all, even if it is convenient for the fact that they do not make a supply of grain, content with that. what is needed for the year: for each that every year will gather its rich harvest. From this, the abyss of the beautiful fertile land remains without cultivation ... ".
The role of bread in the life of Russian people was so great that in those years famine began in the country, despite the abundance of animal food, forests were distinguished by an abundance of animals and birds, and rivers - fish and waterfowl. However, as many sources testify, for Russians meat did not replace bread, they almost did not appreciate animal food.
In ancient times, bread in Russia was called not only baked bread, but also grain. The Slavs ate cereal grains either in the form of soaked and toasted grains, or in the form of flour, from which porridge was boiled in water or milk, or in the form of bread itself, which was baked on red-hot and later in an oven.
The main grain crops in Russia have long been considered rye, barley, millet, and oats.
Russians learned rye much later than wheat. It is believed that her homeland is Transcaucasia (the state of Urartu). It penetrated the Slavs, one might say, “illegally” - “settled” in the crops of cultivated wheat, like any weed, did not enjoy the mercy of the farmers.
So it was until then. until the peasant noticed the amazing ability of rye to withstand cold and bad weather. In other years, when crops died, rye saved people from starvation. In the end, it stood out as an independent culture, and by the 11th-12th centuries, rye bread was mainly eaten in Russia.
This, in particular, is evidenced by the precious in the historical and everyday literary monument of the 11th century “The Life of Archpriest Theodosius, the chronicler calls “pure bread”, which was used by the monks with honey as a delicacy. Daily bread was baked from rye.
From oats, barley, millet, various porridges were mainly cooked. In addition, obtained from these cereals, they were often used for baking bread, 1 pancakes and other flour products.
Already the first written sources testify that the art of baking bread in Ancient Russia was very high. For example, in the “Life of Archpriest Theodosius” mentioned above, it is told how blessed Theodosius skillfully baked prosphora. He often went to the bakery - he was happy to help the bakers knead the dough and bake bread.
For grinding grain, they used set-ups - hand mills - millstones. At the same time, if they wanted to get “green bread”, the grain was ground more thoroughly. The threshed grain was stored in bags or in bulk, as well as in a pit specially dug for this purpose. Some townspeople, especially those related to the grain trade, stored grain in the basement of the house, using barrels and kegs for this purpose.
In Russia, sour bread made from leavened dough was especially loved. Fermentation methods were very different. Usually, leavened thick, yeast or a piece of old dough was used as a starter.
Street scene. First half of the 19th century
What the bread of our ancestors tasted like can be judged from the memoirs of Archdeacon Pavel Alensky, who in the book “The Journey of Patriarch Macarius of Antioch…” wrote: “We saw how carters and other common people breakfasted on it (bread), as if it were the most excellent halva. We are completely unable to eat it, because ... it is sour, like vinegar, and it has the same smell.
True, it is hardly worth fully trusting those descriptions of Russian life that foreign travelers left. On this occasion, the historian V. O. Klyuchevsky noted: “A foreigner who was unfamiliar or little acquainted with the history of the people, alien to them in terms of concepts and habits, could not give a correct explanation of many phenomena of Russian life, often could not even impartially evaluate them.”
But nevertheless, apparently, the bread of those times really had a sour taste.
The procedure for baking bread was difficult and rather complex, so they baked it once or twice a week. It looked like this.
In the evening, before sunset, the hostess, as a rule, the most experienced woman in the house, began to cook sourdough. The sourdough was constantly in operation and was rarely washed. By the way, there were many jokes about this among the people. According to one of them, the woman lost the frying pan on which she baked pancakes. For a whole year she was looking for the loss and found it only after she washed the sourdough ...
The kvass was rubbed with salt mixed with sourdough, poured with warm water and a piece of dough left over from the previous baking was thrown into it. Having stirred the leaven with a wooden spatula - a whorl, they added warm water and poured flour sifted through a sieve or sieve from a special plank or dugout trough. Then the dough was stirred to the consistency of thick sour cream, the kvass was placed in a thawed place and covered with a clean cloth on top.
By the morning of the next day, the dough was rising, and they began to knead it - this is a rather laborious job that requires skill. The dough was kneaded until it began to lag behind the walls of the kneading bowl and from the hands. Then it was again put in a warm place and after it had risen again, it was again kneaded and cut into round smooth loaves. They were allowed to separate and only after that they were “planted” in the oven. Previously, it was well heated, and the ashes and coals were swept with a broom. The floor where the bread was baked was covered with cabbage or oak leaves. They baked bread without leaves, in this case, the shovel, on which the rolls were “planted” in the oven, was sprinkled with flour.
Baker and seller of kvass
The uniform heat in the Russian oven contributed to the good baking of the bread. In order to determine whether it was ready, the bun was taken out of the oven and, taking the left hand, tapped from below. Well-baked bread was supposed to ring like a tambourine.
The woman who baked bread enjoyed special respect in the family. The hostess, who knew the art of baking better than others, was considered the most homely and proud of it.
The monastery bakers were especially distinguished. So, in the Pechersk Monastery there was a special group of chernets, led by a "senior baker", who baked bread. It is interesting that the room where the monks ate (the refectory) was called the “bread cell” in Ancient Russia.
The work of a baker was treated with reverence and respect. This is evidenced, in particular, by such a fact. In the XVI-XVII centuries, ordinary people were called in everyday life and in official documents by pejorative names - Fedka, Grishka, Mitroshka. The masters of their craft, who were the bakers, were called by their full names - Fedor, Grigory, Dmitry. Sometimes surnames or nicknames were added to the name.
The baker was required not only skill, but also honesty. After all, there were frequent crop failures in the country, the people were starving. In these difficult years, there was a special watch over bakeries, and those who allowed "mixing" or spoiling bread, and even more so speculating on it, were severely punished. In 1624, even a special government instruction appeared: "Memory to bailiffs appointed in Moscow to oversee the baking and sale of bread."
Bogdan Beketov, Dorofei Ivanov, Vasily Artemov were considered the storm of Moscow bakers of that time. They were afraid of them like fire. Everywhere - in the markets, in bakeries, in sacks from buyers - they looked for evidence of the dishonesty of bakers who were "mercenaries": they weighed the bread and checked their quality so that "there was no thick and mixed at all."
The bailiffs had broad powers. They controlled monastery and palace bakeries, visited boyar estates and even the metropolitan court.
True, the instructions demanded absolute honesty and impartiality from the controllers themselves: “You can’t be friends with a friend, but you can’t take revenge on an enemy and promises (bribes. - V.K., N.M.) and commemoration (gifts. - V.K., N .Х1.) to have nothing from anyone.
(It is interesting that representatives of the city community were also involved in monitoring the work of bakers and bakeries. Participation in this matter was considered extremely honorable.)
Well, sometimes, buying a modern loaf of bread in a modern bakery. baked at a modern bakery, one can only regret that those controllers with their out-of-date zeal for fulfilling their duties remained in the distant 17th century ...
The process of baking has been constantly improved, and the range of different types of baked bread has expanded. This was facilitated by the high art of flour-grinding in Russia. So, during the time of Tsar Alexei Mikhailovich, 25 varieties of rye and 30 varieties of wheat flour were produced.
The best Russian dough makers and bakers, mukoseys and kalachniks were so successful in their craft that often the ambassadors of other states sent Russian bread as a special delicacy to European courts.
The main role was still played by rye or, as it was also called "black" bread. It was much cheaper than wheat - "white", and more satisfying. In the preface to the Expenditure Book of the Patriarchal Order on Meals Served to Patriarch Adrian and People of Different Orders from September 1698 to August 1699, it is recorded that the Russians ate mostly rye bread. Actually, the word "bread" meant "rye". Wheat flour was used for prosvir, and at home - for kalachi, which for the common people in general were only a delicacy on holidays. From this, the saying “You can’t lure with a kalach”, that is, the rarest piece.
However, not all rye bread was cheap. So, for baking “boyar” bread, they used special grinding rye flour, fresh butter, not peroxide, but moderately fermented milk, spices were added to the dough. Even a wealthy person could not always ask the price for such bread, so they baked it only on special orders for special occasions.
From flour sifted through a sieve, sieve bread was baked. It was much more tender than sieve bread, baked from flour sifted through a sieve. The so-called "fur" types of bread were considered low-quality. They were baked from wholemeal flour and called "chaff". The best bread, which was served on the table in rich houses, was “grainy” white bread made from well-processed wheat flour.
Hitrov market. Early 20th century
During the period of crop failures, when there were not enough stocks of rye and wheat, all kinds of additives were mixed into the flour: carrots, beets, later potatoes, as well as dana-growing ones: acorns, oak bark, nettles, quinoa, etc. (according to one of the certain Prokhor from Smolensk, in a lean famine year, showed people a method for making a substitute for bread from quinoa, by this he saved himself and his fellow countrymen, which is why he received the nickname "Lebednik").
In the south and southeast of Russia, over time (in the 19th century), wheat crops gradually replaced rye. As a result, the local population began to eat rye-wheat (“gray”) or wheat (“white”) bread. This tradition has been preserved to this day.
At the end of the 19th century, the urban population used to buy bread from the baker who baked it in large quantities and various types. In bakeries and stalls they sold hearth (high thick cakes) and shaped (in the form of a cylinder or brick) bread.
Bakery products were also varied: kalachi, bagels, bagels. pretzels and gingerbread. Many of them were prepared from rich dough, which other cookery did not know. The villagers, as a rule, seldom feasted on them. they usually bought them in the city for a gift to children and did not count them as food. The urban commoners quite widely used all these pastries.
Kalachs have always enjoyed special love in Russia. They appeared very early and already played an important role in ancient Russian life. Kalach was in place at the everyday table of an ordinary citizen and at the magnificent feasts of kings. The king, for example, sent kalachi as a sign of special favor to the patriarch and other persons who had a high spiritual rank.
According to historians, on the birthday of Peter 1, guests of the living room of hundreds of Chernoslobodsk residents, among other dishes, were given 240 crushed rolls. Kalachs were presented to beggars and prisoners on major holidays (of course, these were no longer royal kalachs).
Releasing the servant "on dismissal", the master, as a rule, gave him a small coin "for kalach".
The shape of the rolls was very different. For example, kalachi and bread like a collar were served at the table of Grand Duke Vasily. According to the assumption of A. V. Tereshchenko, the Russians probably borrowed such rolls from the Tatars.
Sukharevka Early 20th century.
Moscow bakers were famous for their excellent bread. I. Filippov was widely known among them.
…Filippovskiye bakeries were always full of customers. Interesting references to them and to Filippov himself were left by V. A. Gilyarovsky in the book “Moscow and Muscovites”. Let's take a look with him at one of these bakeries: “In the far corner, around the hot iron boxes, there was a constant crowd. chewing the famous Philippian fried pies with meat, eggs, rice, mushrooms, cottage cheese, raisins and jam. The audience - from young students to old officials in frieze overcoats and from well-dressed ladies to poorly dressed working women. With good butter, with fresh minced meat, the piglet pie was so good that you could have a hearty breakfast as a couple.
In addition to pies, Filippovskie bakeries became famous for their excellent rolls, baits, and most importantly, brown bread, as contemporaries testify to excellent quality. “The counters and shelves on the left side of the bakery, which had a proper entrance,” continues Gilyarovsky, “were always surrounded by crowds buying pound black bread and sieve bread.” Filippov himself liked to repeat: "A little black bread is the first food for a worker."
Even today, elderly Muscovites remember Filippovsky bread with great respect. Of course, there are almost no people left who once bought this bread. Time has counted down many years since then, but the stories of their grandparents are still alive in the memory of Muscovites.
And here's what's a shame - we didn't save these pies, saek, kalachi, pound black. They left our lives along with those distant times. Today, on the counters of bakeries, their place has been taken by dull loaves, literally stale on the road from the store to the house, tasteless, “bad” loaves of black bread, gingerbread and crackers, which are dangerous to bite, because they are not inferior in hardness to granite. Yes, the quality of bread today does not hold water. And no matter how much we talk about the important role of bread, about the respect it deserves, as long as its quality is low, a chunk will not leave the trash can.
When Filippov was asked why “black bread” is good only with him, he answered: “Because bread loves care. Baking is baking, and all the power is in flour. I don’t have purchased flour, all my own, I buy selected rye on the ground, my people are put in the mills, so that not a speck, not a speck of dust ... But still, rye is different, you have to choose. I have more and more Tambov flour, from under Kozlov, from the Rominsk mill comes the best flour. And very easy!” Indeed, there is nothing complicated, just a person who treated his work with love, knew his price. This, perhaps, is what is lacking today for many of those who feed us with the most important product - bread.
Filippov's bakery products were famous and in great demand not only in Moscow. Kalachi and saiki were sent daily to St. Petersburg to the royal court. In St. Petersburg, they tried to bake them on the spot, but nothing came of it. And Filippov argued that such rolls and baits as needed would not work: “Neva water is not good!”
Convoys with "Filippov products" even went to Siberia. Gilyarovsky recalled: “They were heated in a special way, frozen straight from the oven, transported a thousand miles, and just before eating they thawed - also in a special way, in damp towels - and fragrant, hot kalachi somewhere in Barnaul or Irkutsk were served on the table piping hot."
We cannot help but make one more extract from the remarkable book by V. A. Gilyarovsky. We are talking about a case that almost cost the famous baker the loss of his entire business and at the same time led to the emergence of a new “Philippian product” - saiki with raisins.
... In those days, the sovereign dictator of Moscow was the Governor-General Zakrevsky, "before whom everyone trembled." So, every morning, this general was served hot bacon from Filippov for breakfast.
“What an abomination this is! Bring the baker Filippov here! yelled the lord over morning tea.
The servants, not understanding what was the matter, dragged the frightened Filippov to the authorities.
— Wh-what? Cockroach?! - and sticks a saika with a baked cockroach. - E-tto what ?! BUT?
And it’s very simple, Your Excellency, - the old man turns the pig in front of him.
What-oh?.. What?.. Just?!
This is a highlight!
And ate a piece with a cockroach.
You lie, bastard! Are there raisins with raisins? Go away!
Filippov ran into the bakery at a run, grabbed a sieve of raisins and sieve dough, to the great horror of the bakers, and threw it out.
An hour later, Filippov was treating Zakrevsky with raisins, and a day later there was no end to the buyers.
And very easy! Everything comes out by itself, catch the best, - said Filippov at the mention of raisins with raisins.
That was such an interesting person - the baker Ivan Filippov.
Bread is an extremely valuable food product. Scientists claim that it contains more than 200 different substances useful to humans. Among them, 5-8 percent of vegetable proteins and 40-50 percent of carbohydrates. This means that people who actively include bread in their diet cover a significant part of the body's need for energy and vegetable proteins with its help.
Bread is also rich in the so-called ballast substances (coarse fibers) - fiber and semi-fiber, the benefits of which we talked about above. The coarser the grinding of flour, the more coarse fibers in the bread made from it. The poorest segments of the population used to eat such bread, while the rich preferred sieve bread made from finely ground wheat flour. And they were unaware that coarse bread is healthier.
The fact is that when cleaning flour, such parts of the grain as germs and the top layer go into bran. But it is in them that vitamins and minerals, components that stimulate metabolism, are concentrated in the greatest amount.
One of the first to feed his patients used bread baked from flour with bran, the Swiss hygienist M. Platen. This bread was created at the end of the 19th century by Professor S. Graham. And still in many European countries such bread is called "graham".
We recommend all this to be remembered by those readers who, in an effort to get rid of excess weight, completely excluded bread from their menu. However, this medal has, as they say, a flip side.
The nutritional and energy value of bread depends on the type of grain, flour grade, recipe and cooking technology. It is worth adding fats, milk, sugar, eggs to bread, and its calorie content will grow by leaps and bounds. No words, these additives give bread products a pleasant taste, but they are also hazardous to health if they exceed scientifically based standards.
The abuse of bakery products containing excess fats and sugars is an inevitable path to obesity, diabetes and other diseases. Therefore, scientists and practitioners in the field of bread baking are striving to improve the composition of bread. It is enriched with protein, ballast substances, fortified. There is also a special dietary bread without sugar, bread that does not get stale or moldy for a long time.
Of great importance has always been the external attractiveness of bread, its aroma. According to I. II. Pavlova, bread is a product that "begins to eat with the eyes." Its aromatic "bouquet" consists of about 200 volatile organic compounds. Sometimes, to improve the flavor, some types of bread are baked with the addition of vanillin, cumin, coriander and other substances. Perhaps there is nothing wrong with that. But aromatic additives should not completely clog the natural bread spirit. Sometimes you buy such a re-aromatized loaf, and take offense for those who baked it - it can smell of anything, but not bread.
For those who want to try the bread that was eaten in Russia at the end of the 19th century, here are some of its recipes, taken from Maria Redeli's book "House and Economy", published in 1900.
Black bread
11/2 buckets of rye flour. 1/2 bucket of water, 4 tablespoons of salt.
In the evening, knead the dough. Very dry rye flour is poured into a sourdough, so much water is poured so that a rather thick dough can be kneaded. After salting, the dough is strongly kneaded and, sprinkled with flour on top, put in a warm place so that it rises. The next shadow, the dough is kneaded for half an hour, adding as much flour as necessary for bread, and, having covered the dough, leave it to rise again for 2-2 1/2 hours. Then, having made the loaves, they put them on the table, let them rise again and, having lightly smeared them with warm water, they put them in the oven (the oven will not work for this purpose). Sprinkle flour on a shovel and put one bread at a time. The oven should be very hot and the loaves will bake, depending on the size, 1-2 1/2 hours.
(There is always some dough left in the kneader, which
suitable for fermenting a new one. Who loves sour bread, let him use this leaven.)
When the bread is baked, it is lightly moistened with water. It can be taken out to a cold place only when it has completely cooled down.
The preparation of such bread usually takes
15-20 hours.
Plain white bread
6 spools of yeast (25g) 1 1/2 cups milk 1 tsp salt 1 tbsp butter or ghee 1 lb (400g) flour.
b spools of yeast are stirred into 1 1/2 cups of milk with a little salt, 1 pound of flour is added at once, 1 tablespoon of melted butter is added and, having beaten the dough well, put it in the prepared form, filling it only to 1/3; the dough is allowed to rise so that the shape is
filled up to 3/4. Bread is baked for about an hour, first in a moderate, then in a stronger heat. If you want the bread to be sweet, then 18 spools (about 80 g) of sugar and 4 spools (17 g) of cardamom are added to the dough.
Sitny
bread
6 spools of yeast (25g), 1 1/2 cups milk or water, 1 teaspoon salt, 1 1/2 lb (600g) wheat flour.
6 spools of yeast are stirred together with salt in 11/2 cups of warm milk or warm water, put in 1 pound of wheat flour and allowed to rise. Then so much flour is added there to get a very tough dough, and, having made oblong loaves, they coat them with warm water, letting them rise again beforehand, and bake them first in moderate, then stronger heat for about 3-4 hours.
How many really thought that well-baked wheat bread is one of the greatest inventions of the human mind?
